Looking for a Canada biking adventure? Like huge mountains, glacial lakes and sweeping valleys?

In this article, experienced solo cycle tourer Isobel Duxfield shares the scenic route she rode through Alberta and British Colombia. It’s a jaw-dropping journey packed with some of the planet’s finest natural spectacles. Isobel, who has cycled extensively across Europe and Turkey, told us she’s never seen scenery like it anywhere in the world.

Isobel’s epic one-week itinerary in between the bustling cities of Calgary and Vancouver aims to take in the very best this majestic corner of Canada has to offer…

For another British Colombia itinerary, don’t miss Isobel’s route exploring Vancouver Island and Prince Rupert.

All metrics in this article are approximate.

An overview of biking Canada from Calgary (Alberta) to Vancouver (British Colombia)

A scenic bike tour of Canada

Located in the far west of Canada, my 1,400 kilometre route started with cycling from Calgary and through Alberta. I then would my way through British Colombia to Vancouver on the west coast.

This deliberately isn’t the most direct route between the two cities!

Instead, this is a longer alternative route that takes in some of Canada’s most impressive natural sights. This includes the Icefields Parkway and Fraser River Valley. Both offer more scenic, generally calmer, cycling than other surrounding routes.

Along the way you cross (almost) every terrain Canada has to offer, from lush pine valleys to dry hillsides, along incredible rivers, over major mountain pastures, across flat plains, past glaciers, lakes and everything in between!

Canada map

Map of Canada

The Canadian Rocky Mountains

I chose this route as it covers some of Canada’s most stunning landscapes and national parkland. The route snakes its way through the Rocky Mountains, including the popular mountain towns of Banff and Canmore.

It’s a place that’s home to awe inspiring mountains, stunning rivers and amazing (if sometimes terrifying) wildlife. It also does not involve too much elevation. Sticking to lower altitudes mean it’s suitable to cycle in the spring season, even when the temperatures are incredibly low.

A beautiful view of the Canadian Rocky Mountains.

Snow capped mountains in the Canadian Rockies (credit: Isobel Duxfield)

Cycling the Icefields Parkway

I don’t think anything could have prepared me for the beauty of cycling the Icefields Parkway.

I have cycled in many areas of Europe and Turkey, but the Parkway took my breath away, like no other landscape has ever done.

The moment I entered the 160 kilometre road, my jaw dropped. Colossal, snowcapped mountains loom over from both sides of the road, their jagged edges sparkling in the sunshine.

Top tip! For those with extra time, I recommend spending a few days in the Icefields Parkway trying out some of the many hikes available. I wasn’t able to do this myself, due to the weather conditions, but in summer I think there would be some incredible hiking opportunities.

Aerial view of vehicles on scenic Icefields Parkway highway between Banff and Jasper National Parks during summer in Alberta, Canada.

The scenic Icefields Parkway highway

Cycling British Colombia’s beautiful green landscapes

British Colombia’s landscapes feel vastly different to the first part of this cycling route and are just as beautiful.

This region is a green beauty that’s nothing like I had ever experienced before. These landscapes are characterised by wide rivers that meander through rocky, pine forested mountains.

Encounters with wildlife

This bike tour of Canada is also a wonderful opportunity to view a lot of exciting wildlife.

Along the way I saw moose, elk, otters and even a bear. The bear stood just three metres from me at the side of the road! Later in the year, this is also an ideal location to view salmon spawning, as they swim up in their millions, filling the river.

Be aware! Cyclists need to carry the right equipment for encountering animals in Canada, such as bears. Bear spray, or bangers, are essential. Read up on what to do when encountering wildlife before you go on your trip!

What to expect from the roads and cycle paths on this Canada bike tour

A great option for confident cycle tourers

This is not a tour for those seeking separated cycling infrastructure across the entire journey (as you may find on a EuroVelo route in Europe). Confident cycling alongside traffic is therefore essential.

