Cycling the Hebridean Way is a stunning experience. This beautiful route takes in 300 kilometres (185 miles) over ten islands, six causeways and two ferries. It stretches from Vatersay in the south of the Outer Hebrides to the Butt of Lewis in the north.
I rode the Hebridean Way in early July with my family. The experience gave us a huge appreciation for the whole of this island chain, with its breathtaking landscapes, fascinating history and unique culture.
Each day on the Hebridean Way brings new sights, with highlights of the route including white sandy beaches, dramatic moors, remote mountains, colourful wildflowers and picturesque natural harbours.
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Where is the Hebridean Way?
Map of Scotland
The Hebridean Way is a spectacular cycling route in the Outer Hebrides (also known as the Western Isles), a series of islands off the west coast of Scotland.
The route starts near the Community Hall on the small, picturesque island of Vatersay. Vatersay is known for its stunning beaches and peaceful atmosphere.
The journey finishes at the Butt of Lewis, located at the northernmost tip of the Isle of Lewis, amongst rugged coastline and dramatic cliffs. The Butt of Lewis lighthouse is an impressive landmark and provides a fitting end to the journey.
The route takes you through ten beautiful islands in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides. These islands are:
- Vatersay
- Barra
- Eriskay
- South Uist
- Benbecula
- Grimsay
- North Uist
- Berneray
- Harris
- Lewis
Each island offers its own unique landscapes and culture.
Overview of cycling the Hebridean Way
Why would someone want to ride the Hebridean Way?
Adventure
The Hebridean Way offers cyclists a great opportunity for adventure. There’s a sense that not many people make it this far off the UK mainland; you really feel the sense of isolation and remote beauty.
The route’s unspoilt nature provides a great escape. With its serene landscapes and minimal traffic, it is a great option for those seeking tranquillity.
Scenery
From the stunningly beautiful white beaches of Vatersay to the machair grasses of South Uist, rugged mountains of Harris and the dramatic cliffs of Lewis, cycling the Western Isles enables you to experience some of the most stunning landscapes in Scotland.
Each island feels slightly different.
There is so much to savour as you cycle the Hebrides, including cycling along quiet roads with panoramic sea views, passing through small villages and riding alongside ancient ruins.
Culture
Cycling the Hebridean Way also offers a cultural experience and insights into these far-flung communities. The Outer Hebrides are rich in history and tradition, with the Gaelic language and culture still thriving.
There are historical sites such as the standing stones of Callanish, the medieval Kisimul Castle and the Blackhouse at Arnol. There is also a strong tradition of distilleries in the Outer Hebrides, with some of them distilling gin and whisky that you can only buy on the islands. World famous Harris Tweed originates on Harris.
Interacting with the friendly locals and experiencing traditional Hebridean hospitality also adds a memorable dimension to the journey.
Both religion and community seemed strong on the islands. We loved the community run shops and our favourite lunch stops were at Community Halls in Vatersay and Lewis, where we found homemade foods, reasonable prices and a friendly welcome. Likewise, we loved our B&B stops in the less popular parts of the route, where we experienced a lot of kindness.
We were also interested to see peat cutting still actively in use, for locals using it as a source of fuel; this is not a common sight elsewhere in the UK!
Towns
Riding the Hebridean Way may be more about the landscapes than the towns (as there aren’t many and they are all small by UK standards), but there are some gems:
- Castlebay on Barra is known for its wide, natural harbour and the medieval Kisimul Castle.
- Tarbert on Harris, is a pretty place, set around a narrow harbour, with a nice marina and the Harris gin distillery.
- Stornoway on Lewis, is the largest town on the route and the commercial heart of the Outer Hebrides. It’s also got a few nice shops selling local foods, drinks and crafts if you want to stock up on gifts at the end of your trip. If you like music, it’s worth seeing if you can tie your trip in with one of their annual music festivals.
Itinerary for the Hebridean Way Cycling Route
The Hebridean Way is part of the National Cycle Network (NCN) Route 780.
Below I describe the leisurely journey we took. Of course, you can slice and dice the route in any way you want, though if you don’t want to camp, your journey may be dictated by the accommodation you can find to book. More on that below.
Day 1: Castlebay (Barra) to Castlebay (Barra) via Vatersay
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Summary
An out and back ride from Castlebay on Barra to the beautiful white-sand beaches of Vatersay, where you find the official start of the Hebridean Way Cycling route.
Notes
We decided to do this as a standalone day, rather than try and push on for the ferry to Eriskay. We’re glad we did as it made for a very relaxed first day with just a few hours riding. It was also blowing a 60-m.p.h. gale (it was so windy that the Barra-Oban ferry didn’t run), so not a day to be in a rush.
However, those on a shorter timeframe could easily combine our day 1 and 2.
The main climb for the day is from the turn to Vatersay up to the pass and then down the 11.1% descent to the causeway. The climb provides spectacular views over Castlebay and it’s a pretty (and fast) descent the other side too.
At the top is a war memorial to the men of Barra and Vatersay who died in the two World Wars. From here, you can appreciate what a fantastic, naturally sheltered harbour Castlebay is. From the pass, you wind your way down and along the shoreline inlets, past isolated farmhouses and scattered sheep grazing the windswept hillsides.
Optional diversion: We took a short diversion from the route, at the fork off left towards Uidh. We discovered pristine, white sand beaches and views all the way back to Castlebay. So a worthwhile extra if you have time.
Back on the Hebridean Way, you pass the remains of a Catalina sea plane that crashed on Vatersay in 1944; the plane wreckage is still lodged in the stream. Remarkably, six of the nine passengers survived.
You round a corner and the long, curved, white sand beach of Vatersay Bay creeps into view. On the grassy dunes, just opposite the Community Hall you’ll find the metal column marker that marks the start to the Hebridean Way.
Optional diversion: We continued past the Community Hall to “the village”. Don’t miss the fabulous honesty cake stand, with its delicious cakes baked by locals. We turned right here and continued to the end of the gravel road and then on, over a grassy path, to the gobsmackingly beautiful and isolated Bath A’Deas beach. Another gorgeous, but totally optional, diversion.
Highlights
- Vatersay’s white sandy beaches. If it wasn’t for the wind and the temperature, I’d have thought I was on a tropical island!
- Vatersay causeway. The 250 metre causeway connects Barra and Vatersay, just a few metres above sea level. Unbelievably, it was only built in 1990; before then you could only get to Vatersay by boat. This meant that cattle had to swim across in order to be transported to market. In 1986 a prize bull, called Bernie, died while swimming across. It was the uproar that ensued that built sufficient pressure to ensure the building of the causeway!
