Cycling Poland’s Masurian Lake District + Green Velo: bike tour itinerary + tips

Points of interest

• The Old City / Długi Targ  is busy but worth exploring. Take a stroll along the Long Market and adjacent Long Street, which known as the Royal Way. It’s home to stunning buildings and a Neptune Statue, as well as countless restaurants and bars.
• Gaze in awe at the biggest brick church in the world, St Mary’s.  From there head down the spellbinding Mariacka Street for some old world charm! You can also link in a river walk along Długie Pobrzeże. You really can’t go wrong in the Old City.
•  The World War Two museum  is a very well laid out modern building and a great learning experience. Book in advance as there are daily limits! A really rewarding and humbling experience.
• Pułapka Craft Beer & Pizza has delicious craft beer and pizza in the centre of Gdansk with outdoor seating. It’s my favourite place for a sour in Gdansk!

Where to stay in Gdansk

The Amber Hotel

A fantastic hotel for cyclists that is a 20-minute walk from the city. They have lots of conference facilities which they were happy for me to use as storage space for my bike. The hotel has an amazing restaurant and buffet breakfast.

There is a Trek main dealer round the corner should you need any help with your bike. I always pop in for a chat and buy new water bottles before my trip begins!

Notes

Don’t expect to get out of Gdansk quickly. It’s always busy! However, there are cycle lanes to guide you out of the bustle and onto the quieter suburban roads.

You will cross a branch of the Vistua on the ‘100th Anniversary Bridge’ with the Gdansk cityscape to the distant left.

For the next couple of hours, it’s a mixture of dedicated cycle lanes, undulating back roads, deserted beaches (yes!) and countryside trails. These are punctuated by a short ferry ride over the Vistula proper.

Be aware! The Baltic Coast Road can be busy, especially around Stegna.

At the picturesque Tolkmicko you meet Poland’s Green Velo trail and a testing forest climb. Time to engage those low gears for the first time; climbing to Chojnowo, then onto a downhill gravel section that is well signposted to the 504 and Frombork.

At Frombork, pick up the Green Velo trail skirting the gorgeous shimmering Vistula Lagoon to Nowa Pasłęka and onto Braniewo.

Points of interest

• Frombork was the home of the astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus. It has a stunning Cathedral and Basilica.
• The ferry ride over the Vistula. Always packed with cyclists and a good place to have a chat with fellow travellers.

Where I stayed in Braniewo

Pałacyk Potockiego Pokoje i Apartamenty

This is a brand new development with a keycode entry. It’s just a five-minute walk to the main street. They were happy for me to keep my bike in the room. They do great scrambled eggs for breakfast.

Braniewianka Restaurant serves fantastic food. Not a single word of English was spoken by the staff when I was there. Welcome to Poland!

Notes

Be aware: John didn’t actually cycle the GPS route included above on his trip. His original route went over the border into Kaliningrad, an exclave of Russia. Due to the political situation as of 19 July, 2024, we have suggested an alternative option for day 2. 

From the hotel head north east, behind the football ground and take the footbridge over the River Palseka and join the 507. Head east out of town along the 507 towards Lipowina.

Over the last few years there has been a lot of resurfacing work, and one year I even found myself talking to a project manager who used to work in Marks and Spencer in Middlesbrough.

Although not the most picturesque, the route to Miłakowo crisscrosses’ agricultural landscapes on B roads. You can often spot soaring buzzards, as well as red and white deer.

The small town of Orneta is a nice place to get a coffee. The Town Square is dominated by the gothic city hall.

Points of interest

• The town of Pieniężno is a great place for a pit stop. Castle ruins and the Church of St Peter and St Paul add to the attraction.
• Orneta town hall and square.

Places to eat and drink

• Have a coffee and ice cream at Lody nad Wałszą
• More coffee and ice cream can be found at Słodka Italia

Where I stayed in Miłakowo

I stayed with friends in this small town. However, I would recommend Orneta town as a good base for the night.

Notes

A brilliant day of cycling awaits!

Back up to Orneta, you head east through this charming town and pick up the old mineral line cycling path to the town of Lidzbark Warmiński.

