The Celtic Trail cycle route is a 575 kilometre route that winds through southern England and Wales. It comprises two sections: the coastal Celtic Trail route that weaves its way from Chepstow on the Welsh Border to Fishguard along Sustrans Route 4; and the Celtic Trail West (AKA the inland Celtic Trail), through central Wales, from Fishguard to Swansea along Sustrans Route 47.

We used these routes to create a five-day self-guided cycling holiday in Wales. The loop started in Amroth, near Tenby, and finished there too (though of course you can start it at any point on the loop). We rode this as a family cycling holiday, but in all honesty, we suspect the undulating terrain, and relatively demanding climbs mean this would not be most children’s idea of a good time! This route is not for beginners. More on that below.

Even in mixed weather, cycling in Pembrokeshire was a wonderful way to immerse ourselves in some of Wales’ most iconic scenery. Pembrokeshire’s coastline, with its dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches, and panoramic sea views, was a highlight, but we also loved the serenity of inland Pembrokeshire.

The route gives a real sense of Wales, taking you from sandcastles and ice-creams on gloriously wide, sandy beaches to majestic castles, historic towns and deep, serene river valleys hidden amongst flower-laden banks.

Read on to find out more about what cycling this part of the Celtic Trail was like.

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Where is the Celtic Trail cycle route?

The Celtic Trail cycle route is part of Sustrans Route 4, which runs from London to Fishguard in west Wales. The Celtic Trail cycle route runs along part of this, from Chepstow near the River Severn on the English-Welsh border to Fishguard.

The Celtic Trail West is part of Sustrans Route 47 which runs from Newport to Fishguard. The Celtic Trail West runs along part of this, from Swansea to Fishguard.

When planning our own version of the Celtic Trail, we concentrated on the parts of the Celtic trail located in Pembrokeshire, much of which is within the Pembrokeshire National Park.

Why did you ride this cycle route in Wales?

Our objective was to get a feel for this corner of Wales and enjoy the renowned coastline, but also get a sense of “the real” Wales.

Our Celtic Trail route passed through five key towns: Carmarthen (day 1), Fishguard, St Davids (both on day 3), Pembroke (day 4) and Tenby (day 5). You may notice that day 2 is missing from this list; that’s because we barely cycled through any towns that day, let alone any key towns!

What were the highlights of cycling in Pembrokeshire?

Scenery

Pembrokeshire’s rugged coastlines and lush inland hills were fabulous. The dramatic cliffs and serene, sweeping beaches you encounter whilst cycling along the Pembrokeshire coastal paths provide a constantly changing backdrop, making (almost) every kilometre a visual treat.

The route gives you a vivid feeling for Pembrokeshire.

It takes you intro the heartlands of rural Wales, in a maze of closely banked roads and lanes on a never-ending rollercoaster of steep climbs and sharp descents. Many of the descents catapult you down to a tiny hamlet sitting by a peaceful brook or stream, hop you over an old stone bridge and then require a swift gear change to make it up the climb the other side.

We found hedgerows and banks smothered in swaying grasses, bright ferns, bright pink fox gloves, white cow parsley and many other varieties of flower.

In the fields herds of dairy cattle munched on lush green grass, flocks of sheep grazed in buttercup strewn fields and there was even a scattering of ponies. We also saw the odd collie dog, most of whom seemed pleasantly disinterested with us.

Gorgeous wildflowers flanking the Pembrokeshire coastline

Heritage

We found ancient cathedrals, medieval castles, and quaint villages in abundance.

Laugharne is a charming village famous for its connection to the poet Dylan Thomas, who lived and wrote here. The Dylan Thomas Boathouse, where he worked, is now a museum dedicated to his life and work. The village’s other main attraction is Laugharne Castle, an imposing stronghold with views over the estuary.

St Davids Cathedral is a remarkable place. It has been a site of pilgrimage for over 1,500 years and its quietly impressive scale and architecture are a treat.

Pembroke Castle is a well-preserved fortress that offers a glimpse into Wales’ rich history. It dates back to the 11th century and was the birth of Henry VII. It also has the tallest castle keep in Europe. A visit is brought to life by the videos and multimedia exhibits throughout the grounds.

