Want to experience cycling in rural Uruguay? The beautiful region of Rocha is a great option for relaxing cycling in South America.
Stretching north from the department of Maldonado, Rocha reaches all the way to the Brazilian border. This lesser-visited region of Uruguay is a real hidden gem for cyclists!
Here, Epic Road Rides reader Louisa Woolf shares her experiences of cycling in Rocha. Having cycled in Uruguay for a month in 2023 and another month in 2024, Louisa experienced several departments in the country. On both occasions, she particularly loved Rocha’s wilder, more rural feel and its many vast, deserted beaches.
Read on to discover what Louisa believes makes Rocha so special…
I recently left my cargo bike delivery job in London to go on the trip of a lifetime cycling around South America.
I spent nine months riding across five countries exploring some of the best touring routes in the world. Having toured from the top of Colombia down to the Ecuador-Peru border, the plan was to continue south.
But during some political tension in Peru, which caused roadblocks and closed borders, I made a last-minute decision to box up my bike and fly over to the Atlantic coast. This brought me to the Republic of Uruguay! I didn’t know anything about this country before I arrived.
After crossing over from Buenos Aires in Argentina, I cycled up to the Brazilian border and back. In between I enjoyed some wonderful inland detours and have since been back to Uruguay to explore more of this beautiful country on my bike.
Why should cyclists visit Rocha?
Rocha is a beautiful, wild and often overlooked part of Uruguay.
As part of my cycling trip in Uruguay in 2023, I first travelled northwards from Uruguay’s capital, Montevideo. Then I headed up through the vibrant tourist towns in Maldonado. Reaching the department of Rocha was a welcomed relief from the crowds; it was the chance to explore a more rural side of Uruguay.
The beaches are breathtaking, the roads are empty, and the camp spots are abundant; Rocha is the perfect place for a relaxed bike tour that’s surrounded by nature.
Unspoilt beaches
This region boasts many beautiful, secluded, beaches. Some sandy stretches were so quiet that I was completely alone.
For me, nothing beats emerging from your tent on an empty beach with the sun rising over the ocean. Rocha’s extensive coastline means there are plenty of places to pitch your tent on a beautiful beach.
However, wild camping isn’t for everyone! If you would prefer a roof over your head, there are also lots of lovely accommodation options to choose from in this region.
Impressive wildlife
Rocha is a fantastic destination for nature lovers hoping to spot wildlife.
Birdwatchers will love the coastal lagoon of Laguna de Rocha. It’s home to a wide variety of bird species, including flamingos.
Further north, the Santa Teresa National Park has more birds to admire. If you are lucky, you can see capybaras here; this native animal of South America is the world’s largest rodent.
Looking for bigger wildlife sightings? The coastal hamlet of Cabo Polonio has a sea lion colony which you can watch from the rocks.
Overview from a cyclist’s perspective
Location
Rocha is one of Uruguay’s nineteen departments. It is located on the Atlantic Coast and reaches all the way up to Chuy, the town on the Brazilian border which is shared by both countries.
The Rocha department lies just to the north of the Maldonado department. It offers a slightly wilder riding experience, away from the busy towns found further south.
Map of Uruguay
Terrain
Rocha covers 10,000 square kilometres and has a low population density of just under 70,000 people. This means you get to experience some very beautiful riding through lots of vast open spaces and unspoilt countryside.
The Rocha department has 215 kilometres of Atlantic coastline, with some of the most secluded and empty beaches I’ve had the joy of visiting.
Inland, Rocha is characterised by agricultural land, known locally as ‘the campo’.
Roads and cycling culture
In general, the roads in Rocha are very well maintained.
Larger roads are well paved, and traffic is minimal and respectful. I found cars to be very considerate of cyclists and the Uruguayan warmth and hospitality was extended towards those on two wheels.
Beware! You are likely to encounter some gravel tracks on some of the smaller routes leading off the main road to various beaches. These are generally short distances and are typically well-kept and rideable.