Although a little bit boggy and overgrown at the start, the path soon breaks into hard-pack and fast rolling gravel trails. You cycle through beautiful rolling countryside and stunning forest trails.

Be aware! There are multiple routes through the forest that can be hard to fathom. A local cyclist took me to where I wanted to go (and we both went the wrong way…).

Entering Lidzbark Warmiński, you ride on a cycle path that meanders with the River Łyna through sculptured gardens and historical buildings.

The 51 takes you to Bartoszyce. It’s not pretty and can be busy but rolls very well. Take the paving road option though the towns dotted along the route.

Bustling Bartoszyce has a great town square with plenty of bars and restaurants to kick back and relax into the evening.

Points of interest

• The town of Lidzbark Warmiński is worth spending some time in.
• On the approach road there is a lovely ice cream parlour with a huge terrace and deckchairs. Find out more here.

Places to eat and drink

• In Bartoszyce square these are my two favourite places to eat and drink: Kraftowy Browar & Tapas and the Kwadratoova Cocktail Bar. In the latter, I had a black-pudding lasagna. It was amazing!
• There is a really cool rock pub near the train station in Bartoszyce, a 10-minute walk from the square. Check online if you fancy seeing some live music when you’re in town.

Where to stay in Bartoszyce

Hotel Bartis

Situated on the square and very bike friendly.

Notes

Top tip! It’s worthwhile leaving Bartoszyce early. The boneshaking journey south-east on Poland’s Green Velo is a contender for the most-road-surfaces-on-a-bike-ride world record.

Once rejoining the 592 you can put the hammer down and make up for lost time. I did this ride on a Sunday, and the petrol stations became my best friend for snacking and a coffee.

Kętrzyn was a ghost town.

Once through the town you pick up signs for the Wilczy Szaniec – The Wolf’s Lair. Bike parking at the historical attraction was plentiful.

Back on the bike, it’s time for an off-road section on heavily sanded forest tracks.

At the village of Kronowo you are more or less back on the tourist route trails with welcoming signs of agrotourism and recreational cycling.

It isn’t long before you’re bisecting Lakes Kisajno and Niegocin on an isthmus (a narrow strip of land that connects two larger landmasses and separates bodies of water). You then hop over the 59 and follow the well signposted bike path into Giżycko. This is a fantastic active lakeside town and well worth a longer stop-over if you have time.

Points of interest

• Hearing the gorgeous Golden Orioles fluty calls along the Green Velo.
• The Wolf’s Lair is an absolute must. It really is mesmerising even self-guided (the estimated group trip around the park takes four hours).

Places to eat and drink

• Treat yourself to a mouthwatering steak at Steakownia. The staff spoke excellent English and it was great value food.
• Pod Pretekstem is a great place for a beer. It is very popular with cyclists and has an outdoor terrace, just 50 yards from the steakhouse.

Where to stay in Giżycko

Hotel Masovia

Just a short walk to the shore, restaurants and bars. They have a fantastic breakfast.

Notes

Be aware: today’s route takes you to Goldap, which is close to the border with Kaliningrad, an exclave of Russia. For anyone wishing to avoid cycling here and stop earlier in the route, there is a lovely looking farm stay just north east of Grabowo on 650 to Goldap called Cicha Dolina.

The morning starts by heading north-east along the shores of Jezioro Brożówka and Lake Gołdapiowo, another isthmus. The quiet roads barely see any traffic.

You will pick up a Green Velo gravel section at Banie Mazurskie and head east onto the 650 into Gołdap. Carry on to Lake Gołdap and the visitors centre. This stunning lake stretches into Kaliningrad (Russia).

Take it all in with a coffee on the foreshore, before heading back into Gołdap town square.

Points of interest

• The unique and fascinating ecological park and wellness spa.
• Enjoy a coffee on swing-beds and oversized sofas overlooking the lake. If you don’t fall asleep have a round of mini golf on the beautiful links course.

Places to eat and drink

• In the village of Jeziorowskie there is a shop in an elevated position with picnic tables overlooking Lake Gołdapiowo. It’s very picturesque.
• The Gołdap Water-Tower serves nice coffee with amazing views.