Picturesque Tenby is known for its pastel-coloured houses, historic town walls, and vibrant harbour. The town’s sandy beaches and narrow streets, filled with shops and cafés, make it a perfect place to enjoy an ice-cream on your way through.

A sunset at Pembroke Castle, Pembrokeshire, Wales

A beautiful sunset over Pembroke Castle

Culture

As well as this obvious heritage, we also loved the more subtle forms of culture and history we discovered on this trip – the farms we passed with sheep, cows and horses quietly grazing, old water mills and homely cafés.

Throughout this celtic coastal trail, we came across small farm after small farm, in varying states of repair. The more dilapidated ones had barns whose slate roofs were caved in and were sitting unrepaired, with ivy growing in at windows and muddy farmyards strewn with various varieties of ancient tractors and broken-down cars. The more prosperous ones had modern metal farm sheds and enormous shiny JCB’s, their farmhouse front doors painted in tasteful Farrow and Ball hues.

The signs of renewal were even more evident towards the coastline and protected areas of national park, with every other car carrying a kayak on its roof and plentiful campsites, shops and cafés appearing.

The contrast between the tourist influx and old ways felt stark, with banners and signboards only a few miles further inland; farmers fighting for their place with the strapline “no farmers, no food, no future” scattered across gates and pub windows.

The other notable memory from this route was the number of stone churches and chapels we passed along the way. Most of them still seem to be in active service, although one or two had been converted into houses. I just wish we’d have come across one of Wales’ famed male voice choirs.

Cows on the celtic trail, pembrokeshire, wales

Meeting the locals!

Challenge

This is a classic case of an epic ride not necessarily being about hundreds of kilometres, or gradients to boast about.

For the very fit, this route could be completed in a couple of days to “up” the level of challenge. For those looking for a more leisurely experience, ride it as it is and you’ll find challenge enough, especially if you’re self-supported and carrying your own kit.

This is not a flat route; it’s continuously hilly and, in places, technical, thanks to the narrow, high-banked, twisting, gravel-strewn lanes that often dip sharply down to a stream or river.

Those looking for a designated bike lane or “shoulder” to ride should stop reading now. While this route follows a designated, signposted “route” in large part, you’re on the normal road 95% of the time.

Our Celtic Trail cycle route itinerary

Remember to double-check accommodation bike storage arrangements (and any other services you need) before booking as policies often change.

Day 1: Amroth to Carmarthen

Statistics

44 kilometres
486 metres of elevation gain

Summary

Cycling into the heart of rural Wales

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Highlights

  • Quiet lanes and glorious Welsh countryside.
  • The historic town of Laugharne, famous for its association with the poet Dylan Thomas.
  • Medieval Laugharne Castle overlooking the estuary.

Notes

We began the first day of our Celtic Trail cycle route from our Airbnb at Green Sheep Camping, near the coastal village of Amroth, under grey clouds of mizzle.

The first section of our ride gave us a great taste for the demanding hilly ride to come, with narrow windy lanes and steep banks to Laugharne.

After plenty of up and down, we enjoyed a long descent down to Laugharne and came face to face with the impressive castle, looking grand despite the cast of rain.

Laugharne

Laugharne is home to various Dylan Thomas attractions, including the Dylan Thomas boat house (now a café) and Dylan Thomas’s grave. It’s a pretty little town and there were a few different tea rooms and pubs to choose from.

We enjoyed lunch at Poon Street restaurant with a hearty welcome, great food and a perfect respite from the inhospitable weather.

Leaving Laughharne was a long slow uphill grind. Just before St Clears, country lanes gave way to a short section (perhaps a 100 metre) gravel section, before turning onto a surfaced trail through meadow and on to a wholly less pleasant path besides the motorway. A short trip through a small industrial estate and we were back onto glorious country roads all the way to Carmarthen.

Carmarthen

Carmarthen is one of the main towns of this part of Wales. Only a small portion of the castle remains and, while it has some history, it’s not one of the most impressive we saw on this trip.