- Kisimul Castle in Castlebay. It’s quite an arresting sight. Thought to have been built in the 11th Century, it was home to the legendary seafaring family, the MacNeils of Barra from 1745. It fell into disrepair and was restored in the 1930s. It’s now leased to Historic Scotland for £1 (and a bottle of whiskey!) per year. You can visit on certain days during summer (no charge) but sadly we weren’t able to as the boat wasn’t running due to the high winds.
- Dualchas Heritage Centre. It offers an understated history of the island of Barra and, in particular, the sad story of the (often forced) emigrations from Barra to Canada in 1923. It also shares the history of the all-important herring industry in Barra. In its heyday, it was said there were so many herring boats in Castlebay that you could walk from one side of the bay to the other without getting your feet wet!
Where we stayed
The views from the hostel over the bay are spectacular – try requesting a bay facing room. We also liked the large living room with games and books and the well-appointed kitchen.
Towels are an optional extra. We could hear the ferry tannoy from our bedroom (an early start to the day). The bike shed seemed very full; perhaps some of these bikes belong to the hostel? In any event, we had to leave a couple of our bikes propped up on the side of the hostel.
Alternative: Castlebay Hotel
We spoke with two other groups of cyclists who stayed here and enjoyed it; apparently the food is good too.
Where we ate
- Lunch at Vatersay Community Hall – basic fare, but well done and at a very fair price.
- Dinner at Kimisul Castle – surprisingly tasty Indian food.
- Barra Community Shop is a treasure trove of food and crafts. There’s also a Co-Op.
Day 2: Castlebay (Barra) to Daliburgh (South Uist) via Eriskay
Summary
From Barra to South Uist via Eriskay (including a ferry and a mile-long causeway). The route covers rugged terrain with plentiful stunning sea views, wildflower-ridden machair grasses and pretty beaches.
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Notes
Barra
We headed inland from Castlebay, past the village of Borve to the right and some spectacular stretches along the coastline.
Optional diversion: We took the short diversion to Barra airport; the vast sandy beach doubles as a runway, with signs reminding people not to walk on the beach when the windsocks are flying! Apparently, it’s the only airport in the world where scheduled flights use a beach as a runway.
For planespotter-types out there, it would be worth trying to coincide your itinerary with watching a plane landing here.
The Barra to Eriskay ferry runs five times a day; it’s a pretty 40 minute crossing to Eriskay. The ferry port is diminutive but the café booth serves up some deliciously calorific looking cakes.
Eriskay
The ferry lands at Eriskay. It does feel pretty remote here; as you pull into Eriskay there’s barely a building in view on the rugged cliff sides.
It’s a pull up from the landing slip to the top of the hill, passing the spectacular Bonnie Prince Charlie beach to your left. The views from the top are spectacular, with 180 degree panoramas over cliffs, beaches and dotted houses below.
The AM Politician pub seems to be “the thing” for this island; blue signposts guide you the 2.5 kilometres from the ferry. It’s an unprepossessing looking 60s pub, built in a gorgeous spot just behind the dunes where the SS Politician sank, along with 28,000 cases of whisky. The event was immortalised in a famous 1949 film, Whiskey Galore, and this popular pub is still reaping the rewards of this historical connection. (The food reviews are also great but they weren’t serving when we turned up as there was a big cycling event passing through.)
From the pub you head up, past St Michael’s Church on the hillock (famous for having part of a boat as an altar), then down to the impressive mile long causeway. It really is a stunning ride, with water either side and just a couple of metres above the sea. The causeway was only built in 2001!
South Uist
The first few kilometres on South Uist are beautiful, the road looping around a pretty bay and then along the coast to Kilkady. Sadly, the old house here is long gone, and the café and hostel buildings next door are not much to look at. Just over the sand dunes is a gorgeous beach with more historical connection. St Bride is said to have stepped ashore here with an oystercatcher on each wrist.
You turn inland just after Kilbride, and the landscape is flat and wild, with the odd house and derelict building. It looks like there could be a trend of people building a new house in the grounds of the old house, which is then left to decay.
Two large churches dominate the horizon of Daliburgh. There’s a decent size Co-Op and a Post Office too.
Optional diversion: Later in the day, we checked out the ancient Bronze Age site of Hallan. The Uist Unearthed app promised Augmented AI to provide an insight into what the original roundhouses would have looked like.
But sadly we couldn’t get the app to work! Tucked into the dunes behind the incredibly long beach, and sheltered from some of the wind, they certainly picked a romantic spot. There are a handful of Bronze Age sites like this on South Uist; history-lovers could spend some time here.
Highlights
- Ferry ride from Barra to Eriskay. The guidebook suggested seals, gannets and terns are common; we didn’t see any seals, but it was still a gorgeous trip.
- Riding the Eriskay to South Uist Causeway.
- The coastal roads in the first few kilometres of South Uist were a joy to ride.
Where we stayed
We really enjoyed our stay here; for the price point, it offered clean, comfortable accommodation (including line and towels), a kitchen, dining room and free access to a washing machine. The kind caretakers were also happy for us to use their tumble dryer and toasty warm drying room. Great bike shed complete with electric sockets for those on e-bikes.
Where we ate
- Dinner at the Borrodale Hotel – tasty pub fare.
- Lunch – bars and snacks as the AM Politician on Eriskay wasn’t serving until 1pm due to a cycling event.
Day 3: Daliburgh (South Uist) to Bayhead (North Uist) via Benbecula and Grimsay
Summary
The ride continues through wild, remote moor and loch filled landscapes of South Uist, Benbecula and Grimsay, reaching North Uist. The terrain is pretty flat, the views are water-filled.
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Notes
Daliburgh to Bornish, South Uist
This ten kilometre stretch of our Hebridean way cycle itineray is on the main road, which heads almost due north on a long, straight road. The terrain is gently undulating, and runs through windswept moorland, with the sea to your left (but not visible) and hills on the right. Being the main north to south road, there’s more traffic here than earlier stretches of the route, but there are plenty of passing places.
There’s a sign to Flora MacDonald’s birthplace – she’s bit of a local legend, so worth reading up if you’re interested in the history of the islands.
Just after is the Kildonean Museum; not yet open when we passed, but it also houses a café and toilets, which might be worth knowing about.
Bornish to Howberg, South Uist
The next ten kilometres provide a respite from the never-ending main road. It takes you on a pretty side road, past crofts and behind a sea wall through densely flowered machair grasses. As you head back inland, the road twists and turns past loch after loch, towards the rugged highest hills of South Uist. Just before you hit the main road again, there’s a signpost for a memorial to Neil MacDonald, “the French MacDonald” – again one for the historians to read up on if interested.
