Cycling Vancouver to Prince Rupert in British Columbia is the opportunity to take in breathtaking landscapes on an unforgettable adventure by bike!
Canada’s most western province is a naturally diverse destination home to dramatic coastlines, mighty mountains and spellbinding lakes.
Having already completed Calgary to Vancouver in the spring of 2024, solo cyclist Isobel Duxfield set her sights on exploring more of British Columbia. This inspiring loop ride includes the stunning Vancouver Island, as well as the iconic mountain resort of Whistler.
Read on to discover Isobel’s epic 2,000 kilometre ride…
All metrics in this article are approximate.
An overview of cycling Vancouver to Prince Edward
Many tourists flock to British Columbia to explore this stunning province by motor-vehicle, whizzing around in colossal campervans (often bigger than a London flat!).
But if you really want to see the beauty of British Columbia, you need to do it by bike.
The best of British Columbia
Cycling from Vancouver to Prince Rupert and back again, this route takes in the best that British Columbia has to offer.
From the shores of the Howe Sounds that are home to glacial waters and majestic fjords, to Whistler’s snow-capped peaks and Vancouver Island, this 2,000 kilometre route is packed with natural wonders.
The journey has it all: mountains, rivers, forests and lakes… all of which can often be seen in a single day. Following highways and smaller gravel roads, as well as spectacular ferry crossings, you witness Canada from all angles.
Vancouver
My cycling route starts and finishes in the bustling city of Vancouver.
The city’s easy access via ferry to Vancouver Island make it a great base for a cycling tour of the region. Its many coffee shops and the beautiful Stanley Park Seawall bike route (a popular ride in the city) also make it a great place for visiting cyclists!
In recent years, the city has seen lots of investment in cycling. This includes the development of many bike lanes in Vancouver, as well as places to rent bikes.
Find out more about cycling Vancouver here.
Cycling British Columbia’s mountains
After leaving Vancouver, the route heads through the legendary mountain resorts of Squamish and Whistler, over the mountains to Highway 97 and further north to Prince George.
Cycling along the Howe Sounds is a wonderful experience, with mountains around you, and the water on your left. The road is pretty busy, but it is manageable.
Whistler is an incredibly busy ski and mountain biking town, home to many Brits and Aussies conducting seasonal work. You are more likely to hear a British accent than a Canadian one!
Top tip! Whistler has dramatically improved their cycling infrastructure in recent years, so you can virtually pedal through the town without setting a wheel on the main road. Due to the popularity of the town with tourists, I would suggest against trying to stay here, unless you would like to spend a few days on the mountain biking trails, as you will probably be paying far more than usual for a campsite or hotel.
Beautiful lakes
You’ll encounter many stunning lakes on this cycle route!
They are perfect places to have a refreshing dip in, especially if you plan to take on the ride in the middle of summer.
Many of my favourite camping spots were also beside these lakes. Highlights include Lake Duffey, Seton Lake and Kelly Lake.
Ferry crossings
From Prince Rupert, you jump on a boat, for a spectacular ferry journey to Port Hardy at the north of Vancouver Island.
The journey is a full day of around 16 hours. You board at 7am, and don’t dock in Port Hardy until gone midnight. This makes it pretty tricky for cyclists who need to navigate the dark road towards the town, but there is a campsite about 20 minutes away which I found was useful.
While aboard you see the best of the BC coastline! This includes complete wilderness areas, inhabited by very few people. If you are lucky, you may also see Orcas, which are incredibly elegant creatures.
The later coastal sections of this cycle route also have several additional ferry crossings to navigate.
See below for tips on navigating the ferries by bike.
Cycling Vancouver Island
Vancouver Island is quite a different experience as there are many more smaller roads which make for wonderful cycling.
Unlike the mainland, you do not necessarily need to follow the highway, you can take far more scenic routes.
There are also a range of dedicated bike routes such as the Galloping Goose Trail (which takes you into Victoria). You are never too far from the ocean, which is pretty important in the Canadian summer heat!
What to expect cycling in British Columbia (BC)
Prepare for a very different experience to cycling in Europe!
If you are typically used to European cycling holidays, where most tours traverse winding country roads that link up cafés and stores every few kilometres, cycling British Columbia feels vastly different.
Be aware! It’s essential to spend time planning in order to make the most of cycling in this wild and remote corner of Canada.
Distance between services
Typically, there are 50 to 100 kilometres between stops.
In fact, with nowhere to stop, I often found myself crouching under a tree on the side of the road, desperate for what little shade I could locate.
Top tip! You will need to carry enough water for at least several hours (if not a full day) in many sections, and adequate food supplies.
As you near the south of Vancouver Island, the distance between urban areas reduces substantially and locating supplies is far easier.
