Cycling Lisbon to Porto: the Altantic coast of Portugal, Serra da Estrela + more

Notes

Take the N247 west out of the bustling Sintra and freewheel one kilometre before turning a sharp right (it’s easily missed) onto the Rua 25 de Abril and starting your journey north.

Continue north to pick up the Estr. de São Julião and enjoy a dramatic downhill to Praia de São Julião. Overlooking the beach is Gota d’Álcool, a wonderful place for your first Portuguese bica (espresso).

Back on the bike, it’s a climb east on the Estrada Mun, this puts you back on the N247 at the Botão beer hall advertising “bacon and craft ale”, sadly not open until 6 pm! However, turn left and after a few metres you reach ‘Pão com chouriço Celeste Alecrim’, a street food van where you can grab some lunch

After a few kilometres, the N247 will run parallel with the Atlantic Sea. Hopefully, you have arrived in good time to explore the chilled and popular picturesque town.

Points of interest

• The beautiful beach of Praia de São Julião
• Cycling alongside the Atlantic Sea taking in the views of Praia da Foz do Lizandro and Praia do Sul just outside of Ericeira
• At São João das Lampas turn left at the SPAR on the R. Cinco de Outbro and onto the Estr. Do Coval gravel road. You then traverse ‘Ponte Romana de Catribana’ – an ancient Roman bridge. The access road isn’t the best and it’s a dismount,  but worth the visit. From here, return back São João das Lampas and the original route or take on the off-road section and cliff-top views.

Tips

Although the first day is under 30 kilometres it’s still a very lumpy day so prepare for some short, sharp climbs.

Food and drink

• At São João das Lampas there is a water fountain to top up your water bottle and pick up anything from the local shops.
• Pão com chouriço Celeste Alecrim is a tasty street food van in a layby with a seating area.
• Baia Do Sul, R. Belo Horizonte 14-20, 2655-304: this beachside café is on the promenade. Have a beer and a snack on the here before checking into your hotel. It’s a suntrap and a lovely place to watch the world go by.
• Bar Doghouse Social Club, Praça da República 1 1A, 2655-347: this chilled lounge in the square has fantastic food and live music.

Where I stayed in Ericeira

Praia FLH Hotel

It’s been taken over by FLH and had a total refit – it looks amazing. It was good before the refurb! Bikes are stored safely inside.

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Hotel Vila Galé Ericeira

A commanding location at the head of the bay. Amazing breakfast buffet. Bikes are stored safely inside.

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Notes

Morning ride

Heading north out of Ericeira on the N247 offers fantastic views over the Atlantic. You can top at the multitude of viewing points and take in all the beaches and surfing activities, the steep gradients are challenging on the dedicated ride into Ribamar.

Off the cycle lane and onto the N247 you soon make up for any lost time surf spotting and after 12 kilometres you exit the N247 at Barril to make the most of residential backstreets, sleepy towns and coffee shops. Heading north through Carrascais you arrive at Cambelas and take a left to a wonderful gravel track hugging the cliff tops – the Rua Campo da Bola. At the apex, the views to the north are spectacular!

Freewheel down to Praia Azul the beach bar and handy public toilets. Back on tarmac, it’s a short ride to Av. Alto de Vela.

Follow the Alto de Vela into the charmingly busy Santa Cruz and onto the Av. Do Atlantico, the name says it all! Once past Santa Cruz you pick up the N247 and the excellent dedicated downhill cycle lane to Porto Novo. The dogleg right at the Rio Alcabrichel turns into a steep and troublesome short ascent as traffic can be busy and build up behind you!

However, after only 750 metres you take a left onto the R. da Bela Vista and a much more relaxed gradient, gravel/hardpack and no traffic; meandering through the countryside and farm access roads you rejoin the N247 at Sobreirinhos.

The N247 plateaus off and it’s a nice roll north. After an optional rest stop at the Casal de Santa Bárbara petrol station which has a good snack bar and seating area, you leave the N247 once more and take the Estr. Do Atlto Felix heading towards the Atlantic on the Estr. Do Moinhos.

Afternoon ride

At Montoito, follow the Bela Vista and after 300 metres it’s left again on the R. Moinho do Roque – turn left at the windmill! This takes you on to a hardpack clifftop road which opens up onto the most incredible view north of Praia do Areal, the coastal town of Praia da Areia Branca and the Peniche peninsula.

Head down to Praia do Areal Sul and across the duckboards, you skirt the charming Praia da Areia Branca on the beach boulevard. North of the town, head east away from the coast for a short while and back on the 247. Please note there is an optional coastal ride on the Estr. do Paimogo which loops northeast and onto the N247, if time allows!