Rocha cycling logistics
Trip duration
The distances here are relatively short; the length of the Rocha department up the coastline is just less than 200 kilometres. So it would be possible to ride this route in just a couple of days.
However, I would recommend at least a week in order to relax, take the journey slowly and discover some of the lesser-ridden routes and hidden gems that Rocha boasts.
Top tip! If you plan to visit Cabo Polonio you’ll definitely want to factor in an extra couple of days. This quirky little hamlet has no running water, roads or electricity. It is only accessed by crossing the dunes by buggy.
See my suggested Cabo Polonio route below to factor this into your planning.
Organised tour vs self-guided
There are a few companies offering organised bike tours of Uruguay. However, these often focus on the more popular tourist spots further south.
In Rocha, given the flat terrain and short distances, it is certainly not necessary to travel on an organised tour. Following the coastal route, navigation is extremely easy and with so many places to stop at, it can be nice to travel at your own pace.
Empty roads from La Pedrera (photo credit: Louisa Woolf)
Rocha cycling itinerary
All metrics in this article are approximate.
Overview
This cycling route in Uruguay is a continuation of my coastal tour through the Maldonado department.
This route through Rocha heads northwards towards the Brazilian border. On this leg of the trip, I hugged the coastal roads.
Inland riding offers even more seclusion if that’s what you’re seeking, and a lot of farmland. I decided to maximise my time on the coast, to enjoy the immense beaches, more ample tourist infrastructure, and better quality roads.
Once I reached the town of Chuy on the Brazilian border, unfortunately, it was time to turn around and cycle back to Buenos Aires.
Take note! This cycling route does not include Rocha, the capital city of the Rocha department. It’s about 30 kilometres from the coast. Whilst the city is good for transport links, it’s not that noteworthy, or particularly beautiful, so I didn’t want to include it in my itinerary.
1. El Caracol to La Paloma
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Statistics
78 kilometres
556 metres of elevation gain
Approaching the lighthouse at La Paloma (photo credit: Louisa Woolf)
Notes
Having ridden up the coast of Maldonado, you will reach the impressive circular bridge at El Caracol, which marks the beginning of the Rocha department. From here, you will follow the Ruta 10 past Laguna Garzon and up to Laguna de Rocha.
If you’re up for a challenge, you can continue along Ruta 10 as it progressively becomes less defined. It will bring you to the sandy shores of the lake, Laguna de Rocha. You can enjoy a beautiful view of the flamingos feeding in the lake.
But beware! It does involve an arduous two kilometres along the soft sand.
Alternatively, you can veer inland momentarily to join the perfectly paved main road, the Ruta 9. This road passes the lake on the other side. It also brings you into the lovely seaside town of La Paloma via Ruta 15.
The above GPS route takes you on this paved route and avoids the off-road section at Laguna de Rocha.
Points of interest
The main charm of La Paloma lies in its beaches. Thanks to its position on the coast, it has three beautiful beaches within walking distance of the town, each with its own character.
Don’t miss the sunset from La Balconada, the beach right next to the lighthouse. Locals gather for their lovely tradition of drinking maté (a South American caffeine-rich infused herbal drink) and applauding the sun as it sets over the sea.
La Paloma is a vibrant town with a very laid-back feel. The town has tree-lined streets and plenty of cafes and surf shops. It’s a great place to spend a few relaxing days and stock up for the road ahead. This is a good time to stock up on cash ATMs are few and far between from here.
Where to stay
This is a lovely option in La Paloma, located a short ride from the main road and two blocks from Playa de Anaconda, a great surf beach. They have private rooms and shared dormitories, and the best part is the lovely common space and enormous firepit they light every night.
Food and drink
There is no shortage of places to eat on the main road in La Paloma. Try Oliva Restó for a well-priced, delicious dinner on their terrace.