On a rainy Tuesday in May at 5:30 pm, the shops around the castle seemed weirdly shut; almost like a ghost town. That said, we found an excellent Italian restaurant for a much-deserved dinner. If you are in Carmarthen, check out Florentinos.

Where we stayed

We stayed at Pondside Cottage. An unprepossessing house from the outside, but blessed with excellent central heating for drying out work clothes and plenty of room to store bicycles inside. The colonial style decoration in the bedrooms and bathrooms was also a surprise.

More info

There were a few route options for the first section from Green Sheep Camping to the junction of the B4314 just after Red Roses.

  • Option 1: Take the steep, rutted bridleway down to the beach at Amroth and then climb back up through Marros and Pendine. This is what is shown in the GPS file.
  • Option 2: Take the main road (A477) to Red Roses.
  • Option 3: What we rode – which is different to the GPS route above – cycle two sides of the triangle to Tavernspite in order to avoid the main road. This added around 120 metres of climbing to our route. Had it not been raining, had our bikes been less fully loaded and the children been on gravel bikes rather than road bikes, we probably would’ve opted for option one.

Day 2: Carmarthen to Efailwen

Key statistics

51 kilometres
840 metres of elevation gain

Summary

The quiet heart of Pembrokeshire

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Highlights

  • Feel the heart of farming country.
  • The best-ever rocky road traybake and warmth of Blasus Café is a blissful experience after zero amenities for 40 kilometres of windswept riding.
  • Panoramic views before you descend into Crymych and of the hills and mountains around Efailwen.

Notes

Day two takes you from the hub of Carmarthen into the remote centre of Pembrokeshire. The route continues through rolling farmland, on quiet country lanes. Today felt truly off the beaten track.

Breakfast in Carmarthen

We enjoyed breakfast at Cofi, the converted courthouse, in an old town square. From here we headed out on a path beside the A40 before joining the reasonably busy A484 (there is no path or hard shoulder – but its only around one kilometre) along the river valley for just under four kilometres, until we turned off the left and straight up the biggest climb of the day; four kilometres with an 11% max gradient.

Quiet countryside

The first long descent took us into the village of Talog, with a disused garage and old shop. This was the story of the day in terms of amenities. Lots of places clearly used to have shops and post offices, but they were no longer open. At Tegyn there were two pubs, but neither were open until the evening. At a town after that, we passed a pub with plaster falling off the wall; also closed.

A number of the climbs and descents were pretty ferocious; somewhere around Pen y bont we passed an 18% sign on a descent down to the village. In another village we passed a beautiful chapel with a graveyard cascading down the hillside.

National Park

The day continued with undulating roads; blissfully quiet and during the first part of the day, before we came into Pembrokeshire National Park, nearly all of the little traffic we came across was in the form of huge tractors.

As we crossed the border into the Park, there definitely seemed to be a little more traffic on the roads.

Terrain-wise, the winding lanes of the first day continued, with steep banks until we hit Pembrokeshire National Park and the terrain opened out a bit, with less steeply banked lanes and wider, more open fields.

Where we stayed

We stayed in a bell tent at Camping@Beca near Efailwen (Airbnb).

More info

  • Breakfast in the centre of Carmarthen requires a brief detour that’s not included in this GPS file.
  • Ensure you have enough water and food, as services are sparse.
  • There is a shop at the Spar about one mile from Camping@Beca. There is also a small, very local, bar on site, housed in a shed. When we stayed, the bar opened at 5:30pm and we were able to charge our devices in the bar. They weren’t serving food.

Day 3: Efailwen to St Davids

Key statistics

60 kilometres
790 metres of elevation gain

Summary

From agricultural Wales to tourist haven

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Highlights

  • The majestic St Davids Cathedral, a significant site of pilgrimage and a masterpiece of architecture.
  • The stunning views from the coastal cliffs before you reach St Davids.

Notes

The third day was a journey cycling from inland Pembrokeshire to the coastal city of St Davids, the smallest city in the UK.

Efailwen to Fishguard

We headed out of the campsite with stormy grey clouds and rain sheeting down. A 10 kilometre ride through winding lanes took us to Café Sgwar in Maenclochog (it opened at 9 am so don’t arrive too early!).