At Alto Verissimo, bear left on the Rua Antonio Rocha Ferreira and towards the coast and São Bernardino. Follow the R. da Uniao to the terminus and the Largo dos Frades, São Bernardino observation deck for even more stunning views!

Retrace your steps 700 metres east then head north on the R. El Rei Dom Denis and take the immediate left at the fork and onto the R. do Moinho, destination Consolação. Head directly west to the Forte da Praia da Consolação, again offering panoramic views with Peniche clearly in view.

Head north out of town on the Av. Do mar and pick up the Av. Do Golfe and R. Principal and the excellent dedicated bike lane directly into Peniche.

Points of interest

• The Praia Azul beach is a great place to rest, maybe get your feet wet and walk with your bike along the raised boardwalk.
• The Miradouro do Alto da Vela scenic point over Santa Cruz – just wow!
• It’s utterly pleasant weaving through Atalaia and at Portelas on the Estr. Da Bela Vista. There is a stunning vista to the east and rolling hills inland.
• If at all possible, try and extend your stay in Peniche. There’s so much to do and see – I always feel guilty when I leave after one night!

Tips

I really love petrol stations as rest points when solo cycling because when you are inside you can see your bike and usually nothing goes missing! Hence why I decided to include one for my midday lunch stop.

Food and drink

• At Casal de Santa Bárbara there is a great petrol station which offers a good point to rest, it has a nice seated area: Estrada de Santa Bárbara 19, Estrada Nacional 247, 2530-731, Portugal
• Fancy a curry? Try Maharani Peniche
• Fancy a proper drink? Head away from the harbour and walk 2 minutes to the Bar N°1 Peniche. They have an amazing array of craft and artisan beers and snacks in this beautiful and welcoming bar!

Where I stayed in Peniche

Katekero II

Excellent hotel amongst the bars and restaurants on the harbour front. You can store your bike safely inside.

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Notes

Morning ride

Leave Peniche on the cycle lane that arcs the Praia da Cova da Alfarroba to Baleal and the Av. do Mar; here are ample shops and cafes for a coffee or spot of breakfast. After only 750 metres on the Av. Do Mar it’s a left onto a fantastic hardpack including a forest section. Enjoy the silence for five kilometres before reaching Praia D’el Rey and the first of today’s beaches, the Praia d’El Rei / Praia do Béltico. Leave the bay on the M603 and fast-rolling tarmac before the climb to the Royal Óbidos Spa & Golf Resort.

At the top of the climb, enjoy the views inland and the Obidos Lagoon before a fast 2.4 kilometre descent to the head of the lagoon on the M573. Here you can enjoy the lovely lake views and catch a coffee at the O Covão dos Musaranhos restaurant (9QQF+9C Vau, Portugal).

At the head of the lagoon leave the M573 and pick up the popular cycle path then back on the tarmac to Arelho. Bypass the town on the R. da Fonte, climbing east on Estr. Nova. At the crossroads, head north, signposted Foz do Arelho.

Afternoon ride

The R. Q. ta da Barrosa twists, turns, climbs and descends through the countryside and traditional farmsteads with panoramic views. A short forest trail will take you to the R. Nossa Sra. Do Bom Sucesso which eventually has its own separate cycle lane at the edge of the lagoon.

There’s no escaping the climb from Foz do Arelho, but the views over the Atlantic make it worthwhile. You will be heading north on the lumpy ‘Atlantic Avenue’ with multiple opportunities to stop and take in the view. After around 10 kilometres on the outskirts of Salir do Porto you begin your steep descent into São Martinho do Porto.

Leaving São Martinho do Porto climb on the R. Vasco da Gama, heading north to Nazare. You will be traversing the Serra da Pescaria, the mountains offering fantastic views over the Atlantic and inland. There are plenty of opportunities to go exploring closer to the Atlantic as there are marked off-road trails – it’s a lovely 26-kilometre stretch, and at Casal Mota, as you begin your descent into Nazare, you realise just how much you’ve climbed. The views are fantastic!

Welcome to Nazare, home of the largest waves in the world! Like Peniche, try and extend your stay and enjoy the multitude of shops, bars and restaurants flanking the bay and take the escalator to the Farol da Nazaré and enjoy the incredible views.