2. La Paloma to La Pedrera
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Statistics
12 kilometres
84 metres of elevation gain
A disused train at Costa Azul, between La Paloma and La Pedrera (photo credit: Louisa Woolf)
Notes
This part of the route is particularly short; in fact, there are only 10 kilometres between these two beach towns. It is worth taking your time as the beaches on the way are spectacular.
Continuing along the shoreline on the Costanera Tabaré Avenue, you pass the beaches of Antoniópolis, Costa Azul and La Aguada.
Just behind La Aguada beach, you find a dune known as Cerro de La Virgen, which is a great lookout spot, especially from July to October when the whales are migrating past.
All of these beaches are particularly good for sunrises and surfing.
Points of interest
La Pedrera is a friendly, picturesque, Uruguayan beach town. It is set on a rocky cliff and has great views over the two long beaches on either side. El Desplayado is calm and protected, and El Barco is a popular surf spot with its large Atlantic waves.
The main road is peppered with cafés, workshops and small galleries which are open and feel full of life in the summer months. It is a beautiful place to mooch about and explore for a relaxing couple of days.
You will notice a marked difference to La Pedrera’s usual sleepy vibe during carnival week in February. The small town comes alive with people partying on the beach until sunrise.
Arriving in to la Pedrera, you will leave the paved, main road (the Ruta 10) and join compact, gravel roads to navigate the town.
Where to stay
This is a great option set just off the beach, with glamping tents and luxury natural cabanas. You will feel close to nature here and can hear the waves from the bed.
For cheaper options, there is an abundance of bohemian hostels scattered around the small town of La Pedrera. These are all a short walk from the beaches. Don’t miss:
This hostel has mixed and private rooms. It also has great dinner options, breakfast included and an enormous grill in the garden
Food and drink
La Pedrera is a hidden gem with a lively restaurant scene and a good mix of dining options.
Don’t miss Mar La Pedrera for fresh, delicious ingredients served right on the beachfront. The food is consistently outstanding, and the setting is beautiful. It’s only open during the summer months, from January to March.
3. La Pedrera to Cabo Polonio
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Statistics
38 kilometres
206 metres of elevation gain
Riding through the dunes on a dune buggy to Cabo Polonio (photo credit: Louisa Woolf)
Notes
This route will take you to the entrance of the Cabo Polonio National Park.
Between La Pedrera and Cabo Polonio National Park, the road is gently undulating and completely paved.
It’s technically a main road but extremely quiet and tree-lined. You will enjoy views of the countryside to one side and have views of the coast in the distance on the other.
It’s not permitted to enter the park by any means except walking. The only other alternative is to take an all-terrain buggy across the seven kilometres of sand dunes. This helps to preserve the delicate dune ecosystem.
You can store your bike securely in the office of the National Park for 100 pesos per day (less than £2).
Be aware! Cabo Polonio is often cash only (depending on the intermittent signal in town) so come prepared. La Paloma is the best place to use an ATM on the way up.
Points of interest
Cabo Polonio is a fascinating hamlet; it has no running water, no electricity and no vehicles. There are also no roads, just wooden boardwalks which weave through the small, colourful fishermen’s huts and tiny houses.
It’s completely unique and has a feeling of being stuck in time.
You can climb the lighthouse for a wonderful view of it in its entirety. It’s lovely to explore the vast, wild and unspoilt Atlantic beaches.
There is also a resident sea lion colony, which you will hear from the hamlet. You can spend hours watching them from the rocks.
Top tip! Despite the significant detour, and the necessity to leave the bike behind, it would be a huge shame to miss Cabo Polonio.
Where to stay
This is a fantastic option, and certainly the most luxurious. This boutique hotel has gorgeous wooden rooms right on the beachfront. It also has a restaurant with incredible seafood and ceviche. Even if you don’t stay here, you should try and eat here.
Looking for a cheaper option? There are various hostels available and a good range on Airbnb to suit any budget.