The next 18 or so kilometres to Fishguard continued on lanes skirting the Pembrokeshire National Park to the east, and with a notable four kilometre climb before Fishguard to far-reaching views to the coast. It was a fast descent down into town, where there were plenty of places we could have stopped for a refuel.

Fishguard to St Davids

We pressed on and while close to the coast, you couldn’t really tell. We enjoyed a stop at an art gallery around five kilometres west of Fishguard (no café though).

A few kilometres later, we turned southwest and took another diversion off the route to lunch at a pleasant café in Mathry – which also had a slightly eclectic collectibles wing attached to it.

The hillock here offered spectacular coastal views and demanding riding with steep descents down to old fishing villages like Abercastle, before steep climbs out again.

As we went further west, tractors were replaced by tourist cars and sports people. There were lots of cars carrying canoes and kayaks and many of the houses seem to be B&Bs and campsites. The villages all had cafés; very different to the rural area we had been in that morning. There was quite a lot more traffic on the road but it still wasn’t overly busy.

St Davids

Cycling into Saint Davids, I expected to be greeted by out-of-town supermarkets and urban sprawl, but in fact the Premier Inn was one of the first buildings we hit, and that was about as far out as this tiny city went (about 500 metres before the centre).

We walked down to St Davids Cathedral, impressively hidden in a valley, with the Bishops Palace in ruins beside it. We had a drink at the Bishop’s pub and sat outside admiring the sun set over the main tower of the cathedral.

We had dinner at The Farmers and were lucky to get a table. Saint Andrews seems to be a popular place to stay and people book reservations for both dinner and breakfast.

Where we stayed

At the Premier Inn, we were able to take the bikes into the bedrooms with no problems. As there were four of us, we had booked a family room and a standard double.

We kept all the bikes and kit in the standard room and we all slept in the family room with two extra beds. This worked well, though it wasn’t the most cost-efficient. However, as mentioned below, there were very limited options for staying one night in the area.

More info

  • To get to Café Sgwar and the café in Mahar, we had to take a brief diversion off the route shown in this GPS.
  • Coastal winds can be strong, so be prepared for variable weather conditions.
  • If you want to see seals, puffins and other marine life, there were a couple of small shops offering tours in St Davids.
  • It was tricky finding anywhere open for breakfast before 9:30am in St Davids. Perhaps we should have braved the Premier Inn breakfast, but instead we opted for a DIY breakfast at the Cathedral Shop (their café also doesn’t open until 9:30am). If you want a sit-down breakfast before then, you could try the St David’s Hotel and we also found that The Mill Café opens at 9am but you need a reservation.

Day 4: St Davids to Pembroke

Key statistics

52 kilometres
600 metres of elevation

Summary

From famous cathedral to famous castle via some gorgeous coastline, utilising the cycle routes in Pembrokeshire

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Highlights

  • The picturesque harbour of Solva, perfect for a scenic break.
  • Visit Pembroke Castle, a well-preserved fortress dating back to the 11th century. Mammoth bones have been found in the cavern beneath the castle, making it one of the most important archaeological sites in the country.

Notes

Starting from St Davids, day four takes you south along the spectacular Pembrokeshire coastline.

St Davids to Newgale

It’s a quick exit out of St Davids and onto country lanes. You soon come down to a quiet valley that’s home to Solva Wollen Mill, the oldest continuously working woollen mill in Pembrokeshire, in operation since 1907.

You climb up to an RAF base and then there’s a fast descent down to the beach at Newgale; we passed a 16% sign on the way down. You’re on the main road (A487) for around three kilometres in this section, and when we rode it, it wasn’t quiet.

Newgale to Broadhaven

Fortunately, in Newgale you take the coastal road while the A487 heads inland – and this narrow country road provides a gorgeous, if lumpy, 10 kilometres along the coast. Stop at Nolton Haven to admire the beach, but beware the enormous steep climb up and away again!