However, navigation is generally straightforward

as you often find yourself following the same road for days at a time, switching from one valley to the next.

There are lots of flat sections and only a few steep up hills.

There are also no real ‘wilderness’ sections, so this makes it relatively easy to reach out for assistance, if necessary. Though bear in mind there is still significant wildlife (as mentioned above!).

Cycling the Canadian Highways

Most of this route follows highways.

Highways can be intimidating for Europeans not accustomed to cycling on these kind of roads. There was a volume of traffic on certain highways and some of the trucks which passed me were scarily large. However, many are surprisingly very calm, and cars are usually respectful of cyclists.

Despite this, it’s best to avoid some of the more major routes. From Kamloops I took a large detour to Lillooet as the road is much smaller with far less traffic – just be prepared for a lot of climbing on this route…

Cycling on Canada’s highways does demand a certain amount of vigilance. This is so that you do not swerve away from the hard shoulder and into the traffic lane. This can be particularly tricky on downhill sections.

Nonetheless, the hard shoulder is generously wide on most roads (if not all). I found truck drivers to be incredibly accommodating, retaining a wide berth as they passed me.

Beware! Before the end of May, the roads have not been swept clear of the grit that accumulates during winter. As a result, you are stuck between rumble strips and small stones, confined to a three centimetre strip. This can feel particularly precarious when cycling downhill. The Yellowhead Highway from Jasper to Mount Robson is where I found this was a particular challenge.

A quiet highway in Canada

A quiet, low traffic highway (credit: Isobel Duxfield)

Good cycling infrastructure in urban spaces

The infrastructure set up for cyclists was far more extensive than I had expected. I had heard rumours of separate cycle paths but had resolved not to get my hopes up for fear of disappointment.

Cycling in Calgary and Vancouver is made easier and more pleasant thanks to extensive cycle lanes.

Meanwhile, I’ve been told that urban areas along the way such as Kamloops, Banff, Canmore and Abbotsford have dramatically improved their cycling infrastructure in recent years; to me they certainly felt pretty welcoming for cyclists.

Top tip! When approaching big cities check out where the cycle paths are. Often online maps will not direct you via the safest and calmest route, and instead you may find yourself on a major highway. In the rain and snow, this can be dangerous.

Around Calgary, Chilliwack and Abbotsford I had to ignore my mapping software and take a route which had been advised by local cyclists I met along the way.

My Canada cycling itinerary

I cycled relatively long distances each day (between 120-170 kilometres) and therefore completed this bike tour from Calgary to Vancouver in just over a week. However, it is possible to follow the route in much shorter stages according to your pace, luggage, fitness and accommodation preferences.

I have therefore split the route into three distinct sections. The daily distances of these sections can easily be altered to suit your timescales.

I do not record my route on a GPS system when cycling, so don’t have GPS files I’m able to share in this article.

Top tip! There is so much to see and experience along the route including, but not limited to, climbing, hiking and kayaking. This means that it is almost impossible to dictate a day-by-day account of how to complete the entire journey. Have fun creating your own unique itinerary that’s tailored to your specific needs!

Section 1: Calgary and Jasper

Distance

410 kilometres

Summary

Escape the big city on dedicated Calgary cycling routes and head deep into the mind-blowing Canadian Rockies

Notes

You leave Calgary along a great cycle path which hugs the Bow River, barely touching a road.

From here, there is approximately 100 kilometres on the larger 1A highway to Canmore. After Cochane (around 50 kilometres away) the road becomes much calmer.

The snowcapped peaks of the Rockies sit in the distance, getting ever closer!

From Canmore to Banff, cyclists enjoy a separate cycle path, The Legacy Trail.

The Legacy Trail sits adjacent to the highway (but not too close) and takes in the beautiful valley. From here to Lake Louise, it is a cycle route which then migrates onto the 1A highway. When I cycled this in the spring, I experienced a lovely sleepy forested road.