Howbeg to Causeway to Benbecula
The next 13 kilometres or so passes through low machair farmland and large inland lochs. Looking on the map you get the impression of quite how watery this landscape is, with loch after loch. You cross over the Loch Bi causeway, loch-studded moorland to Aird Mhor and then on to the causeway to Benbecula.
Benbecula
The road follows the coastline through more low, machair farmland and some large inland lochs.
At the brow of a hill you come to a graveyard with the ruins of a medieval nunnery. Opposite is an old steadings, which now houses South Uist’s Downpour distillery. There’s a plaque on the front of it commemorating the 1923 land raid. Balivanich, a little further on, is an unprepossessing place, though it’s home to a supermarket and nearby café if you need to stop.
From here it’s a short distance to the start of the five-mile North Ford Causeway across the watery sands to Grimsay and North Uist.
Causeway to Bayhead
The causeway takes you across the watery landscape of Oitir Mhor bay. Keep an eye out for your sixth island, Grimsay, as otherwise you’ll blink and miss it.
Optional diversion: There is a well thought of detour you can do here that provides a loop of Grimsay, passing the Grimsay Community Centre, spinning mill and the fishing port at Ceallan. Unfortunately the Hebridean weather and time were against us, so we didn’t do this.
North Uist
Once on North Uist, the loch-filled landscape continues as you head northwest, the road hugging the coast, until you come to the village of Bayhead, with the Bayhead Stores and small petrol station.
Part of this route on North Uist is known as The Committee Road. It was built in the 1840s to provide famine relief work; workers were paid in meals.
Highlights
- North Ford Causeway is an impressive chain of causeways and bridges across the bay, connecting three islands.
- The colourful mix of wildflowers within the machair grasses, particularly on Benbecula and North Uist.
- A feel for the crofting way of life, with the balance of low moor covered hills, watery fishing villages and intricate inland lochs. We saw plenty of evidence of peat cutting too.
Where we stayed
A bunkhouse with lovely views across the water and small pods with grass roofs. We stayed in the bunk room inside the main building. Nice communal kitchen and dinning room table. No bike shed. Communal bathrooms.
Where we ate
- Lunch at The Stepping Stones Restaurant in Balivanich.
- Dinner at Westford Inn, marketed as North Uist’s only pub. Good food. Note that getting here requires a few extra kilometres of riding to and from The Tractor Shed.
Day 4: Bayhead (North Uist) to Lochmaddy (North Uist)
Summary
A short, relatively flat but picturesque day of riding, past inland lochs and sandy coastal bays.
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Notes
Bayhead to Loch Scolpaig
The day starts with a gentle uphill to the Paiblesgarry Land Raid Memorial. You descend the other side and then turn left off the main road towards the RSPB reserve. It’s a lovely, short detour off the main road, past a pretty bay and through machair and past small crofts. The machair gives way to moorland and you come over the brow of a hill to the view over Loch Scolpaig.
Loch Scolpaig to Lochmaddy
A little further on, the skyline becomes filled with the South Harris hills and, in the nearer distance, Vallay Island, with its abandoned mansion. You ride around Traigh Bhalaigh bay, which is a stunning sandy bay around which a few new builds are popping up alongside the older houses.
You continue on with watery views to your left and pass the turning to Berneray. This is where you temporarily leave the Hebridean Way, riding to Lochmaddy for your overnight accommodation with gorgeous views to accompany you.
Highlights
- Machair grasses along the coast are flower-filled and glorious.
- Loch Scolpaig is home to a castellated folly built in the 1830s as a famine relief project. Apparently you can access it by stepping stones when the water is low (it wasn’t when we were there!). It’s also meant to be one of the most photographed views in Scotland.
- The vast open sands of Traigh Bhalaigh bay are a joy to see and to ride around.
Where we stayed
This three star hotel makes a nice “luxury” after the hostels. We had a nice room with a spectacular sea facing view. Pity about the tepid water in the bathroom and the lacklustre service on Sunday.
Alternative: Gatliff Hostel on Berneray. We didn’t stay here but we heard good things from fellow cyclists.
Where we ate
- It was Sunday and, as warned by the guidebooks, the odd café we passed (for example at Traigh Bhalaigh bay), was closed. We had a picnic by Traigh Bhalaigh bay instead.
- Dinner at Lochmaddy Hotel.
Day 5: Lochmaddy, North Uist, to Drinishader, Harris via Berneray
Summary
A final few kilometres on North Uist, and mere minutes on tiny Berneray, before heading to gorgeous Harris. Once on Harris, it’s time to find your hill-riding legs and enjoy some of the most dramatic landscapes of the Hebridean Way.
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Notes
Lochmaddy, North Uist to Berneray
You ride back through the beautiful loch-filled landscape to the turning for Berneray. If you’re short on time, the ferry port is immediately on your right as you cross onto Berneray.
Optional diversion: We headed a little further into Berneray village and made good use of the Berneray Shop, which also has a bistro attached to it. A little further on, you come into the village set around the pretty marina. Berneray today has a population of around 130.
For those with more time, West Beach on Berneray is also worth a pit stop! This epic 3-mile sandy beach was voted 3rd in Lonely Planet’s Top 20 Best beaches in Europe in 2021! It’s a stunning spot for a wild camp.
Berneray to Leverburgh, Harris
The hour-long ferry ride from the diminutive ferry port at Berneray is gorgeous; the ferry weaves in and out of the markers and dotted rocks and uninhabited islands. We spotted dolphins (or were they porpoises?!) on the way.
You disembark in Leverburgh; Lord Leverhulme planned to transform it into a major fishing port but locals didn’t trust his plans and they were shelved.
There’s a big decision to be made in Leverburgh.
Do you follow the classic Hebridean Way route west, via the Hebrides’ most famous beaches, on a two-way road with slightly less climbing?
Or do you take the single track “Golden Road” (so named because it cost so much to build!) along the quieter, more undulating east coast? They’re both dramatic roads to ride but also dramatically different.
We opted for the western route – but got a taste for the east coast road on day 6 – see below.
Note: the GPS route above shows the eastern route on Harris; in fact we changed our mind and rode the classic western route!
Leverburgh to Seilebost Beach
This has to be one of the most scenic coastal roads in Europe. And for a main road in such a beautiful location, we couldn’t believe how few cars there were.
You start with a climb out of Leverburgh and soon come to the beautiful loch and Scarista beach near Northton, which sits under the looming heights of Ceapabhal.