Highways
Be aware! There are very few alternatives between major highways and gravel logging roads when cycling in British Columbia. Cycling this route therefore demands careful planning and caution.
The first few hundred kilometres are quite traffic heavy (due to the popularity of the area with tourists).
Be aware! Trucks can also thunder by pretty close to you. Although cyclists are afforded a decent hard shoulder, you must be incredibly confident cycling in traffic and around motor vehicles to complete this route. For those who have cycled around cities like London, and are accustomed to remaining vigilant around large vehicles, you should be fine.
After Whistler the road becomes far calmer.
Extreme temperatures
The weather in British Columbia can make the cycling more challenging. I completed this cycling route in the height of summer and experienced temperatures that exceeded 35 degrees Celsius.
These high temperatures can also lead to wildfires. See below for more information on this.
In comparison, temperatures can dip to a bone chilling -35 degrees in the winter.
Top tip! Take care when planning your cycling trip and pack and prepare accordingly.
My Canada cycling itinerary
This route took three weeks in total, with two days rest.
Having cycled solo from Calgary to Vancouver, this time I was joined by my partner, which made for a less solitary experience. But it also meant I had to learn to make compromises and adapt in ways which I had not had to do alone! Keep scrolling to discover my Canada cycling itinerary…
Section 1: Vancouver to Lilloet
Distance
250 kilometres
Duration
3 days
Summary
A scenic road taking you from the coast to the snowcapped mountains, including cycling Whistler
Notes
I split this section of the cycle route up into three days, stopping in Squamish, Pemberton and Lilloet.
Leaving Vancouver, the first part of the route takes place on the Sea to Sky Highway. Cycling along this scenic coastal highway, you take in Howe Sounds and ride past pine forests.
After the town of Squamish, you continue up through the famous ski resort of Whistler. After Pemberton, the route then heads over a steep mountain pass of approximately 1,300 kilometres of elevation.
Once past stunning Duffey Lake, it’s a fairly steady descent down to the town of Lilloet.
Be aware! The first few hundred kilometres are quite traffic heavy (due to the popularity of the area with tourists). After cycling in Whistler the road becomes far calmer.
Points of interest
Be sure to stop off at the beautiful swimming spots on the way including Porteau Cove, Alta Lake, Green Lake, Duffey Lake and Seton Lake. If the temperatures are as high as when I completed this trip in July (a sweltering 39 degrees on some days), a dip in the water will be your saving grace!
Squamish is a good base for an evening, with lots of accommodation options and places to find supplies.
The popular mountain resort of Whistler is worth checking out if you have time. There’s lots of shops and cafés.
Section 2: Lilloet to Prince George
Distance
Approx 500-530 kilometres (depending on detours taken)
Duration
3 days
Summary
Gravel hills and lakeside detours
Notes
The second section follows highway 99 and joins highway 97, however, unlike the previous few days, there are a range of options for leaving the main road for quieter (and perhaps more scenic) alternatives.
It begins with an arduous uphill battle, which is not for the faint hearted, and involves climbing out of Lilloet and along the side of the valley.
Detour to Kelly Lake
At Pavillion, you have two choices, either a gravel mountain road which snakes up an additional 700 metres of elevation. Or you can take the valley road which passes Pavillion lake. It’s a longer but far less physically demanding option.
If opting for the first route, you will pass Kelly lake, where a beautiful campground is a wonderful place to spend the night. The second will probably mean continuing to Clinton to find accommodation (there are several campsites or hotels).
Detour to Green Lake
From here, carry on through Clinton to 70 Mile House, where you can take a side route past Green Lake (which I advise), or continue to 100 Mile House along the highway (the less scenic, but more direct, route).
At 100 Mile House, the first option is continuing directly along the highway to Williams Lake; however, there is an alternative gravel route along Helena Lake road for the first half. Although it is a beautiful gravel road, beware the first section is strenuous, and bear spray is essential here.
After a wonderful cruise downhill into Williams Lake (lots of accommodation options here), I took the back route towards Soda Creek and along the Fraser river to Quesnel. Again, this is more strenuous, with a steep gravel section, but you will be rewarded by spectacular views.
The final stretch
From Quesnel, it is approximately 125 kilometres to Prince George.
This is a long stretch for a single day, but there are relatively few large climbs, so it is possible even for slower riders. There is a single place to stop at Hixon (around 60 kilometres from Quesnel).
Be aware! At Kelly Lake there is no running water, despite the campground website stating this as an amenity (I had to ask a kind local resident for water).
Points of interest
- I stayed at Robert’s Roost Campsite, just out of Quesnel. This was a lovely small facility adjacent to Dragon Lake.
- The Roadside Donair at Hixon serves incredible fries, floats, ice creams and burgers (opt for the large at your own risk!).