At the end of the 1A, you hit Lake Louise. You then turn onto a short cycle path which runs alongside the large Number 1 highway, turning into the start of the Icefields Parkway.

After this, the separated cycling infrastructure disappears. But the wide hard shoulder lining the Icefields Parkway is more than adequate for a cycle tourer laden with baggage.

At the end of the Parkway is Jasper, where there are plenty of accommodation and grocery options.

I rode this in two days; I would have taken longer (and I’d suggest others do!) but it was off season, so no camping grounds were open and my only option was the Hi Rampart Hostel midway along the route.

Be aware!

Cycling on the parkway during spring demands the ability to cope with the cold and strong winds. The mornings were sub-zero, and flurries of snow rained down on several occasions. I also pedalled furiously into headwinds.

Points of interest

  • Cycling the 25 kilometre Banff Legacy Trail cycle path from Canmore.
  • Gazing in awe at the beautiful views as your cycle through the Icefields Parkway landscapes.

Section 2: Jasper to Kamloops

Statistics

440 kilometres

Summary

Cycle the spectacular Yellowhead Highway, considered one of Canada’s most scenic drives.

Notes

I completed this section in three (long) days covering a lot of mileage. However, others can take far longer to traverse it, if necessary.

You leave Jasper on the Yellowhead Highway and make your way to the base of Mount Robson, a stunning peak that towers above the valley.

Take note! Critically, this is the only place to load up with water and food after Jasper, and after 80 kilometres, the break was definitely welcome! In fact, places to stop are few and far between along the entire route, a significant change (and challenge) for somebody accustomed to cycling in Europe.

Eventually you reach Valemount, a sleepy (but welcoming) town situated next to Swift Creek. At this point the valley widens out as you head south. A good place to stock up on supplies, which I did!

From Valemount you continue south. The highway gradually descends, following the river down through the pine tree lined valley.

As I lost elevation, the temperature began to increase significantly, and the snow began to disappear. Compared with the previous days cycling in sweaters and gloves, I was now in shorts and a T-shirt! It finally felt like springtime!

Good to know

To a Brit who is accustomed to narrow, winding country roads, the idea of cycling down a highway sounded terrifying. It conjured visions of huge freeways with streams of traffic thundering past.

So, when I was advised to follow the Yellowhead Highway down from Jasper, through Valemount to Kamloops, I was sceptical…

I need not have worried! It was a wonderful route that is ideal for those looking for a very accessible, relatively easy touring route featuring beautiful landscapes.

Points of interest

  • The sleepy town of Valemount is infamous amongst mountain bikers. There is a sprawling mountain bike park, which boasts a maze of well-constructed downhill mountain bike trails.
  • Mount Robson, which at 2,975 metres, is the highest point in the Canadian Rockies and a beautiful sight to see.
  • Bluewater is home to a lovely river.

Section 3: Kamloops to Vancouver

Statistics

497 kilometres

Summary

The final leg of the journey takes you through diverse, green British Colombia landscapes, towards Vancouver city and the coast. This is more mountainous than the previous sections of the route, but it is well worth the effort!

Notes

Take the Highway 1 to Cache Creek, followed by 99 to Lillooet.

From here you head down towards Lytton. This next section was quiet when I cycled it (in off season) and much more undulating; the perpetual up and down wiped me out.

By the time I reached Lytton, a village which was destroyed by forest fire and is now being rebuilt, I was exhausted. The headwind was ferocious and I could barely pedal downhill, let alone uphill!

You then rejoin Highway 1 to Hope and the traffic picks up a little again, with some busier sections to navigate. I cycled this section slowly and carefully and found the drivers to be respectful of distance.

From Hope, you take the relatively flat Highway 7 for approximately 30 kilometres. If you have the wind behind you (which unfortunately I did not), you can easily cruise along towards Vancouver.

