Lac de Derborence, Switzerland: the road to nowhere

Highlights

The two best bits of this top Swiss cycling climb are, in our opinion:

• The five kilometre stretch after Avens before the forest, where the road hugs the cliffs and you get views down to the valley and imposing waterfalls on the other side of the valley.
• Taking a moment to relax, and perhaps have a spot of lunch, at the lovely Refuge du Lac de Derborence.

Notes

Statistics

From Pont-de-la-Morge, RWGPS shows us a 17 kilometre climb, with 5.8% average gradient (16.1% max).

Pont-de-la-Morge to Aven

The first part of the climb from Pont-de-la-Morge to Aven is on a road through vineyards and urban areas; there are the “usual” spectacular valley views but the road gets a bit of traffic.

Aven to the forest

It’s after you leave Aven that the drama really unfolds.

The gradient flattens out and for the next five or six kilometres you pick up the La Lizerne river valley. With the river far beneath you, you head off into the gorge. The road feels like it’s been cut right into the rock face itself; it’s narrow, craggy and twists and turns around the cliffs.

There are two long tunnels within this stretch. Fortunately, the tunnels have been built with windows, so while the tunnel is not lit, it’s also not pitch black. Of course, you’ll want your sunglasses off for the tunnels.

Forest to Lac de Derborence

Around four kilometres from the lake, the road starts to climb again, this time through low forest.

Bear left at the junction and you arrive in the gravel strewn car park. Head on through it and you’ll find the remote outpost of the Refuge du Lac de Derborence, by the side of a bluey-greeny lake.

It’s a tranquil spot and the perfect place for a spot of lunch.

The return

The return from the lake to the valley is fun; as with the climb, there may be rocks and debris on the road. Bear in mind you’re pretty remote here and the road is narrow with plenty of blind corners, so it’s not somewhere to take risks.

Café stops

After you leave the valley, the Refuge du Lac de Derborence at the lake is the next place to refuel. If you’re relying on it for food and drink, do check opening times in advance.

The refuge also has a lovely water fountain. See below!

Refilling up a bottle at Lac de Derborence; water fountains are numerous in Switzerland

Accommodation

We stayed at the Hotel Bristol in Verbier.

You can find out more about our stay in our main guide to cycling Verbier and Val de Bagnes.

There are lots of hotels in Verbier to choose from.

Tips

Make sure you read the tips section of our Verbier cycling guide. These all apply to this ride.

Check the current status of the road to Derborence before setting out. Access is seasonal and can also be affected by weather, maintenance and temporary closures.

Watch out for rocks and gravel on the roads. You are very remote here.

Keep an ear (and eyes!) open for the public bus and other vehicles. The road is narrow, the tunnels are long and you need to take care.

A quick history (and geography) lesson

In 1714 and 1749, two huge landslides hit the area. At that time, people thought these landslides were the work of the devil, so they started calling the mountains Diablerets, which means Devils Mountains.

The landslides left behind 100-metre-high piles of rubble that blocked the flow of water and created a lake. This lake was believed to be cursed, so it was left untouched for a long time, allowing nature to take over again.

Nowadays, the Derborence Valley, where the lake is located, is protected as a nature reserve. It’s home to an old forest that grew on top of the landslide debris, which is particularly valuable.

What’s next?

Lac de Derborence is a memorable climb for its narrow gorge roads, rock-cut tunnels, waterfalls and peaceful lakeside finish. If you’re riding in Valais, it’s well worth adding to your route plans.

Have you cycled Lac de Derborence before? We’d love to hear from you! Leave us a comment below.

Looking for more stunning cycling routes in Switzerland’s Valais? Don’t miss:

• Croix de Coeur and Col du Lein
• Planches, Petit Forclaz, Champex Lac
• La Fouly
• Mauvoisin Dam
• Switzerland’s best cycling routes

Clare Dewey is a cyclist with a passion for travel. She set up epicroadrides.com in 2018 to help make it easy for cyclists to explore the world by bike. Today her mission is still inspiring cyclists to discover new places on two wheels - and doing what she can to make sure they have the best possible time while they're there. Clare has visited 50+ destinations around the world, many of them by bike.

Want to connect with Clare? Find her over on LinkedIn.