Section 3: Prince George to Prince Rupert
Distance
720 kilometres
Duration
6 days + 1 rest day
Summary
The mountains return!
Notes
From Prince George you now hit Highway 16.
This section is relatively flat, with one medium sized hill (around 350 metres elevation) just before Smithers, after which you sail downhill towards Terrace and Prince Rupert following the river.
There are several places to camp along the route, but little in the way of food and water. Make sure you stop at places like Vanderhoof, Smithers and Hazelton to resupply!
As you near Prince Rupert at the end of Highway 16, the traffic drops and the highway is far calmer, and a far more spectacular experience.
By Smithers, you have reached the river which you will follow all the way to the ocean. The river winds through a beautiful forested valley with the undulating road beside it.
The scenic road to Terrace
Perhaps the best section is the final 150 kilometres from Terrace to Prince Rupert, where the road flattens out and you pedal alongside the river, with huge mountains looming above and stunning waterfalls crashing down the hillsides.
However, beware, the wind coming from the west which can make this section incredibly arduous.
Be aware!
- Although the initial section from Prince George can be traffic heavy, this drops off slowly as you cycle further towards Prince Rupert. However, the logging trucks can be somewhat threatening as they thunder past, often on sections where the shoulder is narrow and pot-holed. Cycle with care.
- The Highway 16 road gained infamy following the disappearance of several First Nation women who were hitchhiking here. There are many signs warning of the need for safety and calling for action. It is worth reading around this topic to understand some of the traumas these communities have suffered, and their response, as this will provide a better understanding of the places and people you will pass. See more information below.
Places of interest
There are many good places to stop to swim along Highway 16, including Burns Lake and Seely Lake (both of which have campgrounds adjacent to them).
Section 4: Port Hardy to Vancouver
Distance
550 kilometres
Duration
4 days (the last day was a big 185 kilometre day)
Summary
Cycling around Vancouver Island
Notes
From the ferry port, take Highway 19 down through Port McNeil, Woss, Campbell River and Courtney.
East coast of Vancouver Island
From Courtenay/Comox you have two options. The first is to continue directly down the east of Vancouver Island, past Nanaimo, Duncan and Victoria, where you can take the final ferry from Swartz Bay to Tsawwassen Terminal.
This option is a lovely route, with quieter side roads available almost all the way, and thus little need for taking the busy highway.
Alternative cycle route
From Courtenay you could instead take the ferry to Powel River back on the Canadian mainland and then and cycle on to Saltery Bay.
An additional ferry takes you on to Earl’s Cove, and continuing along the Sunshine Coast, you will pass some incredible coves which are one of the reasons British Columbia’s coastline is so attractive to tourists.
On this route you return to Vancouver via the Langdale-Horseshoe Bay ferry.
On both options there are plenty of camping, hostel and hotel options.
Be aware!
The Ferry arrives at Bear Cove (around 10 kilometres from Port Hardy) at 11:30pm. This makes it quite a nuisance to find suitable accommodation. However, the Port Hardy RV resort is around 15 minute cycle from the ferry terminal and offers camping.
Points of interest
- Victoria’s cycle lanes are incredible and if you are prepared to take the longer route down to the city before continuing up via the Galloping Goose cycle trail to Swartz Bay, it is worth the additional miles.
- While Google maps may direct you to Victoria along the highway from Duncan to Victoria, I would take the side roads past Cowichan Bay to Mill Bay. Then the 25 minute ferry journey to Brentwood Bay.
Top tips for planning your British Columbia cycling trip
Best time to cycle
To avoid the extreme heat I encountered, I would suggest early Autumn, when the main tourist traffic will have subsided too.
However, cycling in summer means longer days to tackle the big distances. between inhabited areas. You can take your time with these knowing there is more daylight hours to squeeze miles into.
Essential services
As mentioned already, this is a remote region and there are limited places for refuelling and finding places to stay.
Here is a list of the main places I encountered for locating essentials like food, accommodation or bike maintenance:
- Squamish (large stores, camping, hostel)
- Whistler (large stores, camping, hostels, hotels)
- Pemberton (hotel, stores)
- Lilloet (hotel, camping, large stores)
- Clinton (hotel, camping, stores)
- 100 Mile House (hotel, camping, large stores)
- Williams Lake (hotel, camping, large stores)
- Quesnel (hotel, camping, large stores)
- Prince George (hotel, hostel, camping, large stores)
- Vanderhoof (hotel, camping, stores)
- Burns Lake (free camping, stores, hotel/motel)
- Smithers (camping, hotel, large stores)
- Hazelton (camping, stores)
- Terrace (camping, hotel, large stores)
- Prince Rupert (camping, hotel, hostel, large stores)
- Port Hardy (camping, motel, cabins)
- Port McNeil (camping, hotel, hostel, large stores)
- Campbell River (camping, hotel, hostel, large stores)
- Courtney (camping, hotel, hostel, large stores)
- Parksville (camping, hotel, hostel, large stores)
- Nanaimo (camping, hotel, hostel, large stores)
- Ladysmith (large stores)
- Duncan (hotel, camping, large stores)
- Mill Bay (camping, large stores)
- Victoria (camping, hotel, hostel, large stores)
Check out this article for more information about how to prepare for long distance bike rides.