After this you cross towards Chilliwack, Abbotsford and into Vancouver. This section involved far more elevation than I had bargained for. I had been treated to a relatively flat cruise from Calgary – if you don’t count the Icefields Parkway!

As you reach nearer to Vancouver, the traffic becomes noticeably heavier.

Navigating Vancouver by bike

As is the case with any major city, entering by bicycle is a complex, and often daunting process. However, the new bike routes which have been marked along many sections from Abbotsford mean that despite heavy traffic, there is a good sense of security.

That said, vigilance is definitely required; white lines painted on the road and a few bike signs every few kilometres will not prevent one of the (many) large trucks from ploughing into you.

Entering Vancouver was like emerging into a cycling nirvana. For anybody who has been here, you will know this is not hyperbole. Having barely seen another cyclist for almost two weeks, suddenly I was surrounded by them.

I took the Greenway into the city centre which passed through block after block that had been transformed into cycle-friendly streets. I encountered many bike lanes, ‘slow streets’ and bike hire facilities.

Good to know

This route appears to be a significant detour from the direct highway(s) which travel from Kamloops towards the west coast. This is a deliberate decision to avoid busier roads and to take in more impressive scenery.

Leaving Kamloops demands careful planning to avoid the traffic.

It is impossible to avoid using the major highway for at least a few kilometres in order to access the smaller highway 1 (despite what your GPS might say).

Top tip! Follow Hillside Drive, then cut onto the main highway for about a kilometre, before you reach the exit. Although the road down to Cache Creek is undoubtedly busy, the large hard shoulder makes it suitable for cycling.

Points of interest

  • The calm valley from Cache Creek to Lillooet. It’s home to many First Nations communities. Lillooet is located alongside the Fraser River, at the foot of several stunning mountains.
  • The Highway 1s stunning forested mountains and meandering Fraser river as you make your way to Hope.
  • Cycling Vancouver’s impressive network of cycle paths and soaking up the extensive cycle friendly infrastructure.

Shorter Vancouver cycling tours

There are many fantastic, shorter bike riding options in Vancouver BC, with plenty of options to explore this stunning stretch of the west coast.

For starters, there are regular ferries to Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast. A weekend trip to Squamish is also possible by following the Sea to Sky highway.

Top tip! I suggest exploring the British Columbia Cycling Coalition website or their Facebook Page which offers much guidance on local cycling.

Top tips for planning your Canada biking trip

Best time of year to cycle

I think June would be a great time to cycle the route, when campsites have opened and before the school holidays.

I cycled this route at the start of spring. Temperatures were often still below freezing, and the headwinds were also terrifyingly strong! Whilst the Rockies were freezing cold, the temperatures quickly rose when I got down to Kamloops.

There is also a strong headwind at many sections if you are travelling from west to east. That’s why many choose to do this route in reverse (i.e. from Vancouver to Calgary). I rode Calgary to Vancouver because I was heading to Vancouver to present at the British Columbia Cycling Coalition Summit and I thought it would be fitting to arrive by bike since this is what I was promoting!

The end of April is a bit of a limbo time for tourism in the Rockies. Skiers no longer pour into Banff, but precarious weather keeps the summer hikers, climbers (and sane cycle tourers) at bay.

Despite the fact many campsites were closed and temperatures were low in parts, I still found this to be a great time to cycle the route!

More beautiful views en route to Vancouver. Photo credit Isobel Duxfield.

More beautiful views en route to Vancouver (credit: Isobel Duxfield)

Essential gear

Packing for all seasons is important, especially if you plan to cycle this route in the spring like I did.

On the Icefields Parkway I wore five layers, and my water was frozen in the bottle. By Kamloops it was 20 degrees Celsius, and I was wearing shorts and slapping on factor 50 sunscreen. Canadian weather is wild, so be prepared for everything…sometimes in one day!