Points of interest

• Foz do Arelho is hugely popular with touring camper vans, if time allows, have a ride along the bustling boulevard and have a coffee or ice cream at Ala Norte Expresso Bar on the beach at Av. do Mar, 2500-896 Foz do Arelho.
• São Martinho do Porto is a famous, scallop-shaped bay with one of the best beaches in Portugal.
• Nazaré’s big waves attract some of the world’s best surfers and can be a real spectacle to behold; the waves can reach up to a staggering 30 metres high! The biggest of these waves are usually seen between October and March. But they can also be seen in September and April, depending on the conditions. The best place to observe them is on the north side of Nazaré, by the lighthouse.

Tips

When you leave Nazare in the morning there is a very tough three-kilometre climb north. This can be added onto the last day with a stopover in São Pedro de Moel instead of Nazare, it’s a fantastic beachside town 20 kilometres north. Hotel Miramar – São Pedro de Moel is worth considering.

Where I stayed in Nazaré

Adega Oceano Hotel

Lovely ocean-side hotel with a great restaurant. Bike stored safely inside, albeit down a flight of steps.

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Hotel Maré

Fantastic hotel with amazing breakfasts. Bikes are stored safely inside.

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Food and drink

• There are tons of bars and restaurants in Nazare; it’s impossible to single one out, but why not have an ice-cold Guinness at the seafront Irish Bar: Av. Manuel Remígio 5, 2450-106 Nazaré, Portugal
• Staying in São Pedro de Moel? Head to R. Dr. Adolfo Laitao to eat and drink

Notes

Morning ride

The first 20 kilometres is a dedicated and popular cycle track north to São Pedro de Moel; if the wind is favourable you can really get the hammer down but why not take time to explore Vale Furado and have a coffee overlooking the Atlantic? Similarly, the beachside town of São Pedro de Moel is worth a look around.

The cycle path continues to the Farol Penedo da Saudade – a picturesque historical lighthouse located on the jagged cliffs south of Praia Velha. The cycle path turns into a 10-kilometre straight road that is popular with time trialists, before reaching the seaside town of Praia da Vieira with its promenade cafes and handy public toilets.

Leave Praia da Vieira on the cycle path for another straight bolt north of four kilometres to Pedrogão and its promenade of cafes. A good place to split the day.

Afternoon ride

The monotony of ‘straight ahead’ is broken with a deserted twisting, turning and often pot-holed CM1193 northeast before picking up a cycle lane to Guarda do Norte.

Head north on the M1021 for four kilometres. Turn right at the roundabout for a peaceful off-road and forest tarmac section for five kilometres which brings you out on the N109.

The N109 is a busy national road but has a wide hard shoulder, it is also popular with cyclists.

It’s 15 kilometres to the imposing Ponte Edgar Cardoso and your first glimpse of the Mondego River.

Here, the hard shoulder vanishes and you may feel more comfortable on the walkway with barriers; it’s advisable because at the apex the views are fantastic, should you want to stop and take it all in! After the apex, the barrier stops allowing you to join the main carriageway (don’t take the first exit, in fact you are forbidden) and after 300 metres, take the Figuera da Foz exit and join the N111.

This section can be busy. There is an alternative crossing 15 kilometres to the east at Ereira, following the Eurobelo 1 – we will be passing there tomorrow! But now it’s time to enjoy the bustling city of Figuera da Foz.

Points of interest

• Before leaving Nazare, spend some time at the Farol da Nazare to enjoy the elevated views over the Atlantic and south. Better still and get there for sunrise.
• Known as the “Queen of the Beaches”, Figuera has the widest beach in Europe and a big city feel without losing any charm or identity. It is well worth a two-night stay if time allows.

Tips

Be aware! In 2023, I tried taking a workaround to the busy N109 road; it didn’t go well and I ended up trudging through irrigation burrows and private property.

Where I stayed in Figueira da Foz

Vila Gale Collection Figueira da Foz

This is a beachfront hotel and it’s worth getting a sea-view room if you can afford to! Bikes are stored safely inside and there’s a great breakfast.

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Food and drink

• Gusto Pizza by Gusto DiVino, R. Maestro David de Sousa 97 rc, 3080-174 Figueira da Foz: just around the corner to the hotel is one of the best pizzerias I’ve ever visited. It’s an authentic Italian restaurant – do everything you can to get a table, it’s absolutely fantastic!
• 100 Мontaditos, R. Bernardo Lopes 45, 3080-157 Figueira da Foz: according to Wikipedia, there are 450 of these concept bars in 13 countries! Best described as a beer hall with unbelievably cheap sandwiches and snacks. I had never heard of them until I visited the city and I was transfixed, it’s an absolute must. Meal deals for one euro – come on!
• Bar Fifty Two, R. Liberdade 52, 3080-168 Figueira da Foz, Portugal: a really chilled bar with excellent cocktails, beers and laid-back charm. Ultra cool!