One of the highlights of this section was passing the Round House, which looks like a hobbit house, set into the cliff. According to the signboard, it was built in 1910 as a croquet pavilion by Harold Fowler, an international croquet champion. As a Millennium project, it was renovated into an eco house. It’s owned by the adjacent hotel and you can stay in it should you wish.

Broadhaven to Pembroke

We left Broadhaven and headed inland with a big climb away from the coast. The route avoids Haverfordwest and you’re soon on a lovely, paved bike path through woods and meadows to within eight kilometres of Pembroke.

The bridge over beautiful Milford Haven was gusty, but at least had a decent bike path for us to ride. Ploughing through Pembroke Dock was not a highlight but was relatively brief and we were soon climbing to Pembroke.

There’s a big descent down into Pembroke and it’s quite a “wow” moment, when the view opens up to the river, with the 1,000-year-old castle standing guard behind it.

Where we stayed

We stayed at The Green (Airbnb), opposite the castle.

More info

  • The terrain includes a mix of steep climbs and descents.
  • This area is not as remote as the previous days, but it’s still worth considering where you’re going to refuel, since away from the coast there aren’t tons of options.
  • We stopped for lunch in a fantastic bakery in Johnston. It wasn’t much to look at, but it served up freshly made baguettes and enormous squidgy cakes. There’s even bike parking and picnic tables; though if it was raining you might want to find somewhere else as there’s nowhere to eat inside (locals recommended The Larder and Legends to us).
  • It was a surprise to find that Pembroke is a lot smaller than Pembroke Docks. Pembroke felt surprisingly village like and slightly down on its luck. Perhaps the kind of place that coach parties come for day trips to the castle and then leave again?
  • The castle is worth a visit. It closed at 5:30pm when we were there, so try and arrive in good time.
  • We ate dinner in Roses Restaurant. A café during the day, it becomes a Turkish restaurant at night and the food was tasty.

Day 5: Pembroke to Amroth

Statistics

32 kilometres
470 metres of elevation

Summary

A final hilly 30 kilometres cycling Pembrokeshire’s most popular coastline

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Highlights

  • The vibrant town of Tenby, with its pastel-coloured houses and sandy beaches.
  • The stunning coastal views as you approach Saundersfoot and Amroth.

Notes

The final day on the Celtic Trail brings you back to the starting point at Amroth.

Pembroke to Tenby

We left Pembroke with a nice lap of the castle moat but also a considerable amount of traffic. You head out on fairly non-descript residential streets into the countryside.

Soon you’re on country lanes but there are some quite steep climbs and before the turn left off The Ridgeway, we encountered quite a bit of traffic.

From here, you weave your way through the lanes and a few beautiful hamlets and villages, like Saint Florence with its pretty church. There are some heavily wooded sections as well as rolling hills and tiny lanes until you reach the outskirts of Tenby.

Tenby to Wisemans Bridge

On the west side of Tenby, you work your way through a holiday village, and then next to a golf course, before a sharp climb takes you up into Tenby. You ride past Tenby’s colourful seafront for a way, before a big climb over the headland and down to Saundersfoot.

In Saundersfoot you cut through a series of dead-end streets to a pedestrian/cyclist tunnel, that takes you out onto a path with nice views of Saundersfoot beach.

At the end of Saundersfoot, the path was closed due to a rock fall so, rather than continuing on (as shown in the GPS route), we had to climb up over the hill at Hean Castle. This was a steep climb!

Wisemans Bridge to Amroth

Back down at the coastline, Wisemans Bridge seemed a popular spot, with the pub there doing great business. You climb up Cliff Road and onto a gravel track along the cliffs, with great views along coastline (even if views were slightly obstructed by an overgrown green hedge). Still, we enjoyed 180 degree views of the hills and coastline.

There’s then a dive down to Amroth before the final climb back up to Amroth village and back to the farm.

A stunning coastal end to a stunning tour of Pembrokeshire! By the end of this five-day journey, you will have experienced some of the best of Pembrokeshire’s landscapes and heritage, the things that make the Celtic Trail cycle route a truly memorable cycling adventure.