Where to stay in Gołdap

Parkova Restaurant and Hotel

A superb place to stay with outstanding food and a lovely terrace on the square. There are not many rooms so book in early!

Notes

Coming out of Gołdap on the 650, if there’s no headwind it’s a fast, rolling, lumpy ride south.

With little traffic on the 650, I didn’t take the option of a five kilometre Green Velo section near Grabowo.

Turning into the Borecka Forest is the start of a magical ride. I found a real connection with nature cycling through the forest.

Cruising though the villages Czerwony Dwór and Czerwony Dwór another isthmus splices the Lake Szwałk and you’re in complete harmony. The road surface does become a slight concern, but never enough to spoil a magical ride.

Road conditions improve and you continue to make good progress though Dunajek and Świętajno, flanking lakes Muliste, Świętajno and Dworackie. After this there’s a quick section to Krzywe and a gorgeous climb and descent onto the shores of Lake Łaśmiady. I doubt there’s a better 50 kilometres on the entire trip.

The 65 into Ełk isn’t pretty and it’s a largely forgettable five kilometres to the city. After this you’ll find dedicated cycle paths and the welcoming shore of Lake Ełk.

Points of interest

• The remoteness of the Borecka Forest.
• The cobbled climb into Krzywe and descent onto Lake Jezioro Między Wierszami.

Places to eat and drink

• Don’t miss this fantastic restaurant with chilled atmosphere on the foreshore. Unreal fish soup!

Where to stay in Ełk

Hotel Rydzewski

Large centrally located hotel. Has an excellent breakfast.

Notes

Nb: You’ll notice a couple of dead end turn off’s on John’s GPS route for this day. These roads ended in sand pits that couldn’t be cycled and caused him to turnaround. 

Take note! The dreaded ‘road closed’ signs were up at Chruściele. Thankfully the construction team were happy for me to rattle along behind an HGV.

A climb along the edge of wheat crop fields brings you out on the 667. The tarmac is welcome relief past Lake Bajtkowo. You can rapidly progress to Drygały.

Be aware! The road west from Drygały to Ruda and Łupki along the shore of Lake Roś was unrideable. Despite my best attempts I was simply slicing through the sand to a standstill. This route was meant to completely bypass the 58 to Pisz, but it wasn’t meant to be.

Back on the 667 to Biała Piska and west along the very busy 58 to Pisz.

Top tip! Mercifully, hard shoulders allow you to drop in and allow HGVs to pass. But it’s a challenging 14 kilometres…

Once through Pisz you are rewarded with a popular forest ride on dedicated cycle lanes and tarmac past the popular Lake Nidzkie. There are always plenty of obstacles to overcome in these remote forests, including sand traps at Karpa and local wildlife (I encountered a farmer with his herd of cows.)

Avoiding the 53 to Szczytno, you’ll cycle a quiet road through countryside and farming communities. This eventually turns into a cycle path and takes you into the town centre and onto the shores of lakes Domowe Małe and Długie.

Points of interest

• Southwest of Pisz, cycling through calm forests and countryside.

Places to eat and drink

• Pizzeria Toscana, enjoy a drink on the terrace and great pizzas.
• Miód Malina is a great place to enjoy a coffee and ice-cream by the lake.

Where to stay in Szczytno

Hotelik Maria

Excellent value. There’s no restaurant but it’s just a short walk to the centre and amenities.

Notes

The day starts on route 58 from Szczytno and takes you on a picturesque rolling road through the Jedwabno Nature Reserve and the surrounding countryside.

Catch the wind right and it’s a quick ride to the town of Nidzica. From Nidzica it’s a steady climb west that can be quite sapping.

Have a break at the Circle K Services at Uzdowo. Quiet roads through Myślęta on the arrow straight cycle path.

At Gralewo-Stacja, the quicker option over the train lines has now been blocked off. So head to Żabiny and Koszelewy. Then cycle through the Welski Landscape Park to Lidzbark (a different Lidzbark).

Take the 544 west on a fast-rolling, undulating road with little traffic to Bartniczka. The 544 has a nice vista. At Bartniczka take the road south.

Finish the day with a gentle six kilometre climb to the charming town of Górzno and beautiful Lake Górznieńskie.