Notes

Morning ride

Starting at the Mondego River estuary there is a cycle path that leads you from the busy harbour and promenade and under the Ponte Edgar Cardoso. Be aware! This is a GPS blackout area.

The gravel path follows the train lines before joining a quiet road to the Lares Power Plant; here you will pick up a road that is quite rutted and potholed. Despite this, it is a popular and pleasant 15-kilometre ride on the north bank of the Mondego.

At Ereira you have the option of a river crossing (as an alternative to the Ponte Edgar Cardoso) but carry on until Montemor-o-Velho, where you reach the N347. Turn right on the bridge to cross to the south bank, there are two cafes on R. da Barca should you fancy a coffee.

Cross the Mondego and stay on the N347 to Granja do Ulmeiro where there are shops and cafes aplenty

Be aware! You will see on the GPX that I tried to cut through the train yard but it’s now closed off so I had to double back.

Pick up the N341, a fast rolling road northeast, after two kilometres take a right signposted Formoselha and go over the bridge with lovely panoramic views. At Formoselha, pick up the riverside tarmac road for a magical 15-kilometre run into Coimbra. It’s a popular route with cycle clubs and sheep herders!

After a few hundred metres, the Parque da Cidade Manuel Braga on the banks of the river has plenty of cafes and places to relax; grab a riverfront coffee and relax.

Afternoon ride

At the south of the park, there is an excellent cycle network system that takes you out of the city adjacent to the N17.

It’s five kilometres to the city limits and you reach a roundabout signposted Penacova N110. On the roundabout, there is a snack bar Retiro do Mondego (V. António Ferrer Correia 8 Rés Do Chão, 3030-295 Coimbra) and it’s always popular with bike riders; the roundabout is a certain waypoint and meeting point. Top tip! This is your last opportunity for a breather before a decent climb!

After 20 kilometres at Penacova, you cross the Mondego on the N235. However, it’s worth stopping halfway to take a look around the valley.

As you cross the bridge you are on the N2 which has a cult following and status with cyclists and tourers.

Half a mile south on the N2 is Bar Reconquinho, a great place for a refreshing post-ride beer!

Points of interest

• Coimbra is Portugal’s former capital. It is a medieval old town that offers visitors unrivalled historical and cultural heritage.

Tips

• When you cross the Mondego on the Ponte de Santa Clara it could be really busy, depending on the time of day. You may have to dismount. It’s a great place to admire the cityscape.
• As soon as you go under the railway bridge on the N110 there is a sense of trepidation, but the 20 kilometres that lie ahead is honestly one of the best sections of the entire trip. You really feel you are heading ‘out there’ and whilst it is a climb, the last four days have had more elevation! The views are absolutely phenomenal. You will be stopping every minute to spam your social media with the views – just wow!

Where I stayed in Penacova

Top tip! Accommodation is sparse so book in as soon as you can.

Hospedaria Lampião

Really good value and excellent communications. No breakfast. Bikes stored inside.

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Food and drink

Bar Reconquinho, 7P8C+PC Penacova: On the banks of the river it is a popular place with excellent food and clientele – many cyclists, travellers and tourers come here and it’s great craic!

Notes

Morning ride

Take the N2 north following the Mondego, which rolls into a steep climb. After seven kilometres exit on the N2-3 / N17-2 signposted Lavradio. Follow this glass-smooth road that bobs and weaves adjacent to the IC6 for a couple of kilometres. The excellent Pinheiro Manso coffee shop is a great place for a morning beverage.

Continue east on the roller-coaster N2-3 for another five kilometres before crossing under the IC6 at Cruz do Soito. From now it’s a story of picturesque villages, pine trees and a real sense of serenity as the countryside opens up before you. After a climb you reach Covelo, and at the roundabout turn right signposted N17 for a 3.5 kilometre descent to Venda da Serra.

Head east on the N17 and after two kilometres, there is a petrol station and café/shop should you need to recharge.

Afternoon ride

Continue on the N17 east, traffic is light and it rolls very well despite the inescapable climb of 20 kilometres. There is a very well-regarded pub on the N17 called the George and Dragon (georgeanddragonpt.com) that was sadly closed when I passed, but looks great! Fear not, continue on for five kilometres and there is an Indian restaurant at Santa Ovaia!

Have a cold beer or drink on the terrace at Café Milénio in Santa Ovaia and then just after the café is an amazing hairpin descent to Pte. das Três Entradas at São Sebastião da Feir.