More info

  • Be mindful of traffic and pedestrians when cycling through Tenby; it’s a busy tourist destination.
  • If you have time, it’s worth stopping off in Tenby, which is famous for its picturesque harbour and historic town walls.

Things to be aware of when riding the Celtic Trail cycle route, Wales?

Weather conditions

The weather in Pembrokeshire can be unpredictable. Be prepared for sudden changes in weather, including rain and strong winds.

Spring and autumn can bring particularly variable conditions, so it’s essential to pack waterproof clothing and check the forecast regularly.

During the summer months, while the weather is generally more stable, coastal fog can also appear, reducing visibility.

Bring suitable clothing!

It can also often be windy; the deeply banked lanes protect you from some of this. You might notice it more towards the coast and when passing gateways to fields.

Medieval Laugharne Castle overlooking the estuary

The atmospheric Medieval Laugharne Castle overlooking the estuary

Terrain challenges

The Celtic Trail cycle route can be challenging. We found that the road surfaces were generally fine, but care is needed as you’ll come across plenty of potholes and gravel on the road. These can be especially hairy on corners and on the steep descents.

Some sections of the route include significant climbs; these tend to be a short (a few kilometres at most) but sharp and strenuous for less fit cyclists.

Additionally, most of the roads are narrow and winding. This, combined with imperfect road surfaces, can lead to some fast, technical descent more appropriate for intermediate and experienced cyclists.

Tips: Put on your winter tyres; there’s often lots of gravel and mud on the road. It’s also important to make sure your bike is well-maintained before setting out.

a gravel path on the celtic trail, wales

A narrow gravel path we came across

Traffic

Don’t assume that even though you’re on a tiny road, there will be no traffic. We found that while there was hardly any car traffic in South Wales, we did come face-to-face with quite a few enormous tractors. There are limited passing places on these very narrow, steep-banked lanes and while we found vehicles pretty relaxed about waiting for us, it is always a good idea to pull over into layby to let their path, when you can.

Other cyclists

We didn’t see many other cycle tourists on our Celtic Trail route! We passed two tourers on the first day and a handful of roadies in St Davids! Such a shame that more people aren’t enjoying this incredible route; get out there and try it!

Limited services in rural areas

Away from the coast, we found that the number of places to eat and stock up on supplies really reduced. Shops, cafés and pubs (let alone bike shops!) were sparse. A lot of places marked on the on the map are in fact just tiny hamlets. Bear this in mind when planning where you’ll eat.

Even in towns, many places don’t serve food during the week or at lunch, so it’s a good idea to plan ahead if you aren’t going self-sufficient.

Carry enough food, water, and essential repair tools. It’s also wise to have a basic understanding of bike maintenance to handle minor issues independently.

Mobile phone signal can be intermittent in these areas, so having a physical national cycle route 4 map (and 47) or GPS device is advisable.

Navigation

Ensure you have the route loaded onto your phone or bike computer.

While there are plenty of signposts, our version of the Celtic Trail often doesn’t follow the signposted route all the time; and the signposts can be confusing.

sustrans route 4 sign

One of the Sustrans sign posts we came across on the Celtic Trail cycle route

Tips for planning a tour of the Celtic Trail cycle route in Wales?

Best time of year to cycle the Celtic Trail

The best time to cycle the Celtic Trail cycle route is during late spring to early autumn (May to September). During this period, the weather is generally milder and more predictable, with longer daylight hours allowing for extended rides. Summer (June to August) offers the warmest conditions, making it ideal for enjoying the stunning coastal views and outdoor attractions. However, this is also the busiest time, especially during school holidays, so be prepared for more people and higher accommodation prices.

Spring (April and May) is a particularly nice time of year, with spring flowers and autumn foliage enhancing the scenic views.

Early autumn (September and October) are also good options. The weather is usually pleasant, and the roads are less busy in the touristy areas, providing a more serene cycling experience.

What kit should cyclists bring to ride the Celtic Trail?

The part of the Celtic Trail we rode was almost all on road, so a road bike works well.

If you want to ride self-supported, it will be a question of how light you want to travel and whether you need to move to a gravel or touring bike to make sure you can add bike bags and carry the relevant weight.