You head north between sand dunes and grassy fields. The road rises and falls, with dramatic beaches and wild hillsides to gaze at all the way along and the North Harris hills in the distance. Note names such as Nisabost, Horgabost and Seilebost in case you want/have time to come back for a beach day in future!
You cross the brow of the hill after Seilebost and see the vast sandy (or watery, depending on tides!) estuary to your left. It’s quite a sight.
Optional diversion: Luskentyre
At the head of the estuary, if you have time, take the three mile (4.8 kilometre) ride along the estuary to Luskentyre beach. It’s a gorgeous ride and Luskentyre beach is thought by many to be the most spectacular beach in the Outer Hebrides. Bear in mind that it’s also three miles (4.8 kilometres) back again!
Note: this diversion is not shown in the GPS route above.
Seilebost Beach to Drinishader
From the head of the estuary, you start to climb, first over salt-marsh and then past rock-studded moorland. If you need a break, take a moment and drink in the views back over the estuary.
It’s a steady climb to the top of the 500-metre pass, often made harder by a headwind. Expect cars to pass you at speed.
You take the second right after the top of the pass and there’s a fast, straight descent from the main road with cracking views over to the Isle of Skye. This is the start of the Golden Road and the rollercoaster road through rocky “moonscape”, past lochs and dotted houses, is a great taste of what to expect if you take on more of Harris’ Golden Road.
About 2.5 miles (4 kilometres) from the turn, you come to the hamlet of Drinishader, set around a rocky cove.
Highlights
- Berneray to Harris ferry ride, passing islet after islet and with stunning island and sea views.
- The golden sands and turquoise waters of the western coast of Harris, especially Seilebost and Luskentyre.
- The rugged mountains of Harris, with its rock-strewn moorland.
Where we stayed
A small hostel in an old building with a nice kitchen and living room, complete with log burner. We were in the four-bedroom ground floor bunk room which had a tiny en suite shower and toilet. Creaky floorboards and staircase from the ceiling above!
Our friendly host who greeted us on arrival was happy for us to keep our bikes in the shed used for kayak storage.
Where we ate
- Lunch at the Butty Van, Leverburgh – great bacon butties, cooked to order, tasty but patience required.
- Cheeky drink from the Isle of Harris Brewery, Leverburgh – tasty beer, brewed on site, amazing views from the restaurant
- Cooked dinner ourselves at No. 5 Drinishader.
Day 6 (rest day): Drinishader, North Harris to Tarbert, North Harris
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Summary
This was largely a rest day for us, with sections of Golden Road offering spectacular views and a sense of solitude.
Notes
Time for a taste of cycling the Harris east coast road…
We turned right out of the door from No. 5 and straight onto the Golden Road.
We only rode as far as Grosebay, as we were meeting friends in Tarbert, but you could ride as much or as little as you want as an out and back (or even ride a loop of South Harris and re-ride the west coast road you rode yesterday).
The east coast road really is spectacular; it feels so different to the island’s western road due to the fact its single track and a never-ending assault of short ramps up and down. The scenery is also different; you are further inland much of the time and the views are over rocky moorland with numerous inland lochs, rather than the sweeping west coast beaches.
Also worth mentioning is the Clo Mor Harris Tweed exhibition in Drinishader; it was closed when we were there (although signs suggested it should have been open).
Descent to Tarbert
Back at No. 5 again, we took the road back up to the main road and descended to Rodean Guesthouse. Take care on the descent; the wind can be very gusty and strong. There can also be quite a few cars on the road, especially around ferry times.
In the afternoon we headed into Tarbert. It’s a pretty town, set around the harbour, and apparently home to a third of Harris’ residents. If gin and/or whisky are your thing, book ahead and go on one of the well-reviewed distillery tours.
Another option (or add on an extra rest day as we did!): spend the day on the beach. Either ride or get the excellent local bus (to find out times, go to the website) back along the west coast road to one of the beaches (note you can flag the bus down from the main road; you don’t have to be exactly at the stop mentioned in the timetable). We chose Nisabost as its spectacular, you can walk up to the Macleod Stone and there’s a café nearby (Talla Na Mara; in my opinion, nice food but lavishly priced).
Highlights
- The solitude and rugged natural beauty of Harris’s eastern coastline.
- Tarbert, the capital of Harris. It’s got a couple of nice restaurants, a few shops and the well-known distillery.
Where we stayed
Rodean B&B is on the main road, a couple of kilometres before Tarbert. We found it very comfortable, with a kind host who even did a load of washing and drying for us and shared local knowledge. Good breakfast and wifi. No bike shed.
Where we ate
- Harris Hotel – charmingly old-fashioned, housed in an old Victorian building, complete with gun room and formal dinning room. Tasty food.
- Pierhouse Café and Restaurant – modern and connected with the Hotel Hebrides.
- Isle Coffee Harris – friendly and a great cortado by the marina.
Day 7: Tarbert, Harris to Achmore, Lewis
Summary
Ride onto your tenth and final island via the biggest climb of the route. Then onto windswept moorland and lochs, leaving behind the singletrack roads as you head north to Lewis’ relatively busier roads.
It’s no wonder it feels a little different; Lewis is home to two-thirds of the Outer Hebrides’ population and almost half of these live in towns.
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Notes
Tarbert, Harris to Lewis
You leave Tarbert and have a few kilometres of warm up before the pass leading from Harris to Lewis. The main road climbs over three kilometres to the 799-metre pass between Clisham and Sgaoth Aird, which tower overhead.
The first part of the climb, just after Ardhasaig, which is close to the old whaling station at Loch Bun, is the steepest. After that the gradients relax a little, though there are lots of hidden summits!
The climb feels like you’re in proper mountain country and the vistas are accompanied by many lochs. Loch Seaforth is particularly impressive, viewed from the road above. The wild landscape of rocks, bogs and mountains is a big part of why Lewis is so popular as a place to visit. Apparently, it also has one of the densest populations of golden eagles in Europe.
There’s a quick descent down, through boulder fields and seeping wide curves, to the border with Lewis.
Lewis to Achmore
A rolling nine kilometres take you from the Lewis border through community planted woodland, moorland and the head of Loch Seaford to Arivruaich.
After Arivruaich you cross to Loch Erisort and climb through Balallan. You descend to Lafayette and then turn north across loch-strewn moorland. You pass a concrete four-quartered bus shelter at the Keose junction. These bus shelters are built like this to ensure those waiting can always find some protection from the fierce winds!
Heading west over the moor, you pass a pizza van near Loch Thota Bridein and then climb to the village of Achmore, which sits alone on the exposed moorland, the only village in Lewis that’s not close to the sea. The views here run miles south over acres of open moorland to the Harris hills.