Points of interest

• Gorzno and Lake Górznieńskie. This is a really beautiful part of Poland. It’s very popular with hikers, cyclists, bird-spotters and kayakers. A great place to spend some time.
• Places to eat and drink.
• Stacja Paliw LOTOS – yes, I’m marking a petrol station as a highlight. It was a great place to shelter from storms. It has a small outdoor picnic area andstaff were friendly.
• Just outside of Lidzbark, the campsite on the shores of Lake Piaseczno has a great coffee shop and bar. There’s a great atmosphere.

Where to stay in Górzno

Hotel Dworek Wapionka

A stunning hotel and complex on the shores of Lake Górznieńskie. Huge rooms and an excellent bar. Breakfast can be savoured on the sandy shore of Lake Górznieńskie. Just wow!

Notes

The day starts with a steep climb out of Górzno. You will enjoy quiet, newly laid roads and bike lanes to Brodnica.

Busy Brodnica has a nice town square with lots of amenities. On this occasion, it was a bike repair shop I needed to replace my bottom bracket.

Heading north-west out of Brodnica, the roads are very quiet and pass through tranquil villages and farmsteads. There are impressive churches and occasional convenience stores, should you need a refuel.

At Rywałd, you pick up the 543 east to Radzyń Chełmiński. The traffic is noticeably busier as you approach the historic town that’s home to an amazing Teutonic Castle.

Head north on the 534 but avoid the busy traffic by taking a left at Nowy Dwór and head towards Plemięta.

The quiet roads lead to a really rough track strewn with masonry – borderline get off and walk – but it doesn’t last long and soon it’s a newly laid road and back on the 534 to Grudziądz.

Points of interest

• Grudziadz is a truly unique city on the banks of the Vistula. It’s a real hidden gem! There are Teutonic castle remains, ancient granaries, imposing city walls and a charming old town.
• The Teutonic castle at Radzyn Chełmiński is well worth a visit.

Places to eat and drink

• Loft Grudziądz have fantastic authentic regional food. If you are a meat eater I recommend trying the lamb.
• Grudziądz Fado Café is an ultra-cool bar with great chill out vibes – a must for a post ride drink.

Additional information

• Wheel Brothers Mountain Bike Team helped me to navigate Grudziadz during a national cycle event! They were super friendly.

Where to stay in Grudziądz

Ibis Styles Grudziadz

Situated on the edge of the busy town, but only 10 minutes to the shops and bars. A brand-new hotel, with an excellent restaurant, bar and breakfast.

Notes

Be aware! There is a path yards from the Vistula River, but it’s more suitable for hiking than cycling, so it’s best to stick to the quiet, flat roads.

At around 40 kilometres you can cross the Vistula at Korzeniewo. There is a small port, historical landmarks and good cycling infrastructure. It’s a nice place to rest before crossing the river.

Once over the river, take an immediate right and follow the opposite riverbank north. There is a noticeable gradient at Jaźwiska which warms things up a little and it’s then a straight line over the River Wierzyca and into Gniew.

Gniew is often described as a ‘living history’. It flourished under Teutonic rule and was a significant town on the Vistula.

Points of interest

• Gniew Town Square.

Places to eat and drink

• Restauracja CK Pizza: Great pizza and has a bar with an outside terrace at the rear.

Where to stay in Gniew

Hotel Gniew Castle

Notes

You start the day by heading west on the 234. You take a right towards Brody Pomorskie on quiet residential road north.

The road soon breaks up to a lovely gravel section before rejoining the 230 road to Pelpin.

Overhead you can often see buzzards. The gravel track has a lovely sense of solitude.

Pelpin has one of the finest collections of medieval art in Poland and the gothic Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption is well worth a visit.

Heading west, a dedicated cycle lane guides you out of town before you rejoin the main carriageway of the 229 at Ropuchy. You then hop back onto the cycle lane after a few hundred metres.

The popular cycle lane takes you right into the heart of Starogard Gdański, your base for the evening.

Points of interest

• Pelpin Cathedral Basilica. It’s a spectacular building and one of the largest churches in Poland.
• Sobiekski Vodka Distillery: Located in the city of Starogard Gdański. It’s the world’s oldest and still functional vodka distillery.

