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For cyclists, Viana do Castelo in Northern Portugal, is not well-known. It’s surprising that it’s not better known really, given the town and its district are gorgeous and home to historic villages, wild coastline and a great range of road and gravel riding.

But could its “under the radar” status be about to change? A few weeks before we visited, four World Tour pro teams had been training and stayed at FeelViana Sport Hotel (where we also stayed – details below).

I can see why the pros chose this area. There are abundant high quality road cycling routes, while the Ecovia do Litoral Norte (which is effectively EuroVelo 1 Atlantic Coast Route in this region) and Camino Portuguese are popular long-distance cycling routes that offer challenges for tourers and gravel/MTB riders. Plus Viana is easily accessible from Porto, so it’s perfect for those on a mixed cycling and sightseeing trip.

Below, I share our routes and experience of cycling this area of Northern Portugal from our base at the lovely FeelViana Sport Hotel.

Enjoy!

Clare Dewey

Article by Clare Dewey

Clare Dewey is a cyclist with a passion for travel. She set up epicroadrides.com in 2018 to help make it easy for cyclists to explore the world by bike. Today her mission is still inspiring cyclists to discover new places on two wheels - and doing what she can to make sure they have the best possible time while they're there. Clare has visited 50+ destinations around the world, many of them by bike.

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Want to connect with Clare? Find her over on LinkedIn.

Overview of Viana from a cyclist’s perspective

Location

Viana do Castelo is located in Northern Portugal, right on the Atlantic coast, about:

  • 75 kilometres north of Porto (about an hour by car or train)
  • 35 kilometres south of the Spanish border
  • At the mouth of the Lima River, where it flows into the ocean

It’s part of the Minho region, known for its lush green hills, river valleys, and Atlantic beaches. The area is famous for its historic old town with tiled buildings and a fishing heritage, beautiful coastline with surfing beaches like Praia do Cabedelo (which is about 200 metres from FeelViana Sport Hotel) and mountain landscapes like Serra d’Arga, perfect for cyclists.

See the map below for the location of some of the key places mentioned in this guide. Hover over the map pins to see the place names.

Terrain

The terrain around Viana do Castelo is remarkably varied.

Coast

The coastal area is predominantly flat and features (generally) well-maintained cycle paths and wooden boardwalks along the Atlantic Coast. The region has clearly spent some money on the coastal promenade around the town and the bike/pedestrian paths heading north.

The promenade runs along the north bank of the Lima River, starting near the marina and continuing past the old shipyards and Porto de Viana. As you continue north, the promenade connects to a dedicated bike and pedestrian path that hugs the coastline for kilometres. This is part of the Ecovia do Litoral Norte, that links Viana do Castelo with villages further north, like Carreço, Afife, Vila Praia de Âncora, and eventually Caminha near the Spanish border. The path takes you through sand dunes, pine forests, and small fishing communities. Much of it is on wooden boardwalks or smooth asphalt.

Inland

Moving inland, the Lima River valley offers gently undulating terrain that is both lush and culturally rich. Cycling here, you can enjoy the beauty of rural landscapes, including vineyards and traditional villages. The rolling hills and moderate gradients make this area perfect for a leisurely ride, assuming you’re happy to ride a few hills.

The terrain shifts dramatically as you approach the Serra de Arga mountains. These areas are characterized by steep climbs. The roads here are often quiet and secluded, passing through dense pine forests and rustic stone villages, which provide a dramatic backdrop and a great sense of isolation and accomplishment when the summit is reached. For those riding off-road, it’s possible to tackle parts of the Camino Portuguese; albeit this is primarily designed for walkers, so you’ll need to be ready for some steps and technical sections.

What are the roads like?

We found the roads to be relatively quiet, especially away from the coast. The region has an intricate network of paths and roads, from the ancient footpaths of the Camino de Santiago to brand new super highways. This means there is no shortage of route options and a lot of the traffic opts for the faster roads away from where cyclists want to ride.