Highlights
- The views from the top of the pass between Clisham and Sgaoth Aird, over Loch Seaford, are impressive.
- The descent from the pass is also fun, if it’s not too windy.
- We enjoyed our stop at the community café and museum in Balallan; such spots give an amazing flavour for the strength and close-knit fabric of the local community. The cake was excellent too…
Where we stayed
A comfortable B&B with generous provision of bath products and self-service breakfast. Maggie was happy for us to use her washing machine and she also cooked us dinner as there’s nowhere to eat in the village. The views across the moorland are spectacular.
Where we ate
- Lunch at Balallan Community Café – a genuine, welcoming café. They also directed us to Lochs Services, a food shop just off route, which allowed us to resupply on snacks. We didn’t spot any other shops between here and the Ardhasaig general stores, just before the pass on Harris.
- Dinner at Westend B&B, as described above.
Day 8: Achmore, Lewis to Borve, Lewis
Summary
Today’s ride takes you through the heart of Lewis. The terrain is more relaxed than yesterday, and there are some interesting cultural sites too.
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Notes
The route is gorgeous between Achmore and the junction for Stornoway, just before Barvas. The road felt quieter to us than the previous day, perhaps because on this stretch you’re between the two turn-offs for Stornoway, rather than being on a road leading to Stornoway. Stornoway draws commuters and shoppers from Harris and all over Lewis.
Despite the fact we noticed more traffic, the landscape still feels remote and wild, dominated by moorland, lochs and wildflowers. From the map you see that the sea is pretty close, but we only caught glimpses (though admittedly, the weather was not ideal!).
Optional diversion: if you have the time, you might want to explore the Uig penninsula with its fantastic beaches and coastal scenery. This is where the famous Lewis Chessmen were found in the 1800s (thought to be made by the Vikings, 800 years ago, from walrus tusks and whale teeth).
Callanish standing stones
The rain was hammering down when we arrived at the Callanish Standing Stones. We were told the visitor’s centre would be shut for the next 18 months, undergoing refurbishment.
And yet, despite the weather, there was something special about this collection of ancient stones, dating from around 5,000 years ago, centred around a 4.8 metre high stone. You’ll have noticed signs for other Callanish stone sites before you reach the main site; the area was obviously extremely important, though it’s still unclear why.
What is immediately obvious however, is how impressive the spot is; the wide views over moor and lochs can’t fail to impress (even 5,000 years on in driving rain).
Arnol Blackhouse
Another ten kilometres or so further on, you come to the brown sign for the Arnol Blackhouse. It’s worth the short diversion from the route.
The site is run by Historic Scotland and consists of a restored blackhouse and the white house that replaced it. There’s also a small exhibition and shop. The blackhouse is fascinating because it’s been fully restored, and includes a lit peat fire. It gives you a real sense of what it must have been like living here, complete with tar-smoked ceiling.
All that’s missing are the fish being cured on the rafters and animals that would have lived in the stable adjoining the living room! The quotes from the exhibition give a sense of people’s experience of the Blackhouse, which were lived in until 1966.
Interestingly, the white house was never properly lived in, because due to insufficient quantities of lime mortar, the house was never properly damp-proof and sadly, all its residents got pneumonia while living there.
An Airigh
A little further up the main road, on the right-hand side at the brow of a hill, you find a reproduction stone shieling. It’s worth a stop, especially if you’ve been to Arnol Blackhouse and so have a sense of what a shieling is and the important part they played in community life.
Highlights
- The mysterious Callanish Standing Stones.
- A taste of 1880s Lewis life at the Blackhouse at Arnol.
- The quiet, remote landscapes and bright pink heathers and wildflowers between Achmore and the junction for Stornoway.
Where we stayed
We were given a friendly welcome and not only was there an undercover bike shed, but the staff were happy for us to use their boiler room to dry out our wet kit. Our room was huge and this was our kids favourite place we stayed.
Alternative: The Cross Inn Butt of Lewis – we’ve heard great things about this inn that’s just another 10 kilometres or so up the road from Borve Country House Hotel. The pub at the back of the inn serves great food, has a cosy atmosphere and is popular with locals.
Where we ate
- Carloway Community Shop – We called in here for a quick drink, and to briefly escape the rain. There’s a small café attached to the warm and welcoming well-provisioned shop.
- Bragar Community Hall – We were relived to come to the Community Hall in Bragar, complete with undercover bike racks. It’s home to an excellent café.
- Borve Country House Hotel – high-quality, well-presented food.
Day 9: Borve to the Butt of Lewis (optional: back to Stornoway)
Summary
The final leg of the journey leads you to the Butt of Lewis and the end of the Hebridean Way. We then headed for Stornoway, the largest town in the Outer Hebrides, and the ferry to Ullapool.
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Notes
Borve to the Butt of Lewis
It’s a long, straight road, that rises and falls on its route across the moors, parallel with the coast. When we rode it, we rode straight into a headwind!
You take a left after the village of Cros, and head uphill towards the lighthouse, which soon comes into view. Built in 1862, the lighthouse was automated in 1998. We were there in relatively good weather, but beware that it’s exposed and can be a dangerous spot in bad weather. The cliffs are crumbly and there are no rails. Take care.
Don’t miss the metal Hebridean Way sign in front of the lighthouse marking the end of the Hebridean Way. You’ve made it and successfully completed the Hebridean Way cycle challenge!
Time and weather allowing, there’s also a beautiful beach at the Butt of Lewis that makes a great place for a celebratory dip (for those feeling brave enough to face the icy Scottish waters…). Just make sure it’s a suitably safe day for swimming.
Butt of Lewis to Stornoway
We returned the way we came, over the moor, past Borve Country House Hotel and back to the junction at Barvas.
Barvas to Stornoway was not a highlight, but of course is also not an official part of the Hebridean Way. The road is busy and the road feels never-ending as it crosses the bleak, windswept, desolate moor. The most interesting thing about it are the deep peat cuttings on both sides of the road, many of which are still worked today.
Arriving in Stornoway feels like arriving back into the 21st Century! The town centre is congregated around the harbour and high on the hill above sits Lews Castle.
Highlights
- The Butt of Lewis Lighthouse. The 37 metre high, brick-built lighthouse is one of over 200 lighthouses located around Scotland. It is in the Guinness Book of Records as the windiest spot in Scotland.
- The colourful harbour of Stornoway, with its shops and restaurants.
- Lews Castle and its grounds – our kids loved the augmented reality app that allows you to look around rooms in the castle (when they’re not in use for events and weddings). The museum is also excellent and includes a display of six of the intricately carved Lewis Chessman.