Here is a list of things I took with me in my four Ortleib panniers and handlebar bag:

Sleeping and eating

  • tent (MSR Hubba Hubba)
  • sleeping bag (RAB Neutrino)
  • sleeping mat (Decathlon Forcaz)
  • stove and gas and lighter (MSR)
  • penknife
  • plastic cutlery

Clothing

  • 2 down jackets (one thick and one thin)
  • thermals
  • 1 pair of trousers
  • cycling shorts
  • thick socks
  • 3 pairs of gloves (all different thicknesses)
  • balaclava
  • hat
  • scarf/neck warmer
  • waterproof jacket
  • waterproof overshoes

Other items

  • suncream
  • sunglasses
  • mosquito repellent
  • Bose speaker for listening to music and podcasts (Using headphones is very dangerous on such large roads)
  • external charger
  • drybags
  • headtorch
  • bike lights
  • hi-viz vest
  • Bear spray

…and my climbing shoes and harness!

Check out our touring packing list for more details.

Isobel in her high vis in the Canadian Rockies. Photo credit Isobel Duxfield.

Isobel takes a moment to enjoy the frozen Canadian landscapes in her high viz vest (credit: Isobel Duxfield)

Accommodation

Planning accommodation requires a bit more thought than many routes in Europe, especially given the distances between urban areas.

Time of year

While cycling this tour in April meant quieter roads, it did make finding accommodation slightly tougher as many places were still closed.

Alongside campsites and hostels, there is ample higher quality accommodation available through Airbnb, hotels and guesthouses. However, these usually come with a high cost in Canada, so may not be accessible for all cyclists.

Campsites

Be aware! Campsites do not tend to open until the start of May.

However, if you follow this route in summer, there are campsites littered along the roads (and generally all are very well signposted). I think this would make finding a place to stay far simpler.

Hostels

The Icefields Parkway and Yellowhead Highway contains numerous hostels, which have basic, but very comfortable beds, cooking facilities – and sometimes even a sauna! However, advanced booking is definitely advisable as beds are snapped up quickly.

Couchsurfing and Warmshowers

I used Couchsurfing and Warmshowers on this cycle tour of Canada.

For those unfamiliar with these sites, the basic premise is a “host” can list their home as a potential location for travellers to stay, with “guests” (or surfers as Couchsurfing terms them) then able to request to stay.

Warmshowers is specifically designed for those travelling by bicycle.

On many of my solo cycling tours I have used these platforms often, receiving incredible kindness from many individuals who hosted me in spare rooms or on couches. I even stayed in one person’s bookstore!

Find out more about Isobel’s experience with these accommodation platforms in this dedicated article.

Sleeping in a bookstore in canada

One of Isobel’s more unusual accommodation options involved sleeping in a bookstore! (credit: Isobel Duxfield)

Organised bike tours

There appear to be several organisations offering bike tours in this region of Canada.

Accommodation can be complex to plan at times. Those who seek a bit more security ahead of time may prefer an organised tour with accommodation logistics arranged for you.

However, the navigation on this route is incredibly straightforward. So, if you are relatively fit and confident cycling alone, or in a pair, you might feel comfortable riding your own self guided bike tour of Canada.

Telephone signal

Forward planning is important on the sections which have poor telephone and data signal. These include:

  • Icefields Parkway (the entire road from start to finish). There are Wi-Fi spots at the gas station in the middle;
  • Yellowhead Highway from Jasper to Mount Robson. There is Wi-Fi at the visitor centre at Robson;
  • Sections of the Yellowhead Highway From Valemount to Bluewater;
  • Cache Creek to Lilloet.

Food and drink

I bought food at local food stores in major towns whenever I could. The main stops along the route are:

  • Cochane
  • Canmore
  • Banff
  • Lake Louise
  • Jasper
  • Mount Robson (visitor centre and cafe)
  • Valemount
  • Bluewater
  • Clearwater
  • Kamloops
  • Cache Creek
  • Lillooet
  • Layton (there is a gas station- but this town burned down in a forest fire several years ago so nothing else is there)
  • Hope
  • Chilliwack
  • Abbotsford

Be aware! During the spring, most cafés are shut. This is also not Europe, so cafés are generally few and far between anyway.