We found drivers pretty patient, but not adverse to the odd close pass.

Camino signs

Camino de Santiago just south of Viana do Castelo

What kind of cyclist is Viana for?

Viana offers a range of rides; from flat coastal family rides, to technical, hilly, mountain bike rides with lots of road and gravel riding in between.

In addition to the main road networks, there are numerous gravel roads and forest tracks scattered throughout the foothills and rural regions. These paths are well-suited for those who enjoy off-road cycling and offer an adventurous alternative to the more obvious road cycling routes.

How can you incorporate Viana into a Northern Portugal cycling tour?

We stayed at FeelViana Sport Hotel, just outside Viana do Castelo, in March, as part of a multi-base family cycling holiday in Northern Portugal. We spent four nights at FeelViana Sport Hotel, which preceded three nights in the Douro Valley.

On the transition day we enjoyed a day of sightseeing in fabulous Porto.

Watch this space for our next article which will share more about our itinerary!

A young cyclist taming a bull in Ponte de Lima

Taming a bull in Ponte de Lima

What is Viana do Castelo like?

Viana do Castelo is the main hub for the Viana region and the obvious place to base yourself. It’s a great size of town for cyclists, with plenty of shops, restaurants and bars but not so big that it’s a big hassle getting in and out of it.

It’s one of those spots in Northern Portugal that still feels authentic and untouched, but has everything you want for an amazing trip, especially if you’re into cycling or love being outdoors.

Scenery

First off, the setting is stunning. You’ve got the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Serra de Arga mountains on the other, with the Lima River flowing right through the town. That means you can ride along wild, windswept beaches one day and be climbing through pine forests and ancient stone villages the next. And it’s not just about the views – the roads are quiet, the trails are varied, and it feels like every corner you turn leads to something unexpected.

Vibes

The town itself is beautiful, with cobbled streets, tiled buildings, and a laid-back vibe that makes you want to slow down. There’s real history here, too – gothic churches, shipyards, and hilltop sanctuaries with panoramic views. The food is also excellent, with fresh seafood straight from the ocean, proper Portuguese pastries, and local vinho verde wine that’s crisp and perfect after a ride.

Authenticity

The town feels very genuine it feels. It’s not flashy or overdone. People are friendly, the cafés are full of locals, and it hasn’t been taken over by mass tourism. You get the sense that you’re seeing the real Portugal.

We stayed at the FeelViana Sport Hotel, which is just south of Viana. More on the hotel below.

What are the cycling routes like around Viana?

The ride choices from Viana do Castelo (and FeelViana Sport Hotel) focus around the following options:

  • North/south along the coast – flat riding, either gravel or road
  • Inland through the Serra de Arga range of hills that run parallel with the sea – hilly, either gravel or road
  • Along the Lima River valley – flat for gravel riders, hilly for road

The routes we rode

We had three days riding and piled in six rides in total; two of us rode the gravel routes, two on the road routes.

Notes:

  • As this was a family holiday, we each had a child with us; but these routes are not typical family friendly cycling routes. They’re suitable for experienced riders, though you might want to add some more distance to the Santa Luzia and Atlantic Coast South gravel routes if you like – and this can easily be done as explained in the ride guides.
  • None of the three road rides below include the climb to Santa Luzia. This is a cobbled climb but the cobbles are in pretty good condition and the views are phenomenal. Consider adding it if you are on a road bike and are up to it!
Rides

Family cycling routes in/around Viana

The coastal paths are the best bet for classic family cycling routes; though these will need to be out and back rides. Check out section 3 of the Santa Luzia ride and Atlantic Coast south route notes above. Cycling part of the Lima Riverbanks ride could also be an option.

If staying at the FeelViana Sport Hotel, note that you’re unlikely to want to cycle over the Pont Eiffel bridge into Viana do Castelo with your kids. We’re told there is a ferry option during summer. Alternatively, head south from the hotel. Or, if you hired a car to get to the hotel, you could drive with your bikes to the start of the route.