You roll to a halt on the N230 crossing over the Rio Alva. Just take a moment to look around the valley – it’s spectacular.

Points of interest

At Santa Ovaia the Serra da Estrela looms on the horizon and it’s a good place to rest and enjoy the vista and take some pictures of the amazing views.

Where I stayed in Oliveira do Hospital

Alva Valley Hotel

Superb hotel with an incredible breakfast buffet. Very attentive staff who advised I take as much as possible on my ride after breakfast!

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Food and drink

Restaurante A Ponte, R. Joaquim Martins da Fonseca 4, 3400-731 São Sebastião da Feira: excellent restaurant and bar with an outdoor seating area for daytime drinks. There is a bespoke menu, the chef asked what I liked and made it for me! Super friendly staff.

Notes

Morning ride

After a hearty breakfast head east on the N230; on my ride that day the valley was shrouded in morning fog which added to the jaw-dropping surroundings. The hills and mountains pop in and out of view as you roll 12 kilometres to your turn-off point at Vide. It’s a road you don’t want to end as you cycle past charming houses, farmsteads and silent villages.

There are cafes at Vide, assuming you arrive when they’re open(!), and a handy public toilet and ATM. Take the EM518 at vide heading northeast to Cabeca, one of the ‘aldeias de montanha’ or mountain villages.

The eight-kilometre climb on the EM518 is again, jaw-dropping; ease your way past stone buildings, historical water mills and tiny church at Muro as you begin to climb out of the valley.

Have a rest at the Tasca Sabores da Estrela (R. de São Romão 1, 6270-021 Cabeça) and just take in the stunning surroundings. If you ride 500 metres through the village you have the Mirador saldría de Montanha – an incredible viewpoint.

Weave your way on the EM518 and leave the valley behind, the views are amazing behind you. After four kilometres you reach a roundabout on the N338. This is a good time to rest. Remember those snacks you smuggled from the breakfast buffet…now’s the time to enjoy them before a big climb!

Afternoon ride

After this vital refuel, it’s straight ahead to the N338 and the 18-kilometre climb through the Serra da Estrela to Torre at 1,993 metres of elevation, the highest point in mainland Portugal.

You’ll notice the vegetation thins out about seven kilometres from the peak and you can make out the radar station on a welcome downhill section, before climbing again at the ski centre.

Finally, you will reach the summit! After a celebratory breather, it’s now time to cycle on to Seia.

Unsurprisingly, it’s a big descent. Initially, you retrace your steps for nine kilometres then split from the N338 and take the ER339, past the Lagoa Comprida and Albufeira da Barragem do Covão do Curral. Two kilometres past the lagoons take a left on the N513 and sail down enjoying the views to the Barragem Sra. do Desterro park and garden.

Stay on the N513 and at São Romão you will join the N231, It’s a three-kilometre ride north to Seia.

Points of interest

• Cabeca is a real-life Christmas village. It sits high on a hill, and the entire village begins planning for the festive season early. From late Autumn, you’ll find the entire village decked out in sustainable and hand-made decorations!
• The landscape changes as you climb, it has that alpine feel; the flora and fauna of junipers and chestnuts, huge granite outcrops, glacial deposits and landforms, and the Comprida Lagoon Lago do Viriato. Buzzards, falcons, boars, rabbits and the silence, the absolute silence of the area, the loudest sound being your derailleur. There are literally dozens of scenic points and opportunities to look over the landscape, it really takes your breath away.

Tips

• In 2022, the 518 had collapsed just outside of Cabeca and was closed. As I approached the fenced-off horseshoe section, the thought of heading back to Vide and taking an adjacent road was demoralising. I noticed a tiny worn ‘desire path’ hugging the valley wall and decided to give it a go. I stripped my bike down of luggage and made the 100-metre trip through the roadworks – first the bike then each pannier and front bag.  I put things back together and rode into Cabeca, drawing a lot of attention from locals!
• At times when cycling up through the Serra da Estrela to Torre, my pace was nothing more than a walking pace and it felt like an absolute grind. However, there are regular switchbacks for respite and to refuel on snacks – so take your time.
• This is a ski resort in the winter, so there is an impressive visitor centre and toilets at the summit.
• When I rode this, it was a Sunday, and there was a steady trickle of cars and campervans. However, I can imagine in August it’s a lot busier with traffic.

Where I stayed in Seia

Hotel Eurosol Seia Camelo

In the heart of the city, good bar and breakfast. Bikes are stored safely inside.

