Shimanami Kaido cycling route – what you need to know

1. Overview of the Shimanami Kaido cycling route

The Shimanami Kaido is a cycling route across Japan’s Setouchi (Seto) Inland Sea. Connecting the main island of Honshu with the southern island of Shikoku, the route is famous for its teal waters, stunning bridges, fresh seafood and citrus groves. It’s also famous for the Naruto whirlpools that form in the current.

It’s an easy DIY bike trip while you’re in Japan because it’s very well signposted (more on that below).

Check out the Shimanami Kaido route on Strava here for the classic route or here for the route I prefer.

You can also find these on RideWithGPS here (classic) and here (Bike Tour Japan preferred route).

 

2. Highlights of the Shimanami Kaido bike route

Three big highlights of the route are the Senkoji Temple, the Kosanji Temple Complex and the Kurushima Kaikyo Ohashi Bridge.

Senkoji Temple

The Senkoji Temple rests on the hill behind the town of Onomichi where the Shimanami Kaido begins. It’s a beautiful walk or bike up the backside of the hill. It takes you to a beautiful Buddhist temple nestled in the rocks. Just above the temple is a large observation deck with sweeping views of the Onomichi Strait and the many islands of the Seto Inland Sea.

Kosanji Temple Complex

The Kosanji Temple Complex is one of a kind. More a museum than a temple, the Kosanji offers visitors a chance to go on a journey of redemption. Weave through the dark caves of hell, and come out to the marble stairs to heaven. Be sure to visit with a guide or read up on this before arriving to really get the most out of this unique experience.

Kurushima Kaikyo Ohashi

Last, the Kurushima Kaikyo Ohashi (Ohashi means big bridge) is the second longest suspension bridge in Japan. Besides having a dedicated cycling lane separate from the cars, this bridge also offers amazing views of the ocean below where Naruto whirlpools regularly form. Being the final bridge, there is a great observation deck just after you cross where you can soak in the views of your accomplishments.

 

3. Information on the Shimanami Kaido bikeway

Main route

The main route of the Shimanami Kaido cycling road is designated by blue arrows painted on the ground. At approximately 70km in length, this is the shortest and easiest route of the Kaido.

Beyond the main “blue line route” there are many additional routes you can take by weaving around the different islands you cross; the whole route actually consists of more than 250 kilometres of cycle routes. These maps might be useful.

How long does it take?

While the main route takes most amateur cyclists one full day, more seasoned cyclists will complete it in around four hours, assuming minimal stopping.

That said, the main route is mostly on roads with bike arrows or adjacent lanes, and much of the route has pylons that stop cars from entering areas for cyclists only. Experienced cyclists used to riding at speeds in excess of 25kph, should keep an eye out for road furniture as it is very prevalent here (and beware, it can get a little frustrating so if you want to ride fast this might not be the best route for you).

Best direction

While you can ride the Kaido either way, our favourite way to ride the route is from North to South, from Onomichi to Imabari. This is because you can end your ride by crossing the longest bridge: the Kurushima Kaikyo Oohashi. Plus, this is the perfect spot for a glorious view and photo op of all you’ve accomplished from the adjacent observation deck.

Getting back to the start

Read the info below for details of how to do this.

 

4. Things to do along the Shimanami Kaido cycle route

Besides the highlights above, those interested in more temples and Japanese history should check out the Oyamazumi Shrine and Museum.

The local delicacy is Okonomiyaki, a savoury pancake of noodles, cabbage and seafood. There are plenty of great shops on each island serving okonomiyaki, and you can also find it in Onomichi and Imabari.

For those who love ice cream, Dolce Ice Cream on Ikuchijima Island has great local citrus gelato!

 

5. Best bikes to ride the Shimanami Kaido

Really any bike can handle the main route – take your pick from road bikes, mountain bikes or electric bikes. Most of the climbs up to the bridges are very gentle, thanks to the dedicated bike paths.

That said, if you want to explore off the main route I would recommend a bike with good climbing gears. While the main routes are very flat, the Shimanami islands have tons of short steep climbs on the auxiliary routes.

 

6. Shimanami Kaido bike rental

For bicycle rentals, both Onomichi and Imabari have various options for rental stations with everything from hybrid to road, and even some e-bikes.

Points to note:

• Note that hybrid bikes are known as “cross bikes” in Japan.
• If you’re hiring a bike from a shop at the start of your ride, make sure you’ve considered how you’ll return it! Some shops offer one-way rental which can be a useful option. Check before you book and make sure you understand the terms of your one-way rental if you go for that (e.g. some shops only allow one way rentals on particular bikes and return has to be in a particular place).
• Most Shimanami rental bikes are low to mid range, so if you want something nicer you are best of bringing your bike from home, joining a group tour, or renting from Tokyo/Osaka and bringing it down yourself.