Long distance cycling routes in/around Viana

The main long distance routes in the region are:

Ecovia do Litoral Norte

This is a regional cycling route in northern Portugal. It runs alongs the coast of the Minho region (for example from Viana do Castelo to Esposende, and beyond). This ecovia is also part of EuroVelo 1, also known as the Atlantic Coast Route, which spans from Norway to Portugal. However, when we visited, unless you’d spent a lot of time studying the EuroVelo website, you wouldn’t know you were on EuroVelo 1 as you rode the coast route, since all the signposts seem to be for the Ecovia.

Camino Portuguese

This is a famous long distance route from Lisbon to Porto. It’s most famous for being an ancient hiking route for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. However, many parts are great on a gravel or a mountain bike. You can also plan your route so that it’s feasible to ride on a road or touring bike; you just need to avoid the technical sections.

Be aware that there is the Camino Portuguese coastal and inland routes. Our rides above sample sections of both!

Looking to ride the full Camino Portuguese route? Don’t miss this in-depth guide.

Ecovia do Rio Lima

The Ecovia follows the River Lima for around 70 kilometres, linking the towns of Viana do Castelo, Ponte de Lima, Ponte da Barca and Arcos de Valdevez. We only rode between Viana and Ponte de Lima (see route above) but it was lovely. You ride on quiet trails beside the river, past green meadows and old fishing spots. The area is part of the Natura 2000 Network. Some parts sit within the Peneda-Gerês National Park, others are part of a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve.

What are the best hotel options for cyclists?

Viana has a good range of hotels; check out more here. 

FeelViana Sport Hotel

We were guests of FeelViana Sport Hotel, a four-star hotel built in 2017 within pine forest, just a couple of hundred metres by boardwalk to Cabedelo beach on the Atlantic Ocean. The hotel is just under four kilometres from the old centre of Viana do Castelo and is well equipped for cyclists, water and wind sport enthusiasts.

It’s a lovely spot – and the pro teams seem to agree. Groupama, Quickstep Soudal, Movistar and Uno-X, stayed at the hotel in February, because they were participating in the Gran Camiño Event (more on this below) which started in Portugal in 2025. They stayed before the event started and then during the first stage and second stage.

Things we loved

Hotel

  • The hotel occupies a calm, well-thought out site, with 55 rooms offering flexible accommodation. Pick between standard rooms, junior suites, suites and bungalows. We stayed in a comfortable bungalow with master room and living room with sofa bed for the kids.
  • Great contemporary architecture, very much built around nature, with wood cladding inside and out and all the windows opening into woodland.
  • Breakfast – a self-service affair but with cooked breakfast options available. An early packed breakfast option is available for cyclists; we didn’t try it but wonder if it could ever be as good as the full breakfast service!
  • Dinner – we ate in the restaurant each night and thought the food was excellent; hearty portions of a range of modern European and Portuguese classics, such as huevos rotas, steak tartar, salmon tagliatelle and sea bass.
  • All day food and drinks available – come back from a ride at 3pm and can’t wait until dinner? The bar within the hotel serves food all day; cyclist friendly snacks such as protein shakes and avocado toast are there to fill the gap. There’s also the outside lounge and bar and beach bar for summer months.