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Food and drink

• Borges, Tv. do Funchal 7, 6270-517 Seia: amazing local cuisine and wine menu. They served huge portions – just what you need after today’s ride.
• Taberna Da Fonte, Largo da Misericórdia 1, 6270-491 Seia: nice outdoor seating area for a well-earned drink!

Notes

Morning ride

Leave Seia on the N231 heading north. After the second roundabout, take a right on the R. de Santa Antoniha, which offers a quiet residential alternative to the busy N231. Rejoin the 231 at the roundabout and bear left at the second roundabout to Nelas.

Traffic is generally light on the N231 as you pass through granite villages with plenty of cafes and snack bars to choose from. After 18 kilometres, you cross the Mondego – it’s been a while – and move from the Guarda district to the Viseu district.

As you climb to Nelas, look over your shoulder at the Serra da Estrela in the distance – it’s quite a reminder! The N231 levels off at Nelas and there are numerous roadside cafes if you need a break.

Stay on the N231 through Santar to a hairpin bend that will now point you west; cross over the River Dai and after 650 metres take a left on the M596.

It’s a gorgeous meander past vineyards and timeless villages. At Pindelo, the M596 will meet the N233-1 and it’s a right, then a left towards Passos do Silgueiros. Here you get a good view of the Serra do Caramulo ahead.

Stay on the M596 and ride through the narrow streets of Passos do Silgueiros and the rolling vineyards to the N337 and take a right signposted Tondela. Cross the River Asnes on the narrow bridge for a tough climb into the beautiful village of Parada de Gonta and enjoy a coffee in the shade at a roadside café.

Afternoon ride

After the village stay on the N337 to the N2. Take a left and head south on the N2.

After one kilometre, take a right signposted São Miguel do Outeiro and back onto the N337. At the picturesque cobble-stoned village pick up the M628 south west. After five kilometres at the roundabout take the first exit and head north for six kilometres, until another roundabout. Here you will be taking the second exit south on the N228 and skirt the foothills of the Serra do Caramulo to Santiago de Besteiros.

At the church in Santiago de Besteiros you take an immediate right for a cobbled climb signposted Carramulo and to a sapping 16% gradient section to the ER230.

Stay on the ER230 and climb the remaining five kilometres enjoying the jaw-dropping views back over to the Serra da Estrela should the weather allow. I remember the drop in temperature – it was much colder than the Estrela.

Points of interest

Caramulo has one of the most important and famous car museums in Portugal, full of vintage and classic sports cars and the town has a motor festival in September. It’s a must-see for petrolheads and right opposite the hotel. Find out more here.

Tips

My GPS pinged seven registered climbs on this journey west, so pace yourself and prepare for another day of challenging climbing.

Where I stayed in Caramulo

Golden Tulip Caramulo Hotel & SPA

A huge hotel and really good value, with excellent attentive staff. The restaurant was closed but they still managed to rustle me something up after a tough day!

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Food and drink

Restaurante Marte, R. Pinheiros, 3475-031, Carramulo: the food looked fantastic, but I was too busy having a few beers to realise that the restaurant closed early. The staff were pleasant and apologetic.

Notes

Morning ride

Head north out of Carramulo on the N230. There is a small climb of 1.5 kilometres up and over to head west to the coast.

It’s a rapid stretch of road with signposts highlighting the dangers of fire and ice. It’s roughly 35 kilometres downhill and a never-ending meander through the valley and quiet charming villages, including Arca, São João do Monte and Paul. There are gorgeous views all around.

The 230 levels out at Bolfiar when you cross over the Rio Alfusqueiro. At the Restaurante Almeida, you can sit outside with a very friendly canary and enjoy the views of the parks, gardens and river.

Back on the 230, it’s a few kilometres to Agueda. Traffic notably picks up here and for the next 15 kilometres or so it can be very busy unsurprisingly, as you head west and traverse three major motorways.

Afternoon ride

Take the N333 west from Agueda and under the IC2. Keep on the N333, past the industrial zones and straight ahead at the roundabouts towards Aveiro – never Lisbon or Porto! Cross over the train lines and then over the A1.

After the A1 you do catch a break and it’s more rural Portugal than industrial. At Palhaça you are welcomed with a nice town square and bandstand, should you need a break at the ardim da Praça de S. Pedro.

At the roundabout, take the 3rd exit west and onto the R. do Robolo towards Ouca on the CM1547. Cross over the last major motorway, the IC1. After 2 kilometres you will come to some traffic lights, turn left and head south on the N109 signposted Aveiro.