Wildfires
Be aware! In the hot summer conditions, you need to keep an eye on wildfires.
The Canadian government has a very useful website where you can track the scale and trajectory of wildfires. I would suggest keeping an eye on this in areas particularly around Lilloet and Smithers.
These fires can quickly rip through the countryside and may cause closure on the highways for several days. They also pose a serious health and safety risk.
However, do not let this deter you. The views are spectacular and the people you meet along the way provide constant conversation and encouragement; the rumours are indeed true – Canadians are just really nice!
Navigating the ferry by bike
This route requires taking several ferries. Although these are easy to access and book, they do require a bit of advance planning.
Bicycle perks
The good news is that bikes go free on ferries! Yet another reason to ditch the camper van for pedal power…
Limited departures
Be aware! The ferry from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy departs every two days, so ensure you check ahead of schedule.
It is probably necessary to book during peak tourist periods when demand is high. The views from this voyage are probably some of the best you will see in British Columbia. More on that above.
For all ferry timetables, see here.
Arrive early
I didn’t book any of the other additional ferries in advance and found no issues with availability. However I would suggest arriving at least 15 minutes ahead of departure to alleviate any stress.
As a cyclist, you do not need to arrive so far ahead of time, as motorists do. Whilst a driver needs to get there 90 minutes ahead of departure, cyclists can give themselves a bit more flexibility!
The other ferry routes on this route include:
- Comox-Powel river
- Mill Bay-Brentwood Bay
- Swartz Bay- Tsawwassen
Camping
Top tip! Given the distance between urban areas, it is far easier, if not essential, to bring a tent with you when cycling this route.
In good weather, camping offers some of the most scenic places to rest your head, often overlooking beautiful mountain ridges or picturesque lakes.
Like many things in Canada, camping can be on the pricey side. They are usually around 30-40 Canadian dollars for a commercial campsite.
Budget friendly campsites
For those on more of a budget (like myself) the good news is there are many low cost provincial parks and even free municipal campgrounds along the way.
Be aware! These are pretty basic. There are usually no showers and often no running water. However, they offer a picnic bench, a compost toilet and a shady place to pitch your tent.
Some of my favourite low cost and free sites were:
- Kelly Lake: this campground has 14 sites which have a table and fire pit, as well as two very clean toilet cubicles. The picnic site 50 metres down the road is wonderful for swimming and eating. You will need to have your own water supply though.
- Burns Lake Municipal campground: mid way along highway 16, Burns Lake hosts a free campground next to the lake. It has washrooms (which close in the evening and morning so beware), and the recreation centre next door offers showers.
- Kitwanga municipal campground: this is a free campground run by local volunteers in a lovely shady spot about four kilometres off the highway in the village of Kitwanga. It is next to a General Store (ask them for water as there is none at the site), and the other people there were super nice people! A great site for cycle tourers.
- Elk Creek recreation site: between Port McNeil and Campbell River, this free site is located in a lovely wooded area, each site with its own picnic table and fire pit.
First Nations in British Columbia
I suggest reading up on the experiences and politics of the First Nations in British Columbia before you visit.
Whilst cycling on Highway 16 you will pass through many of the First Nations Territories. Many are currently sites of dispute between these communities and the Canadian government amidst plans for gas pipelines and wider discussions about reparations.
I met many indigenous individuals who discussed their efforts to trace their family lineage as part of building their claims to the land. There are also many heritage museums and sites along the way which will also help you understand these issues.
I recommend a documentary titled, ‘Yintah’, which explores the dispute of one village located along Highway 16.
Packing essentials
A water filter is vital to ensure you can collect water from natural sources. This is often the only means of hydration.
A high viz jacket may also be useful if cycling at dawn or dusk along the highways!
Check out this packing essentials article for bike touring for more information.
Highway Code and travel information
It’s always a good idea to check current travel information before you book and travel. Take a look at the UK Government’s travel information pages for Canada here.
You should also read and follow each of the country’s highway codes.
Final thoughts on this Canada biking tour
Thanks to Isobel for sharing this inspiring Canada cycling itinerary through British Columbia. We certainly feel inspired to discover this Canadian destinations natural beauty by bike!
Want to read more articles from Isobel? Take a look at Isobel’s Calgary to Vancouver route, or read her solo cycling tips.
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