Good gearing for hills is sensible.

Essential kit includes a helmet, high-visibility clothing, waterproof gear, and gloves. Given the unpredictable weather, layering is advisable, allowing you to adjust to changing conditions.

A robust puncture repair kit, spare inner tubes, a multi-tool, and a pump are vital – check our packing list for more details.

A GPS device (or, if you’re old school (!) a physical map) is important for navigation.

Don’t forget to pack enough food and water, as services can be sparse in rural sections (as mentioned above).

Sun protection, including sunscreen and sunglasses, is also important, even on cloudy days.

Check out our touring packing list for more details.

cycling up a hill on the celtic trail

Another beautiful country lane on the Celtic Trail

How many days does it take to cycle the Celtic Trail?

Our version of the Celtic Cycle trail route is designed to be ridden over five days, assuming a moderate pace and time to enjoy the sights along the way. Each day’s ride averages between 40 and 60 kilometres; the distances aren’t long, but remember there is a lot of up and down!

We rode the route with our children, so didn’t want to push the distances more than this. However, of course, you can amend the route to add more or less distance each day depending on fitness levels, cycling speed, and the amount of time spent exploring attractions along the route.

What are the road surfaces like on the Celtic Trail?

The road surfaces on this Celtic Trail cycle route are varied. You’ll likely encounter a mix of smooth tarmac, gravel paths, and some rougher off-road sections. While the majority of the route is on well-maintained paths and minor roads, there are areas where the surface can be rutted and uneven (as mentioned above), requiring some good bike handling skills. Hybrid or touring bikes with wider tyres are recommended to handle these mixed conditions comfortably.

Is there lots of road traffic on the Celtic Trail in Pembrokeshire?

The Celtic Trail, on which our route is based, is designed to avoid heavy traffic, following quiet country lanes and (in a few places) dedicated cycle paths.

That said, you may encounter some traffic when passing through some of the larger towns and villages, particularly on bank holiday weekends and during peak tourist seasons. Take extra care in these areas.

As mentioned above, you may also find agricultural vehicles (like huge tractors!) on the roads in the quietest parts of the route in inland Pembrokeshire.

The rural sections of the trail are generally very peaceful, offering a tranquil cycling experience.

Three cyclists on the celtic trail cycle route in wales

Peaceful, low traffic roads were a common sight on this cycle route…

Is the route suitable for riding with children?

The Celtic Trail route we rode may be suitable for families with older children who are experienced cyclists, with good bike handling skills and the fitness to handle longer distances and varied terrains.

Younger or less experienced cyclists are likely to find it too hard due to the steep climbs, imperfect road surfaces and fact you’ll encounter large farm machinery on narrow lanes.

If you do want to ride the route with your family, have a careful think about whether your kids are sufficiently experienced. Don’t do it as your first family trip; it’s not for beginners! Also bear in mind that you could always plan shorter daily distances.

This article has more tips for planning successful family bike holidays.

Is this route suitable for beginners?

We wouldn’t suggest this for beginners or as a first cycling holiday, due to the nature of the terrain, the road surfaces and the fact that it’s pretty remote in parts, with little backup if things go wrong.

How fit do you have to be to ride this route?

You’ll need a moderate level of fitness and to be fully comfortable riding the daily distances involved.

The route includes various terrains, including some challenging hills and longer distances.

Regular cyclists who are comfortable with daily rides of 40 to 60 kilometres on UK country roads should be fine. For those less accustomed to cycling these kind of distances (or in the UK countryside!), some preparatory rides focusing on building endurance and handling hills can be beneficial.

This article contains more tips for preparing for riding long distances.

What is the local food and drink like in Pembrokeshire?

Wales isn’t famous for its food, but we found lots of lovely pubs and local cafés serving homely British staples.

I’d ready that Pembrokeshire is known for its fresh seafood, including crab, lobster, and mussels; but honestly, we didn’t see much sign of that!

Give the bara brith (a fruit loaf) and Welsh Cakes a go though, just in case it turns out you love them!

Bear in mind the point on availability of cafés and pubs when you’re outside the main towns; more details above.