The N109 is a fast rolling 12 kilometres to Mira slowing as you enter the town centre. Take a right at the Jardim do Visconde da Corujeira and onto the N334 heading northeast to Praia de Mira which on wide roads and intermittent cycle paths.

Welcome back to the Atlantic and the shores of the Mira Lagoon!

Points of interest

Agueda is a vibrant and colourful city. If you’ve got time, dismount and walk through the streets and check out the umbrella art installations on the Av. 25 de Abril!

Tips

The N333 is a ‘skinny’ road and depending on the time of day you can be sharing the road with a lot of cars picking up the motorways. Every now and then a hard shoulder gives you some respite.

Where I stayed in Mira

Maçarico Beach Hotel
Lovely beachside boutique hotel with an adjoining Irish bar. Fantastic breakfasts. Bikes are stored safely inside.

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Food and drink

• Sixties Irish Pub, Tv. Arrais Manuel M. Patrão, 3070-818 Praia de Mira: a real hidden gem! Fantastic home-cooked food, lovely Guinness and great music.
• There are numerous Atlantic side and lagoon side bars and restaurants along with lovely landscaped parks and gardens to enjoy.

Notes

Head east from the coast on the ER334 and after 1.5 kilometres take a left signposted Aveiro and join the cycle path on the CM591. After four kilometres you reach Barra de Mira.

After another 3 kilometres, take a left signposted Vagueira and follow the canal gravel path for another kilometre then left again to hop over the Aveiro Lagoon for a 13 kilometre ride north on a popular cycle path alongside the lagoon.

Eventually, the route you are cycling on splits in two. Stay straight ahead to the Praia da Barra and the highest lighthouse in Portugal.

Points of interest

• Barra de Mira is home to the Praia do Poço da Cruz beach, a beautiful beach boasting golden sands
• On the way you can visit the small town of Praia da Vagueira and beachfront cafes, but it’s Costa Nova that is really worth exploring.
• Whilst the Praia Nova beach is itself an attraction it’s the candy rock striped houses that pull in the visitors. The striped houses are called palheiros and chances are you’ve probably seen them on postcards, or Instagram, by now!

Where I stayed in Aveiro

Hotel Farol

Probably the best hotel on the trip. Location, staff, rooms and breakfast. Well worth the upgrade for a beachside balcony and view. Your bike is stored safely in a locked courtyard archway.

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Food and drink

• Café Farol, Av. João Corte Real, 3830-753 Gafanha da Nazaré: Adjacent to the hotel and your first port of calls! Art deco café/bar lovely outside terrace for a beer and snacks.
• Bar Aquarius, Av. Fernão de Magalhães 172, 3830-751 Gafanha da Nazaré: Chilled popular bar for tourists and locals
• Brasão, Av. Fernão de Magalhães 127, 3830-751 Gafanha da Nazaré: Tasty, cheap and cheerful pizza, friendly staff

Notes

Morning ride

Head south from the lighthouse, back to where the road split yesterday and head east over the steep bridge that crosses the lagoon. Keep on the cycle path that circles the lagoon to a big roundabout. You will be taking the third exit signposted ferryboat.

You arrive at the ferry terminal and can buy a ticket on board or at the kiosk. I always aim for the 10:15am ferry which gives you lots of time for breakfast and the six-kilometre ride to the crossing.

It’s a 15-minute crossing to Jacinto and we’re up and running on the N327 north, on a fast and flat lagoon flanking road. The views over the lagoon take in the Serra do Caramulo silhouetted on the horizon.

It’s a gorgeous 16-kilometre ride on the peninsula. The lagoon is on one side and the Atlantic is just out of view on the other. After this section, take the second exit on the roundabout heading north to Ovar and Porto for the second leg north on the 327.

At Carregal, you reach a roundabout and a cycle lane. Take a left to Furadouro with it’s now typical promenade and beachfront cafes. However, it’s a 10-kilometre cycle path through a forest that we will be taking just before Furadouro, on the R. Manue Pereira Dias. It’s a lovely shaded section and very popular, ending at the Av. Da Praia, where you take the second exit left and back towards the coast.

Head north on the R. Frederico Ulrich to Praia de Esmoriz and after two kilometres you will be heading east on the Av. Dr. Fernando Raimundo Rodrigues and past the football stadium.

After the football stadium just before you head over the railway tracks bear right and go under the bridge which is now on your left. Follow the road then at the crossroads head left and back to the coastline past the military base. There are fantastic views at the chapel at the end of the road.