As I found, there are big distances between stops where you can refuel, and many are closed before May. Always ensure you are carrying enough water and food to last for several days, particularly in the Icefields area and some sections of the Yellowhead Highway.

I survived largely on 1kg jars of peanut butter (which are a bargain $4 from Walmart), loaves of bread and instant noodles. What can I say, I am not the healthiest cyclist around!

Looking for more information about what to eat on a long-distance bike ride? Take a look at this article.

Getting to Calgary

I flew into Calgary and took my bike with me.

There are a number of rules which differ according to the airline, so ensure you get all the correct information from your airline beforehand. As a general rule of thumb here are some steps I always follow:

  • Box your bike carefully (you can usually find free boxes from any local bike shop)
  • Wrap it in plastic and your clothes
  • Use a spacer in the disk brakes
  • Store the bolts safely and carefully, labelling them clearly for the reconstruction process on the other side

In addition, make sure you have a multi tool and 15 millimetre spanner for putting the pedals back on, and ensure you get a bike shop to loosen the pedals beforehand, as they have a larger tool for removing them.

Take a look at this flying with your bike article for more recommendations.

Top tip! If there is an issue with your bike on arrival (my front wheel was bent), head to Calgary city centre where there are many bike shops which will quickly sort it out for you. I used Bow Cycle – which is a fantastic bike shop with great customer service.

Unboxing Isobel's bike in Canada. Photo credit Isobel Duxfield.

Isobel unboxing her bike in Calgary (credit: Isobel Duxfield)

Friendly locals

Canadians are incredibly friendly people, and I was treated with kindness across the journey.

Top tip! Don’t be afraid to ask for advice, as they often know an incredible amount about the roads, the weather and the local services. For example, when my bike broke down, I managed to hitch a lift very easily from one of the many pickup truck drivers.

A complex colonial history

I would recommend that any cyclist who is not familiar with Canada’s colonial history, do a little reading around the topic before embarking on this trip. Particularly how it has shaped the experience of the country’s First Nation communities.

The route travels through many reserves and sites of historic significance (particularly around Lilloet and the Fraser River). I think it is important to have a basic understanding of the social and political fabric developed around these.

On reflection, I did not do enough research into this topic, and spent a lot of time discussing colonisation and contemporary reparatory politics. I soon realised that this is an incredibly important issue across British Columbia and the wider country.

Highway code and travel information

It’s always a good idea to check current travel information before you book and travel. Take a look at the UK Government’s travel information pages for Canada here.

You should also read and follow each of the country’s highway codes.

Final thoughts on this Canada bike tour

A big thanks to Isobel for sharing her inspiring adventure cycling across Canada. We hope you are feeling inspired to take on your own bike trip in Canada!

Want to hear more from Isobel? Take a look at Isobel’s Vancouver Island route and her  solo cycling tips article.  For more Canada cycling inspiration, take a look at our guide to cycling Québec City.

Looking for more multi-day cycling trips that have an off the beaten track feel? Head to our multi-day cycling route hub page. Here are some other epic rides that we think you might like…

 

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Isobel Duxfield

Isobel is freelance writer with a Master’s degree in gender equality from Cambridge University.

Isobel says “I completed my postgraduate thesis on women’s cycling, which is where my professional interest in cycling and gender equality began. Since then I have worked with organisations, including the World Bank, Sustrans and British Columbia Cycling Coalition, to produce work which highlights the importance of accessible and inclusive cycling. My objective is to help accelerate and improve cycling infrastructure.

I have completed a seven-month solo bike touring trip from England to Turkey. Currently, I am solo cycling in Canada.”

 

Last Reviewed: 22 July 2024

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