Cales for sale in a cafe in wales

Ready for our daily cake fix!

Do you need cash in local currency while cycling on this route?

Everywhere we went accepted cards. But it’s possible you get unlucky or someone’s wifi is down, so some back-up cash is always a good idea.

How expensive is it to cycle the Celtic Trail?

Cycling the Celtic Trail can be relatively affordable, depending on your accommodation and dining choices. Costs for food and drink can vary, but preparing your own meals, rather than eating out, can help reduce costs.

Budget-friendly options such as camping can help keep costs down.

Mid-range and luxury accommodations are also available for those preferring more comfort.

Are there any good books to read or good cycling maps about the Celtic Trail?

We aren’t aware of any books.

This Sustrans Celtic Trail map is worth a look.

What are the Highway Code rules for cyclists in Wales?

Cyclists in Wales must adhere to the Highway Code, which includes rules such as riding on the left side of the road, using lights after dark, and wearing a helmet for safety. Being aware of specific regulations, such as giving way to pedestrians on shared paths and signalling clearly when turning, ensures a safe and lawful ride.

If you’re cycling in the UK, you should be familiar with these rules, so make sure you have a read.

give way sign in wales

Trying to pronounce the road signs in Welsh is always fun

Please provide information on the logistics for planning the Celtic Trail cycle tour?

How do you get to the start of the route?

We started our ride near the small village of Amroth. You’ll likely get here in a car; the nearest train station is in Tenby, approximately 11 kilometres from Amroth.

Of course, you could always start and finish the ride somewhere with better transport connections than Amroth. There are train stations in main towns such as Fishguard, Pembroke, Saundersfoot and Tenby.

Where can you leave your car while you ride the Celtic Trail route?

We left our car at our accommodation in Amroth; of course, you’ll need to check in advance with your hosts that they’re happy to offer this.

Can you hire bikes to ride your version of the Celtic Trail?

Bike hire is available from a few places on or near the route, but as we didn’t use this, we don’t know about the quality of the bikes available. You’ll need to make your own detailed enquiries about bike hire in Pembrokeshire.

Is it easy to find cycling-friendly accommodation on the Celtic Trail?

There are plenty of places to stay along the coast and in the more touristy areas the route passes through.

Here are links to the accommodation in Carmarthen, Efailwen, St David’s, and Pembroke.

Many of these will be happy to accommodate bikes, but check before you book. We didn’t come across any bike specific accommodation when we were looking.

The main issue we encountered was that lots of places require a minimum of two or three nights; not ideal on a bike tour! Such policies really reduce your options, which is why we ended up in a campsite on day 3!

Booking in advance, especially during peak tourist season, will undoubtedly help with availability and finding somewhere to meet your requirements.

The Premier Inn, St Davids, Wales

The Premier Inn we stayed at in St Davids

Are there companies offering supported tours on the Celtic Trail?

We aren’t aware of any! If you are reading this article and offer cycling holidays in Pembrokeshire and/or on the Celtic Trail, please drop us a line.

Please provide information on luggage transfer services on the Celtic Trail route

We aren’t aware of any! If you are reading this article and offer cycling holidays in Pembrokeshire and/or on the Celtic Trail, please drop us a line.

Final thoughts

We had an amazing time riding our Celtic Trail cycle route.

It was definitely on the demanding side for our 8 and 11 year old (who are practised cyclists), but despite variable weather we managed to still have a great time!

Cycling in Pembrokeshire was really beautiful, the scenery and the kind local people are well worth a visit! We would definitely repeat the experience.

Looking for more cycling in the UK? Take a look at these articles:

Or for more cycling tours packed with historical interest, take a look at the Camino de Santiago in Spain and Via Francigena in Italy.

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Clare Dewey

Clare Dewey is a cyclist with a passion for travel. She set up epicroadrides.com in 2018 to help make it easy for cyclists to explore the world by bike. Today her mission is still inspiring cyclists to discover new places on two wheels – and doing what she can to make sure they have the best possible time while they’re there. Clare has visited 50+ destinations around the world, many of them by bike.

Last Reviewed: 15 July 2024

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