Where we stayed
This is a comfortable hotel with generous beds and expensive-looking curtains. We were in a room at the front of the hotel, with a lovely view of the harbour, but not recommended for light sleepers. A room at the back might be better. Bike storage is in a storage room at the Royal Hotel’s sister hotel five-ten minutes walk away.
Where to eat
- Old Barn Bar – behind the Cross Inn. We didn’t eat here but the food is well thought of.
- Borve Country House Hotel – this is where we stayed the previous night and would be an option for lunch on the way back.
- There’s also a small grocery ship in Borve and at Barvas. We stopped at Barvas, which also serves hot food weekdays only. There’s a community hall next door, but no café there as far as we could see.
- The Boathouse Restaurant – within the Royal Hotel, this is a great restaurant with excellent cocktails and delicious food.
What are the highlights of the Hebridean Way?
There is some overlap here with the section above on why you would ride the Hebridean Way!
However, here are some highlights that hone in on specific moments from our Outer Hebrides cycle tour rather than the broader themes:
- Arriving on the ferry at the tiny village of Castlebay after a 4 hour 45 minute sea crossing, it feels like you’re arriving at the edge of the world.
- Pristine white sandy beaches of Vatersay, Eriskay, Barra and Harris.
- Rugged, mountains of Harris, particularly the quiet east coast.
- The chance to explore ten islands in one holiday. In our opinion, this is one of the best long distance cycle routes in Scotland. The route also provides an amazing feeling for what it would be like to live in this remote outpost of the UK.
- The strong sense of community, including honesty boxes, community halls, history societies, music festivals and ceilidh dances we saw advertised.
- Experiencing a very low crime society. We were repeatedly told there was no need to lock up our bikes and at a number of the places we stayed, the hosts just left the front door open so we could let ourselves in. That’s definitely not the situation in many parts of the UK!
- Rich and ancient cultural heritage along the way including ancient history in the form of the Callanish Standing Stones, to more recent history in the form of the Lewis Chessman, Arnol Blackhouse, Kisimul Castle in Castlebay, shipwrecks such as the SS Politician and tragedy of HMY Lolaire which sank outside Stornoway on 1 January 2919, with the loss of 205 Hebrides men returning after the end of the First World War.
- Meeting locals in community halls and B&Bs, seeing the prevalence of local Gaelic-speaking communities (around half of the 27,000 people in the Outer Hebrides can speak Gaelic) and peat still being cut from the bogs in the same way it has been done for hundreds of years.
- Seeing a dolphin/porpoise swimming just a few metres from us on Nordibost beach in Harris. We had hoped to see more wildlife, as there are frequent mentions of seals, otters and eagles, so this moment was particularly special.
- Ferry and causeway crossings provided some of the most beautiful and unusual perspectives of the watery landscapes.
- The 37 metre high Butt of Lewis lighthouse, the northernmost point of the Isle of Lewis. The headland has a rugged beauty and the striking cliffs rise sharply from the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a place where the power of nature is on full display, with waves crashing against the rocks and seabirds soaring above.
Things to be aware of when cycling the Hebridean Way between Vatersay and the Butt of Lewis
Weather
The Outer Hebrides are known for their unpredictable weather conditions. You can often experience all four seasons in a single day. Strong winds, rain, and sudden temperature changes are common.
One thing is for sure, the unpredictable headwinds and rain will play a big part in how arduous cycling the Outer Hebrides will feel to you.
As a result of this, waterproofs, layers, and wind-resistant garments are essential to ensure you stay comfortable and safe. Also make sure that the bags you carry your luggage in are properly waterproof and done up properly.
Remoteness
While this is part of the appeal of cycling the Hebridean Way, it is important to realise that amenities and services are few and far between. There aren’t many shops and you need to plan your supplies carefully, to make sure you have enough food, water, and bike kit.
Don’t rely on shops and cafes necessarily being open. Don’t expect to see any bike shops (though there are various businesses dotted throughout the islands).
It’s a good idea to carry a basic repair kit and know how to fix common issues like punctures. Ensure your bike is in great condition before setting out and that anything that needs charging on it (like the derailleur if you have electric shifting) is fully charged and will be able to last the distance (and some).
Mobile phone signal can be patchy in some areas, so having a map or bike computer with your route and knowing the basics of your plan for the day is important.
The Outer Hebrides feels very rugged and remote…
Terrain
The terrain along the Hebridean Way is varied and can be challenging in places. While there are plenty of flat and gentle sections, some parts of the route involve steep climbs and descents, particularly on Harris and Lewis. Cyclists should be prepared for these physical challenges and ensure they have a suitable bike for mixed terrain.
Training beforehand to build endurance and strength will help make the journey more enjoyable. You can find more detailed tips here.
Respect the environment
The Outer Hebrides are a special place with a fragile natural environment. Be respectful; don’t trample or pick the wildflowers, don’t leave litter, camp in a responsible way, respect the islanders and their way of life.
What are your best tips for planning a tour of the Hebridean Way?
A quiet road on the Isle of Harris
Which way should you cycle the Hebridean Way?
You can cycle in either direction. We chose to ride from south to north as this is (meant to) take advantage of the prevailing wind. It has to be said though that this is a rule of thumb, since we certainly got our fair share of headwind cycling from south to north!
How hilly is the Hebridean Way route?
The route is hilly in places, but these are not dramatically long or steep hills. The biggest pass is between Harris and Lewis; see more info above.
Taking on the Harris hills!
Is the Hebridean Way signposted?
Yes, the route is signposted with blue signs with the white Hebridean Way logo on them. We found the route marking pretty visible and reliable.
Hebridean sign near the Butt of Lewis
What is the best time of year to cycle the Hebridean Way?
The best time to cycle the Hebridean Way is during late spring and summer, from May to September. During these months, the weather tends to be milder, with longer daylight hours and fewer rain showers (but be prepared for rain, wind and cold temperatures at any time of year!). Spring brings blooming wildflowers and vibrant landscapes, while summer offers the warmest temperatures and plenty of musical festivals.
Be aware that midges can be a nuisance in mid summer and when there’s no wind. This is especially the case if you’re camping. During our visit in early July, we weren’t camping, but didn’t experience any problems with midges. Ticks can also be an issue, though again we didn’t encounter any ourselves.
Sunshine and clouds in Harris
What kind of bike do you need to ride the Hebridean Way?
The route is 100% asphalt, so a road bike will be fine if you don’t have much luggage. If you have more luggage, an adventure or gravel bike with hybrid tyres, would be a good choice. We also saw cyclists on classic touring bikes.
Whatever kind of bike you’re riding, make sure it is well-maintained before you set out.
What kit should cyclists bring to cycle the Hebridean Way?