 

Bike services

  • Well-equipped bike centre, with friendly helpful staff who we found were happy and obliging.
  • Bike hire – they have a sizeable fleet of good quality Scott bikes, which they sell on every year to ensure their rentals remain in top repair. They offer everything from balance bikes for the tiniest of kids to high-end road bikes, as well as e-city and e-gravel bikes, kid’s bikes and bike trailers. We bought two of our own bikes and hired two Scott Solace Grave eRIDE 30 2025 bikes.
  • Accessory hire – GPS, baby seats and bike trailers are available for hire.
  • Guiding – you can book a guide to ride with you and show you the area.
  • Bike repair – there’s a well-equipped bike servicing area with on-site mechanics available to assist.
  • Bike van and trailer – perfect for transfers or lifts to help you explore further afield; it’s feasible to use the hotel as a base but spend a couple of days in the Douro Valley for example.
  • Emergency pick up – if you or your bike break down, the hotel will either come and pick you both up or arrange a taxi to do the same.
  • Bike parking – the bike parking room is nicely fitted out, with bike tools, pump, bike racks and charging points. It’s also got pin security; no entrance without the pin code. The hotel publishes a useful route map, QR codes for routes and can also provide routes on a Garmin for you to borrow.
  • Pump track – there’s a pump track under the hotel, perfect for kids or those that love BMX!

Other services

  • The wellness area is a tranquil, well thought out space with a range of services including gym, heated indoor pool, sauna and steam bath. Other paid services are also available including massages, treatments and yoga lessons.
  • The Water Centre offers kitesurfing, windsurfing, wind foiling, surf and SUP available. The Wake Park has e-foil and cable wakeboarding on offer.
  • Kids club is available as well as babysitting services.
  • For groups, there’s a group yoga room within the spa and for corporate groups, there’s also a business centre.
  • The beach is a short stroll out of a side entrance of the hotel, through pine woodland and across the dunes to the wide, open beach. The beach bar wasn’t open but I imagine it would be a great spot for a sundowner in summer!

Things to be aware of

  • Kids aren’t allowed in the indoor pool area after 4pm. The outside pool wasn’t open in March; it’s a little diminutive, but the sea is just a few metres away!
  • You’ll need to cross the famous Pont Eiffel bridge into Viana do Castelo if you want to ride north from the hotel. It’s 400metres long and cars are restricted to 30kph with no passing permitted.
  • There are a host of additional services available, with everything from a kids club and babysitting to water sports on offer – but note the additional charges.

Are there places for bike hire/bike shops in Viana?

The number of bike shops in Viana shows how popular cycling is with locals as well as visitors.

FeelViana Sport Hotel

We used the hotel’s Scott e-gravel bikes which felt new and in excellent condition. We were guests, but bike hire is available to guests and non guests of the hotel. Check out the details of the wide range of additional services they also offer, details above.

Road, MTB, gravel and touring bikes are available as well as MTB, gravel and touring e-bikes. You can hire for a half day upwards. BMX bikes are also available for the pump track. The hotel has around 70 bikes in their fleet.

Contact the hotel for more details.

Other options

  • ViaBike – Rua das Flores nº177, Darque, Portugal
  • Viana Cycles- Rua da Argaçosa nº 885, Viana do Castelo, Portugal
  • Rui Lavarinhas Lda – Estr. da Papanata 189, 4900-470 Viana do Castelo, Portugal
  • Stressoff – Estrada da Papanata, Viana do Castelo, Portugal
  • Venimar – Rua Paula Ferreira 24, 4900-862 C, Viana do Castelo, Portugal

Are any cycling events held in Viana?

Viana Granfondo is held annually, typically in March, but check the website for details.

O Gran Camiño is an annual pro race which follows the Camino de Santiago routes to Santiago. In 2025 it started in Portugal, near Viana, to highlight the social, cultural and, above all, sporting links between Portugal and Spain.

What is the best time of year to go on a cycling trip to Viana?

You can cycle the Viana region at any time of year, but the best time to go on a cycling trip to Viana do Castelo is spring (mid-March to June) and early autumn (September to October). Here’s why:

Spring (mid-March to June)

  • Great riding temperatures: Typically, between 15°C and 25°C — perfect for long rides without overheating. You might also feel more tempted to enjoy a dip in the sea at this time of year.
  • Blooming landscapes: You’ll enjoy lush greenery, wildflowers, and beautiful coastal views.
  • Longer daylight hours: The days get longer so there’s more time to ride and explore.
  • Less crowded: This time of year is popular with locals in the know, but much quieter than the peak summer months.