Food and drink
Don’t miss the restaurant at Perla del Cabo, which is by far the best spot in the hamlet.
You can find a few other more informal restaurants as you wander around. These serve more simple food.
Top tip! There is also a supermarket inside the national park, but prices are inflated and fresh food is limited. If you want to cook, it would be best to come prepared with your own food.
4. Cabo Polonio to Punta del Diablo
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Statistics
71 kilometres
455 metres of elevation gain
Empty roads cycling towards Punta del Diablo (Photo credit: Louisa Woolf)
Notes
After navigating yourself back to the entrance of the Cabo Polonio National Park, you have around 60 kilometres to the next town, Punta del Diablo.
Today’s route sticks to the main road, the Ruta 10. This continues to be very quiet and generally well-paved.
You will pass Laguna Negra on your left towards the end of this leg. This is a beautiful place to pause for a food break and a spot of bird-watching.
Points of interest
- Depending on how much time you wish to spend in this part of Rocha, there are a few spectacular stops on this relatively short leg.
- Only 15 kilometres from the entrance to Cabo Polonio, you will reach the tiny town of Aguas Dulces which boasts a tremendous, long, interrupted beach. I had it all to myself! Aguas Dulces beach is particularly charming with its ramshackle collection of wooden houses built on stilts in the sand.
- Around 30 kilometres on, you will hit La Esmerelda. This is a small hamlet with an even more impressive beach. The coastline here is framed by dunes and eucalyptus, pine and acacia forest, and feels particularly wild and unspoilt.
- After another 20 kilometres more, you will reach the pretty village of Punta del Diablo. It has around 800 permanent residents, mainly artisans and fishermen. But in the summer months, it feels lively with tourists.
- There are strict building regulations in Punta del Diablo, so you won’t find any high rises or sprawling resorts. It is made up of dirt roads, colourful fishermen’s huts, quaint cabanas and boutique accommodations. Don’t miss the artisan market in the middle of town. Watching local artists playing live music on the beach at sunset is also really special.
- From Punta del Diablo, you can rent surfboards, and take a guided horse ride along the beach or in the forests. You can also try sandboarding on the dunes.
Where to stay
This section of the trip is amazing for wild camping.
Top tip! Use the app iOverlander to explore the options along this part of the route. There are numerous sheltered, secluded spots to pitch up and enjoy the sunsets over the sea from your tent.
Punta del Diablo also has fantastic accommodation options.
These are lovely contemporary wooden cabanas set in the forest, right by the beach with lovely hosts and homemade cookies on arrival.
Other options include:
- Sangha Yoga is another beautiful option in the forest. It’s a bed and breakfast offering yoga classes in the mornings.
- Hostel Mar del Fondo is great for a cheaper option, a simple hostel on the beach with a nice vibe.
Food and drink
Be aware! Lots of places in Punta del Diablo are cash only, so come prepared. Try restaurant Euphoria for fresh fish served on the balcony of a simple wooden building overlooking the ocean.
Panes y Peces is one of the oldest restaurants in town. They also do very good fish and seafood in a laid-back atmosphere.
5. Punta del Diablo to Chuy
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52 kilometres
345 metres of elevation gain
Fishing boats at Punta del Diablo (photo credit: Louisa Woolf)
Notes
Just north of Punta del Diablo lies Santa Teresa National Park. This is a large nature reserve full of wildlife and truly beautiful camp spots overlooking the ocean.
Between Punta del Diablo and Chuy, you can choose to do a small detour to ride through the Santa Teresa National Park. This is more interesting of the routes.
Alternatively, you could stick to Ruta 9 for a more direct route. The Ruta 9 is similar here as it is earlier in the route, very quiet and flat, with eucalyptus lining the road and through the countryside. It is only as you approach the city of Chuy that the traffic picks up a little; it becomes notably more built up compared with the rest of the route. But nothing too drastic!