Pack versatile clothing that will adapt to changing weather conditions.
Essential items include a waterproof jacket, waterproof gloves, thermal layers, and wind-resistant clothing.
Carry a basic repair kit with spare tubes, a pump, and tools.
If you are keen to see some wildlife, a pair of binoculars would come in handy.
Leave your deep section wheels at home! If you catch some wild and windy weather, you’ll be glad.
Spending money on decent tyres will also pay dividends – the roads are rough and gravelly in places.
This article contains more general packing list tips.
Our bike set up for the Hebridean way…
How many days does it take to cycle the Hebridean Way?
The Hebridean Way is typically cycled in six or seven days, which allows for a comfortable pace and time to enjoy the scenery and attractions. However, the duration can be adjusted based on your fitness level and sightseeing interests.
Some may complete it faster (we met a few people riding it in three days) while others (like us!) may prefer a more leisurely pace, taking ten to twelve days, and stopping to spend time on detours and cultural visits.
The Hebridean Way was officially opened in March 2016, when Mark Beaumont cycled the route in 24 hours. Since then, others have also ridden it within a day.
What are the road surfaces like on the Hebridean Way?
The Hebridean Way follows mostly A-roads. However, when cycling in the UK, you’ll understand that there are A-roads and A-roads. Most of the Hebridean Way route is on quiet, single-track roads with low traffic and plenty of passing places.
Some sections, particularly on Harris and Lewis, include challenging climbs and descents. On Harris and Lewis most of the roads are two-ways, with more traffic and less passing places.
Don’t expect segregated bike paths or hard shoulders to ride in.
The road surfaces on the Hebridean Way vary. Overall we found the road surfaces were in good repair, but there were potholes and rough patches too.
Another quiet low traffic road on the Hebridean Way cycle route
Is the Hebridean Way suitable for riding with children?
The Hebridean Way can be suitable for riding with older children who have experience and confidence with cycling in mixed weather, with traffic and longer distances. The distance involved, varied terrain and occasional steep sections might be challenging for younger children or children who aren’t used to multi-day cycling trips.
Breaking the route into segments, planning shorter daily distances and ensuring regular breaks can make the journey more enjoyable for families.
And one particular point to note: if your children aren’t used to cattle grids, make sure you give them a lesson on how to ride them safely, before you encounter the first one and they fall off… There are lots of cattle grids in the Outer Hebrides!
This article contains tips for planning a family friendly cycling holiday.
How fit do you have to be to ride this route?
Cycling the Hebridean Way requires a moderate level of fitness. The route includes flat sections and challenging climbs, so it’s beneficial to have a good base level of endurance and strength. Regular bike rides, including some hills, before the trip will help you tackle the more demanding parts of the route comfortably.
This article contains tips for planning long distance cycling trips.
Is it easy to find cycling-friendly accommodation on the Hebridean Way?
Remember to double-check accommodation bike storage arrangements (and any other services you need) before booking as policies often change.
There are plenty of places to stay along the Hebridean Way, ranging from B&Bs and guesthouses to hostels and campsites. However, if you don’t want to camp, your options will be limited if you’re only staying one night in each place as many places have two or three night minimum stays.
If you don’t want to camp, the most important thing to remember is that it’s vital to book well in advance, especially during peak season. We booked in March for our family of four travelling from 1 July; it was hard to find good quality accommodation by this time, especially as we were only looking for one-night stays. We found it was necessary to detour from the main route due to accommodation shortages.
Another observation is that while many places are happy for cyclists to stay, they don’t have any cycling specific amenities and expect bikes to be left outside. Always check before you book if you have specific requirements.
What is the local food and drink like on the Hebridean Way?
The Outer Hebrides has an up-and-coming food scene; there’s a new foodie trail which highlights some of the best places to eat and drink along the route.
Seafood is a highlight, with fresh fish, scallops, and mussels being local specialities.
You can also enjoy traditional Scottish dishes such as black pudding, haggis, and smoked salmon. Don’t miss trying Stornoway black pudding (not for the veggies out there!).
Oatcakes and shortbread are also classic Scottish fare. If you like creamy desserts, keep an eye out for Cranachan on the menu.
For drinks, sample local whiskies, gins and craft beers available direct from the distilleries and breweries. Isle of Harris gin, Downpour gin from Uist, Machair gin and whisky from Benbecula and the beer from the Isle of Lewis brewery all stand out!
Are there many cafés, shops, and restaurants on the Hebridean Way?
While there are cafés, shops, and restaurants along the Hebridean Way cycle route, they can be few and far between, particularly in more remote areas. It’s wise to stock up on essentials whenever you have the chance and plan your meals accordingly.
Though there are small versions of “normal” supermarkets, like Co-Op and Tesco, in some of the bigger towns in the Outer Hebrides, we liked supporting the community-run hubs. They tend to be stocked with everything from food staples and local treats to hand-crafted souvenirs, maps and fishing equipment. The people here are also an excellent source of local knowledge.
It’s also worth mentioning that many museums and art galleries have small tearooms attached to them. So keep an eye out for those if you’re looking for somewhere to stop!
You’ll see honesty boxes dotted throughout the Outer Hebrides, selling everything from eggs to cakes to crafts.
Note that opening hours can be limited, especially out of peak season. Shops (and many cafes) are closed on a Sunday.
Do you need to know Gaelic?
No. Everyone we came across spoke English.
While you don’t need to know how to speak any Gaelic, Gaelic seemed to be an important part of the local culture and we learned that Gaelic has made a big come back here recently. You’ll see signposts in Gaelic as well as English (usually with Gaelic first in large letters).
Are there any good books to read or good cycling maps about the Hebridean Way?
Several resources can help you prepare for cycling the Hebridean Way.
- “The Hebridean Way: Long Distance Walking and Cycling Route” by Richard Barrett provides comprehensive information about the route.
- Cycling maps from Sustrans and local tourist offices are also valuable for planning your journey.
- If you’re looking for non-fiction, Peter May’s books are popular.
What are the Highway Code rules for cyclists in Scotland?
Cyclists in Scotland must adhere to the Highway Code.
Key rules include wearing a helmet, using lights after dark, and obeying traffic signals and road signs. Cyclists should ride on the left, signal clearly when turning, and use cycle lanes where available. It’s also important to be mindful of pedestrians and other road users.
Here are some additional pointers for riding on the Outer Hebrides’ single track roads:
- Give way to vehicles coming towards you by pulling into a passing place on your side of the road (or stopping opposite one if it’s on the other side of the road).
- Let vehicles behind you to overtake by pulling into a passing place.