Autumn (September and October)

  • Warm but not hot: Similar to spring, with pleasant riding conditions.
  • Harvest season: Enjoy local wine, fresh produce, and festivals.

Other times of year

November to mid March can be absolutely great for cyclists, but be aware you might hit the odd few days of rain and you’re unlikely to be riding in shorts and short sleeve jerseys.

July and August: temperatures can exceed 30°C, especially inland — less ideal for climbing though the Atlantic breeze keeps coastal areas cooler even in warmer months. Coastal routes and towns get more crowded.

A cyclist admiring a lemon tree in northern portugal

Lemon trees abound in Northern Portugal in March

Any tips for riding in Viana do Castelo?

Check out our tips for cycling in Portugal.

Start early in the day

Viana do Castelo sits on the Atlantic coastline, which means afternoon sea breezes can be strong, especially in summer. If you’re planning a long ride or heading south along the coast, it’s best to leave early to avoid too much wind. Also be aware that it can be a few degrees warmer inland (like Ponte de Lima) than on the coast.

If you’re heading north, another reason to start early is that you can avoid riding with too much traffic across the Eiffel Bridge (Ponte Eiffel); it’s pretty but narrow and links the centre of Viana with the south and west.

Check out the pastelarias

Portuguese cafés (pastelarias) are every cyclist’s dream – cheap, friendly, and full of tasty fuel. Don’t miss out on a pastel de nata, local bread with cheese, or a galão (milky coffee). You’ll never go hungry. In particular, cyclists will love Peloton Cycling Cafe in the centre of Viana do Castelo.

Peloton cafe in Viano do Castelo

Peloton cafe in Viano do Castelo

Ride with the locals

Want to connect with other riders? Feelviana Sport Hotel offers social group rides every Sunday morning at 9am. There’s no charge and the rides are usually around 50 to 80 kilometres.

Don’t miss the view from Santa Luzia

Even if you can’t face the ride up to Santa Luzia (more info here), you don’t have to miss out. There’s a funicular that goes up to the top of the hill and provides a very impressive view across the coast, town and Lima River.

A cyclist admiring the views over Santa Luzia

On the way up to Santa Luzia, with views over Viana and Cabedelo beach

Check out local festivals – especially Romaria da Senhora d’Agonia

If you’re visiting in August, the town bursts into colour for its biggest celebration, Romaria da Senhora d’Agonia. Expect flower carpets, parades, fireworks, and traditional dress. It’s one of the best folk festivals in Portugal and a unique way to experience Viana’s deep-rooted traditions. Find out more here.

Learn a few words of Portuguese – they go a long way

Viana is not as tourist-heavy as Porto or Lisbon. While many people speak English, a few polite words in Portuguese (like obrigado for thank you or bom dia for good morning) are always appreciated and often met with a smile.

A cafe in in northern portugal

Cafés in Ponte de Lima – this is one of the more touristy towns but the staff at the restaurant we picked didn’t speak English, so it would have been handy to know a little more Portuguese!

How to get to Viana do Castelo?

Viana do Castelo, in the North of Portugal, is accessible from Porto airport and also from the Spanish airport of Vigo. Both are less than 50 minutes’ drive.

What next?

We had a fantastic time in this corner of Northern Portugal and would certainly recommend it to friends. For those that want to check out more resources to help them plan their Portugal cycling holiday, read on!

 

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Clare Dewey

Clare Dewey is a cyclist with a passion for travel. She set up epicroadrides.com in 2018 to help make it easy for cyclists to explore the world by bike. Today her mission is still inspiring cyclists to discover new places on two wheels - and doing what she can to make sure they have the best possible time while they're there. Clare has visited 50+ destinations around the world, many of them by bike.

Want to connect with Clare? Find her over on LinkedIn.

Last Reviewed: 12 May 2025

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