 

Onomichi Bike Rental Shops

• The Red Bicycles independent shop offering road and e-bikes, one-way rentals aren’t available but multi-day are, can reserve online
• Onomichi Port Bikes – a public service that’s at the cheaper end, offer one-way rentals and multi-day rentals, can reserve online
• Giant Store – for higher end options, showers are available in the building, offer one-way rentals and multi-day rentals, can reserve online

Imabari Bike Rental Shops

• Imabari Port Bikes – at the cheaper end, offer one-way rentals and multi-day rentals
• Giant Store – for higher end options as above

7. Shimanami Kaido accommodation for cyclists

For those looking to do the ride in one day, the Onomichi U2 Hotel is a great choice. It’s a cycling themed hotel with Japanese flair and western amenities, located by the start of the route in Onomichi. It’s also not far from the bus station.

Those who want to spend more time on the scenic islands can find a full range of stays: hostels, guesthouses, hotels, and ryokans are available.

For those specifically seeking traditional ryokan experiences, about half way across the Kaido is Fujimien Ryokan, with local seafood kaiseki meals and ocean views from the rooms.

For a bike-themed stay, the I-Link Hostel & Cafe Shimanami is a great place to meet fellow cyclists and rest after a long day of cycling.

 

8. Practicalities to help plan your Shimanami Kaido trip

Mechanical assistance

There are plenty of cycling stations throughout the main route, though riders should be comfortable with basic mechanics such as changing a flat or swapping brake pads. Bike shops are few and far between once you are on the islands.

Shimanami Kaido luggage forwarding

For those doing a multi-day trip, you can either leave your luggage in storage at the train station and pick it up once you finish, or use Yamato shipping service to send it along to a future hotel. That said, shipping takes two days, so plan accordingly.

Food

There are many restaurants and cafes along the main route thanks to the increasing popularity of the region for cycle tourism. However, we recommend keeping some snacks and water on hand, and convenience stores are a bit more sparse: approximately every 15-20km.

If you have special dietary requirements, one of the better options to go for is the conbini (as many have English on the packaging). However you’ll need to read and/or speak some Japanese to make the most of Japan’s food. In particular, fish broth (known as “dashi”) makes its way into most meals…

Where to start the Shimanami cycleway

You can start from either Onomichi City or Imabari City, but we recommend starting in Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture.

Getting to the start

• If you are coming from any big city in Japan, the JR Rail is likely to be the easiest and fastest option. If you’re starting at Onomichi, Onomichi station is well placed.
• If you are coming from Osaka, another option is the ferry from Osaka’s Nanko port to Ehime’s Toyo port just south of Imabari (but see the note below regarding the uncertainties over ferries and need to check the situation on the ground).
• If you are bringing your own bike and you want to take it on a train it must be in a bike bag. There are specific lightweight ones you can buy in Japan, or you can use a bike travel case like you would use to take a bike on a plane.

Getting back again

Your options for getting back at the end of the ride are either to ride back (if you’ve got the energy!) or to get the bus back. The express bus runs roughly every hour from 7am to 7pm and you should be able to put your bike on the bus (but check before you go!). Google Maps should be able to give you the necessary information on schedules and you can doublecheck with your accommodation too.

Note that while there are ferries between the islands, the timetables and services are still in a state of uncertainty post Covid. Unpredictable weather also affects the timetables.

If you’re travelling self-supported and using public transport, you’ll want to check the current situation at the time you travel and your accommodation or local businesses might be able to help with this. Using public transport is definitely doable, but to get accurate current information, you’ll likely find yourself needing to speak Japanese or be comfortable relying on Google Translate to ask the locals.

Riding part of the Shimanami Kaido route

If you want to ride less than the whole Onomichi to Imabari route, your options for returning are either to cycle back the way you came or get the bus. You can use Google Maps to check bus stops between Onomichi Station and Imabari Station.

If you’re looking to ride the whole route but in two sections, the towns of Setoda, Omishima or Hakata are roughly halfway so make good overnight stops.

9. Tips for getting the most out of your Shimanami cycling trip

Tolls

You won’t have any tolls for the bridges, but the first ferry across the strait from Onomichi to the first island will cost you and your bike 110 yen to cross.

Do you need cash?

While the Japanese government has been pushing businesses to accept credit cards, the adaptation is not consistent across Japan and many businesses still only transact in cash.

Therefore, it is best, as always when traveling in Japan, to carry cash with you to any restaurant or hotel unless you have clarified ahead of time that they take cards.

The amount to carry each day will vary based on your expected budget, but in general it is good to carry around two to three days’ worth of cash in case you stumble upon a great souvenir.

Bike etiquette

Many shops and hotels will have bike racks along the Kaido. That said, if you do not immediately see one, always be sure to ask where it is best to park your trusty steed.