- Look out for sheep, cattle, deer and even otters, on the road.
Cycling on the isle of Harris
Do you need cash while cycling on this route?
While many places accept card payments, it’s advisable to carry some cash in local currency (British pounds) for honesty boxes, buses, small shops, cafes, and remote areas where card facilities might not be available (or working due to dodgy wifi!).
How expensive is it to cycle the Hebridean Way?
Cycling the Hebridean Way can be relatively affordable, with costs varying based on accommodation choices and dining preferences.
Budget options include hostels and camping, while mid-range and higher-end accommodations are also available.
Ferry costs, food, and occasional entry fees to attractions such as the Arnol Blackhouse should also be factored into your budget.
What wildlife might you see on the Hebridean Way?
Wildlife is a big part of the Outer Hebrides. However, we’re not great at spotting it, so all we saw were highland cattle, sheep (various breeds), horses and the odd dolphin (which could have been a porpoise).
However, I’ve read that the following are found on the cliffs and seas around the Outer Hebrides: Atlantic Grey Seal, Gannet, Fulmar and Basking Shark.
Is there anything else that cyclists riding the Hebridean Way should know?
It’s important to respect the natural environment and local communities. Follow the Leave No Trace principles by taking all your rubbish with you and avoiding disturbing wildlife.
Be prepared for limited phone signal and ensure you have emergency contact information.
Finally, embrace the spirit of adventure and enjoy the unique beauty and culture of the Outer Hebrides!
Travel logistics for planning a Hebridean Way cycle tour
The information below assumes you’re riding from Vatersay to Lewis.
How do you get to the start of the route (and back again) by ferry?
Oban to Vatersay
You can travel by ferry from Oban to Castlebay, Barra. From Castlebay, it’s a brief cycle or drive to Vatersay. Ferries are equipped to carry bicycles, although it’s not exactly all mod-cons… you lean your bike against a rail and there’s a piece of rope there so you can tie your bike to the rail and stop it falling over.
Stornoway to Ullapool
There are regular ferries from Stornoway to Ullapool. It takes about 2 hours 40 minutes. As with the outbound ferry, you lean your bike against the rail and tie it on.
Where can you leave your car while you ride the route?
For those catching the ferry from Oban and driving to the start of the Hebridean Way, you can pay for longterm parking in Oban. We left our car in the Tesco car park, booked on an intermediary website.
How do you get back from Ullapool to Oban?
There are transfer services that will pick you up in Ullapool and drop you back to Oban.
How do you get to the start of the route (and back again) – by plane?
Barra
The best airport to fly into for starting the Hebridean Way is Barra Airport. This unique airport is located on Traigh Mhor beach, and its runway is on the sand. Flights from Glasgow are the most common and offer a scenic and memorable approach to the Outer Hebrides.
Once you land, if you want to ride the full Hebridean Way, you’ll have to head back to Vatersay, the starting point of the route. Note that you can only take folding bikes on this flight, so you’d need to arrange bike hire if you’re flying in.
Stornoway
At the end of your journey, the best airport to fly out of is Stornoway Airport on the Isle of Lewis. Stornoway Airport offers regular flights to major cities such as Glasgow, Edinburgh, and Inverness. The airport is conveniently located just a few kilometres from Stornoway town centre.
Can you hire bikes in Castlebay?
Yes, you can arrange to hire bikes in Castlebay, but you need to arrange this in advance.
Please provide information on luggage transfer services on the Hebridean Way?
Luggage transfer services are available on the Hebridean Way, allowing you to cycle unencumbered by heavy bags. These services transport your luggage between your accommodation stops, making the cycling easier for you.
Ferry crossings on the Hebridean Way
Hebridean island hopping is a big part of the experience and several ferry crossings are involved, these are essential for linking the various islands along the route. These ferry journeys not only provide practical connections but also offer a unique perspective of the stunning seascapes of the Outer Hebrides.
The ferry crossing from Berneray to Harris
Barra to Eriskay ferry
One of the most picturesque ferry crossings is from Barra to Eriskay. This short journey takes about forty minutes and provides stunning views of the surrounding islands and crystal-clear waters. The ferry departs from the port of Ardmhor on Barra and arrives at the tiny, idyllic island of Eriskay, known for its beautiful beaches and rich history.
Berneray to Leverburgh (Harris) ferry
The ferry crossing from Berneray to Leverburgh on Harris is another key segment of the Hebridean Way. This crossing takes approximately one hour, traversing the Sound of Harris. The ferry route navigates through a scattering of small islands and skerries, offering passengers a chance to spot local wildlife, such as seals and seabirds.
Leverburgh (Harris) to Isle of Skye Ferry (optional extension)
While not part of the standard Hebridean Way route, some cyclists choose to extend their journey by taking the ferry from Leverburgh to Uig on the Isle of Skye. This crossing takes around one hour and forty minutes. The route offers magnificent views of the mountainous landscapes of both Harris and Skye.
General tips for ferry crossings
- Booking: It is advisable to book ferry tickets in advance, especially during peak tourist season, to ensure availability.
- Schedules: Check the ferry schedules ahead of time, as services can be affected by weather conditions.
- Bikes: Ferries are equipped to accommodate bicycles. Be sure to book in your bike if you are travelling with a bike. On most you will get priority boarding ahead of cars!
- Facilities: Onboard facilities vary but typically include seating areas, toilets, and sometimes a café or snack bar.
Disembarking the ferry onto Barra
Are there companies offering supported tours on the Hebridean Way?
Yes, several companies offer supported tours on the Hebridean Way, providing a range of services to enhance your cycling experience.
Get in touch if you are looking for a supported tour and we can connect you with someone able to assist.
Final thoughts
Cycling the Hebridean Way is a fantastic experience that gives you a real flavour for what life living on the extremities of the UK feels like – and how hard and cold it must have been in years gone by. You gain an appreciation for the local culture, history and the relationship with the sea and land.
The landscapes are wild and beautiful, in a remote and often barren kind of a way.
The people we encountered were warm, friendly and proud of their islands. The weather was mixed and temperamental, but then you don’t come to the Outer Hebrides for a sun tan. Cycling these Scottish islands is something I’d recommend to anyone who loves cycling and who has even a passing interest in nature, the sea and Scotland.
The Macleod Stone on Harris, looking down to Nisabost beach
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Clare Dewey is a cyclist with a passion for travel. She set up epicroadrides.com in 2018 to help make it easy for cyclists to explore the world by bike. Today her mission is still inspiring cyclists to discover new places on two wheels – and doing what she can to make sure they have the best possible time while they’re there. Clare has visited 50+ destinations around the world, many of them by bike.
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