Continuing northwards along the Ruta 9, you reach the end of the road in Uruguay when you reach Chuy. This city sits on the border of Brazil and is shared by both countries.
Chuy is most popular for its cheap shopping. It is not particularly beautiful but is a good pitstop on the way up to Brazil.
Points of interest
- Entry into Santa Teresa is free. Inside the park, you will find walking trails through the various forests, over 12 kilometres of coastline, an aviary and a tropical greenhouse.
- You will also find Laguna de Peña and may be lucky to see the reserve of capybara who live on the banks of the lake.
- Other wildlife living in Santa Teresa include otters, yacarés, wild boar, deer, turtles, herons, peacocks, lizards, skunks, rheas and many other bird species.
- Don’t miss the impressive hilltop fortress, Fortaleza de Santa Teresa. It’s just four kilometres north of the park entrance on Ruta 9. The fortress’ construction began in 1762 by the Portuguese and was finished by the Spanish after they secured it in 1793. It is open from 10 am to 6 pm every day. You must pay 50 Uruguayan pesos in cash.
Where to stay
Inside the national park is a campsite with water access and toilets. The camp spots here overlooking the vast unspoilt beaches are magical, particularly at sunrise.
There are also simple cabins to rent with gas stoves and outdoor barbecues, some also overlooking the sea. You can book both via WhatsApp in advance.
In Chuy, Etnico Hostel is a good option with comfortable rooms and a homely feel.
Food and drink
There is a small supermarket located inside the national park for basic supplies.
There is also a restaurant in the national park called El Encuentro, near Playa de la Moza. It serves simple, well-priced food on the beach.
Tips for planning a bike tour in Rocha, Uruguay
Best time of year to cycle in Rocha
Uruguayan summer and its peak tourism is from December to February.
Most tourists head to popular spots in Maldonado, so you will experience less overcrowding in Rocha, even if you arrive in the peak months.
At the start of March, some of the cafes, galleries and restaurants will start to close for the end of the season.
During the summer months, you can expect a warm and humid climate in Rocha. Temperatures are between 17 and 30 degrees. If you stay on Rocha’s coastal routes, you may benefit from the cool Atlantic breeze, which is consistent year-round.
Semana de Turismo
You might notice an increase in tourism during the Easter holidays, known in Uruguay as ‘Semana de Turismo’.
They are celebrated widely, with lots of people heading to beach towns. It’s worth booking in advance during this time and be aware of a possible slight increase in prices if you plan to visit at this time.
Cabo Polonio cabins (photo credit: Louisa Woolf)
Key cycling events
The larger cycling events tend to take place further south, in more populated parts of the country.
If you are keen to participate in or watch a major race, you could combine your trip to Rocha with the GFNY in Punta del Este, which is only 40km from El Caracol (the Maldonado-Rocha border).
GFNY Punta is a road ride at the end of March after the peak of the tourist season has passed. There are two routes to choose from.
Find out more about this event in our guide to Uruguay.
Bike shops
The options for bike shops are more limited in this part of Uruguay.
If you are looking to hire a bike, I would recommend picking one up in Montevideo or Punta del Este where there are more options and the quality will be better.
Roosevelt y Londres, 20000, Punta del Este
This is a good option because they have a great range and they organise rental drop-offs and pickups across Uruguay. This saves you from having to travel with the bike.
For repairs and adjustments out on the road, there are good mechanics in two of the larger towns you will pass through:
La Paloma
Bicicleteria Melany, Delfin, 27001
Punta del del Diablo
Recicleta, Av. Central, 27200
There are also various bike shops in the city of Rocha, which is 30 kilometres inland from La Paloma.
Top tip! If there is no bike shop, it’s worth trying a ferreteria. These are small hardware stores that crop up frequently and usually sell inner tubes.
Accommodation
Travelling in Uruguay can get expensive.
Unlike in other parts of South America, prices are more comparable to European cities. One way I managed to save money on accommodation was by taking my tent and wild camping on beaches.