Places to eat and drink

• Słodka Dziupla: Brilliant ice-cream shop and terrace, or have a beer.
• Bar USTA USTA: Ultra-hip and cool place for a beer. Friendly staff and locals.
• Restauracja BROWAR Rynek: Fantastic food and a great atmosphere. Definitely a little bit special.

Where to stay in Starogard

Gdański Hotel Ren

One of my favourite places to stay on the trip. Fantastic restaurant and on-site micro brewery. There’s also a woodburning pizza oven.

Notes

Head north on the 222 on the dedicated cycle lane to Skarszewy. After this you then head north-east to Kamierowo and past a quarry. Be aware! It can be busy with HGVs.

Join the 222 at Gołębiewko; this is the busiest section of the route in terms of carriageway cycling with busy traffic. A dedicated cycle path offers relief just as you turn off at Żuława.

It’s slow progress over rutted ground, before joining Żmijewo where a quiet tarmac road to Pręgowo awaits. From Pregowo it’s north to Kolbudy and a chance to refuel at the small shopping precinct in the village centre, before the ascent to Linska.

There are plenty of flat sections and the option of a pavement to keep off the main road, but it is always quiet. At Linska, you side-step over the National 7 and climb again to Pępowo on quiet roads and brand-new cycle paths en route to Banino.

Shortly after Banino there are heavy public works resembling excavations from Quatermass and The Pit; rattling over the building site brings you to the to the calmness of Tuchom.

Consecutive zig-zagging north and you pass over the S6 National Road on a brand new section only just completed. At Koleczkowo you are back climbing on a route very popular with club rides. Take a left and prepare for a thunderous seven kilometre downhill into Janowo.

Cycle paths will take you through the busy streets as you head north-east towards the Baltic.

A short ride to Rewa on the Gulf of Gdansk is all that’s left to cycle today.

Places to eat and drink

• Smażalnia Ryb Przy Molo: Excellent fish and chips in Rewa Kropek Piekarnia Cukiernia.

Points of interest

• The downhill section at Łężyce.
• If you’ve got time spend a few minutes on the shores of quaint Mechelinki, before your final stretch of the day.

Where to stay in Rewa

Na Fali

Key-code entry and excellent communications. Comfy rooms and shared lounge.

Notes

The morning starts with a well signposted and busy cycle route around the bay to Hel.

There’s no rush, in fact you can’t as it’s often that busy. There’s a fun almost technical section through a forest and nature reserve.

Top tip! There is a route on the beach but probably best left to the hikers…

As you reach the unpronounceable Władysławowo and turn east, you join a seemingly endless convoy of cyclists and pedestrians on the dual use path. Be aware! Overtaking can be a problem. Enjoy the last 30 kilometres with all the other cyclists in the peloton.

All that remains is the ferry ride from Hel back to Gdansk to complete the loop. If you happen to pick a day with strong winds to cycle it really is the devil’s work…

Fun fact

The local bus service along the peninsula was the 666, however local religious groups protested due to its association with the number of the beast and in 2023 it was changed to the 669. Welcome to Hel!

Points of interest

• Hel is a vibrant historic port town that’s packed with bars and restaurants. It’s well worth a few days stay.
• The Ferry from Hel to Gdansk. End the trip in style on the charming ferry back to the mainland. It’s cash only on board and takes a couple of hours to cross the bay. Get your ticket the day before, or even before you travel from the kiosk in the harbour.
• Hel Czerwona Oberża: Almost midway on the peninsula, stop and have a coffee in a non-tourist-trap place.
• Rewa is a great town to spend a few hours exploring.

Places to eat and drink

• Captain Morgan Bar Hel is one of my all-time favourite Polish pubs. The resident singer is amazing, ask for the song on page 111…
• Admiral Nelson Pub Hel: Relaxed bar and restaurant on themain street. A lovely sun trap.
• Mąka i Woda Pierogarnia. A fantastic place 30 yards from the main town square.

Where to stay in Hel

Hotel Hel

Fantastic boutique hotel, great rooms and breakfast.

Top tip! Accommodation is usually always limited in Hel, so book early.