In Japan, parking, and space for that matter, is always very limited so you want to make sure you are not accidentally parking your bike on the neighbours’ lawn or storefront.

Best time of year

The weather is such that you can cycle the Kaido during any month of the year.

However, the best months to ride the Shimanami Kaido are mid- October through December, and March through May. The reason for that is that summer is the rainy season when most of the precipitation occurs.

The winter months of January and February are the driest months, often with warm sunny days, but very cold wind.

Our packing list for Japan that’s broken down by the time of year may be useful (here)!

National holidays and weekends

Japan is a country that has lots of National Holidays. In these periods, nearly everybody except restaurant owners has the day off, so travelling during these holidays can be very crowded.

Aside from that, you will certainly see more traffic and cyclists on the weekends, and more hotels booked up, but nothing like a week-long national holiday such as Golden Week. It’s also a popular place to see the cherry blossoms in spring.

Is it worth spending time in the towns at the start/end of the route?

I would definitely recommend spending time in Onomichi before you depart or after you get back. The town has undergone a massive transformation since I first visited back in 2016 and there are lots of great little cafes, restaurants and shops to check out in town.

For those looking to travel further once on Shikoku Island, I would recommend heading to Matsuyama City. Another day’s cycle from the finish of the Kaido Imabari, Matsuyama is home to the famous Dogo Onsen and a beautiful castle.

Do you need to do a Shimanami Kaido bike tour?

I don’t think anyone needs a tour to do the Shimanami Kaido. The route is very well labelled, resources are plentiful, and there is lots of support along the way.

That said, for those looking to explore beyond the blue line, see more off the beaten track, interact and converse more with the locals, and make a week-long adventure out of it, a guided tour is a great way to make the most of your time in Japan. Here’s our 8 day Shimanami Kaido tour for reference.

10. Things to be aware of

The landscape

When you hear the route is through the islands of Japan’s inland sea, you might immediately think of sandy beaches. However, in reality most of the time it’s concrete shoreline and retaining walls rather than natural beaches. That’s because this part of Japan is in a battle with the elements and the concrete is needed as a defence against the sea. There are other parts of Japan that offer more natural beauty; read our guide here.

Do you need to be able to speak Japanese?

Certainly not, though it won’t hurt to know a few key phrases. The route is marked in English as well as Japanese so you will have no trouble navigating if you speak English.

However, not all restaurants, cafes, and hotels along the route will have English speakers. Many have the bare basics to help you order or check in, but you will certainly get some smiles if you know a few simple words like konnichiwa, arigatou gozaimasu, and sumimasen, (hello, thank you, and excuse me).

If you are riding self-supported and need to use public transit as part of your trip, do be aware that you are likely to need to know some Japanese or be comfortable relying on Google Translate to ask locals for information.

Traffic/cycling rules

If you are coming from the UK, you will already be used to riding on the left side of the road.

Most of the signs, such as speed limit signs, and no parking signs will look very familiar.

The one big triangular exception is the Japanese stop sign. An upside-down red triangle with 止まれ (read To-ma-re, or stop), this sign is unique to Japan and an essential one to learn before hopping on a bike.

Besides that, it is expected of cyclists to keep to the left third of the lane when in traffic, and to pull off to let faster vehicles by when possible if they are causing a queue behind them.

Train track crossings are another unique experience in Japan. At crossings, you are expected to come to a complete stop, check both ways, make sure the vehicle in front of you has cleared the tracks and there is enough room for you to do so, then pass. You will see all the cars doing the same; so as with most things in Japan, do as the locals do.

Finally, when you come across a red light, you must stop and stay stopped until it is green. This means no Left on Red (or Right on Red for the right-side driving countries).

There’s more information on cycling rules in our guide to cycling in Japan.

Toilets

There are plenty of rest stops along the route. Also, any convenience store will be happy to let you use their toilet with a simple purchase of an item. A great chance to load up on snacks!

Other transport along the Shimanami Kaido – walking/buses/cars/ferries

For those looking to really explore there are countless ferries that connect the many islands of the Seto inland Sea of Japan. You can find ferry routes and time tables online, but in general most ferries run about every hour to half hour depending on the distance.

Other than that, there is a bus that connects Onomichi to Imabari and stops at least once on each island. This is a great resource for those that need to end early or run out of daylight and need to get to their destination for the evening.

Rain

Most of Japan has a very wet climate, and the Seto Inland Sea is no exception. Due to being an island nation, on most days, weather can move in quickly in the area, so we always advise riders to be ready for rain.

There’s more information on the weather in Japan in our main guide.

 

Big thanks to Rob for sharing so much useful information on the Shimanami Kaido cycling route.

Looking for a self guided cycling tour in Japan? Read this article. Looking for a guided ride on Shikoku island? Read this.