Afternoon ride

Head north next to the golf course on the R. do Quartel Ribeirinhos (note – there could be diversions with a big railway project underway) crossing the railway lines to Bairro Piscatório (fishing district) at the south of Espinho city.

On the Praia do Areal da Marinha there are elevated duckboards and you cycle on these north, under the railway lines and out onto the Av Liberdade. Head north for two kilometres and cross over the railway lines at Granja Station – again there could be engineering works – and head east to Praia da Granja and back on the Atlantic.

All roads lead north now and you’re on the final straight to Porto. You will rarely leave sight of the ocean as you head north through bustling beachside communities to the Dog Stone and the mouth of the Douro River.

There’s a mix of cycle lanes and tree-lined streets on a gentle climb north and you will be following other cyclists and walkers heading your way and enjoying the vast ocean views, especially at Praia de Valadares with the dual cycle lanes.

Keep following the cycle path along the Douro for seven kilometres and into the charming city of Porto. Adeus por enquanto!

Points of interest

• There are cut-throughs on the lagoon road, after the ferry crossing, to the Atlantic at Torreira and Torrão do Lameiro should you wish to explore the huge quiet beaches on the coast, but the lagoon side views are just as invigorating. You can expect small sandy inlets with fishermen, art-deco villas and roadside cafes.
• It’s worth visiting the Rïa Lounge Bar with its stunning views at the head of the lagoon. There’s a small beach and outside decking area (R. Família Colares Pinto, 3880-218 Ovar). It’s a great place to look back over the mountains and lake before moving on.
• Espinho is a very busy city but has a dedicated cycle lane on the beachfront and it’s a charming go-slow past working fishing vessels and fishermen working. Eventually packed local restaurants fill the promenade and there’s a lovely charm and pace to the busy area.
• The promenade eventually widens in Espinho with more modern-edge developments at the end, where there is a great place for a coffee at the relaxed beachfront Marbelo Praia-Bar – it’s also easier to leave your bike here! (Av. 8 174, 4500-356 Espinho) It’s right next to the towering ‘Espinho’ sign – ideal for a photo stop!
• The Dog Stone – Pedra do Cão – marks the endpoint of this bike tour. Spend some time here looking over at the Atlantic and looking north before your final push into Porto

Tips

• The ferry port to cross the lagoon is a working port and there’s lots of freight on the road that leads to it. But the roads are very wide and it’s popular with cyclists. Full timetables for the ferry are available here.
• At Praia de Cortegaça you have wonderful panoramic views, but it’s the least developed of the numerous beach stops and the wide boulevard to the beachfront is often deserted with a scattering of empty commercial and residential properties.
• Despite the cycle paths being busy heading into Porto, there’s a relaxed vibe. You will probably find yourself talking to walkers doing the Caminoo de Santiago and heading north to Santiago de Compostela, and other touring cyclists, especially around Lavadores at the Douro estuary.
• One thing is guaranteed – Porto will be busy. But what’s the hurry? Enjoy the views of the city and the iconic Luís I Bridge.
• FC Porto, Al. das Antas 24, 4350-414 Porto: If you are a football fan you can enjoy a tour of the famous Dragon Stadium. It’s four kilometres northeast from the city centre so you can have a stroll along. The tour was in Portuguese because I didn’t speak up, but when I muttered something in English they took me round again for an English language tour.

Where I stayed in Porto

Hotel Carrís Porto Ribeira-Porto

Boutique river-side hotel on the Cais da Ribeira. Definitely dismount from your bike – it’s very busy! I stayed once and stored my bicycle inside. However, the next time I enquired they said bicycles were not allowed inside, so check ahead of booking.

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Miragaia House

Brilliant place. Great communication and bikes stored safely inside. Huge breakfasts and rooms. There are some really cool traditional bars and cafes around you and it’s a one-kilometre walk to the Cais da Ribeira.

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Food and drink

• Café Santiago, R. de Passos Manuel 226, 4000-382 Porto: This is the place to have Porto’s famous Francesinha sandwich. Find out more below.
• Brasão Aliados, R. de Ramalho Ortigão 28, 4000-407 Porto: A slightly more swanky place for your Francesinha, but it can be a bit rushed and feel a little ‘touristy’
• The Royal Cocktail Club, Rua da Fábrica 105, 4050-247 Porto: A friendly cool cocktail bar with a fantastic interior – there are numerous bars on this street and in this area.
• Cris Bar, R. de São João 111, 4050-553 Porto: Snack bar where you can just rock up with your carrier bags after shopping for soap and fridge magnets. Such a relaxed vibe and you always get talking to others.