I always like to find hostels on my cycling trips and have highlighted several above within the specific cycling routes I’ve provided.
Here are some useful apps that I also used whilst in Uruguay, to help me find places to stay:
Warm showers
This app connects cyclists around the world.
It works much like couch surfing. Locals advertise their spare rooms and extend a (free) invitation to travellers passing through their town.
I used Warm showers whenever I could in Uruguay, there is a lovely community on it and it is a fantastic opportunity to get to know some Uruguayans, who also share an interest in cycling. They will undoubtedly give you some insightful local knowledge. It’s a great way to both save money and enrich your experience.
Read this article for tips for using Warmshowers.
iOverlander
Another useful app to download before your trip is iOverlander. It allows travellers who have come before you to pin useful local knowledge on the map, and it is full of information about Rocha.
Whether it’s a good place to camp, a spot to refill water, a public loo or a good photo opportunity… it’s likely to be pinned on the app.
This is particularly useful when bike touring with a camping set-up. You can check in advance where suitable camping spots are and plan accordingly.
Wild camping on Santa Teresa beach (photo credit: Louisa Woolf)
Getting to Uruguay
Unfortunately, there are no direct flights from the UK to Uruguay. The quickest journeys are usually around 16 hours and involve a layover either in Sao Paulo or Madrid.
There are, however, direct flights to Ezeiza in Buenos Aires. From here you can take a very enjoyable ferry ride over to Uruguay, either to Colonia del Sacramento (roughly one-hour crossing), or Montevideo directly (roughly a two-hour crossing).
Getting to Rocha
Bus
From Montevideo, there are regular buses to La Paloma which are affordable and comfortable. They allow bikes on when you board at Tres Cruces, Montevideo’s main terminal.
From La Paloma, you can find buses stopping at various other towns along Rocha’s coast, depending on where you want to begin riding from.
Top tip! During the summer months, especially in January, seats on buses can fill up several days in advance. So make sure to book early. You can browse bus schedules and buy tickets here.
Plane
There is an international airport in Punta del Este, with direct flights to Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay.
Highway code and travel information
Before you travel to Uruguay, it is worth reading the UK government travel information pages for Uruguay here.
You should also read and follow Uruguay’s highway code.
La Pedrera beach (photo credit: Louisa Woolf)
Final thoughts on cycling Uruguay’s Rocha region
A big thank you to Louisa for sharing this useful guide on cycling the region of Rocha.
For more useful information and Uruguay routes, don’t miss this general guide to cycling in Uruguay here. For an alternate Uruguay bike tour, take a look at the Maldonado region here.
Looking for more inspiration for cycling around South America? Check out this guide to cycling Chile.
Or for more off-the-beaten-track adventures, don’t miss these articles:
- Cycling Vancouver to Prince Rupert (via Vancouver Island)
- Cycling the Hebridean Way
- Cycling Poland’s Masurian Lake District
- Best bikepacking routes in the UK
- Best gravel bike adventures in Europe
- Cycling holidays in Romania
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If you want someone to help you plan and book your cycling holiday, fill out this form. We aren’t a tour operator/agent but we work with lots of people who are and will do our best to put you in touch with someone that can help (within 24 hours where possible)!I recently left my cargo bike delivery job in London to go on the trip of a lifetime cycling around South America.
I spent nine months riding across five countries exploring some of the best touring routes in the world. Having toured from the top of Colombia down to the Ecuador-Peru border, the plan was to continue south.
But during some political tension in Peru, which caused roadblocks and closed borders, I made a last-minute decision to box up my bike and fly over to the Atlantic coast. This brought me to the Republic of Uruguay! I didn’t know anything about this country before I arrived.
After crossing over from Buenos Aires in Argentina, I cycled up to the Brazilian border and back. In between I enjoyed some wonderful inland detours and have since been back to Uruguay to explore more of this beautiful country on my bike.
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